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标题: The Rudiments of Alpine [打印本页]

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-15 05:24
标题: The Rudiments of Alpine
The Rudiments of Alpine
Below is online material that supplements our Alpine Workshops and Alpine 101 training.

Content has been Compiled, Inspected, Approved and Recommended by 潘世博.

Great Alpine is waiting for you! 8)

Photo: Climbers approaching standard Colman-Deming Glacier route on mount Baker, WA (3,286 m). Taken from North Ridge on Jul-24 2010.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-15 05:25
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

Climbing Fundamentals
Basic Safety System
1.  Fall Factor
2. How to Break Nylon & Dyneema® Slings [Vid]

Knots
1. Figure 8
2. Prussik Knot
3. Double Fisherman's Knot
4. Clove hitch
5. Munter hitch
6.  Bowline Knot  + variation
7.  Girth hitch
8.  Butterfly Knot
9. Overhand Knot
10. Munter Mule + variation
11. Slip Knot
12. Water Knot

Belaying
Top Rope and Lowering
Belaying the Leader
Escaping the Belay
Belaying second off anchor

Rapelling
Knots for Rappelling
Passing the Knot on Rappel

Anchors
Gear and Gear Placement

Rock Protection
Pitons

Rock climbing
Lead Fall

Snow & Ice Climbing
Snow Travel and Climbing
Self-Arrest
How to ice-axe self arrest
Using crampons
Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads

Emergency Prevention and Response
Alpine Rescue / Rescue From Technical Terrain
3:1 (Z) pulley system
5:1 Pulley System with a Petzl Reverso
Double Mariner Hauling Kit
Hauling: Counting Tensions & Estimating System Efficiency

Equipment
Carabiners
Harness
Helmet
Petzl Reverso (3) Belay Device
TIBLOC
Crampons
Avalanche transceiver Tracker DTS

Learning from Mistakes
1. British climber fall from Snowdon
2. The Beckoning Silence
3. Search suspended for hiker missing near Chilliwack.
4. NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS
5. A New Unwedded Widow's Journey

Miscellaneous

Appendix
1. Top ten technical skills of modern Alpine Climber
2. Glossary of climbing terms
3. Video playlist of supporting material

Other
1. Ammon McNeely
2. Alex Honnold

Link to this topic: http://goo.gl/J0UhVY

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-15 05:26
标题: Figure 8 Knot
Figure 8 Knot

When to Use: attaching the rope to a sit harness

https://www.youtube.com/v/tFffbkXSgNI?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
http://www.singingrock.com/attaching-the-rope-to-a-sit-harness

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-15 05:27
标题: Prussik Knot
Prussik Knot

When to Use: as a backup for rappelling, as a ratchet in rescue systems, in (crevasse) hauling, climbing the rope, escaping belay, passing the knot

https://www.youtube.com/v/P0d8-Fxdx8Y?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
http://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php?Categ=climbing

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-15 06:32
标题: Rock Climbing Basics: Toprope Belay Technique
Rock Climbing Basics: Toprope Belay Technique

https://www.youtube.com/v/CFIz4cBFVro?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-15 09:13
Double Fisherman's Knot

When to Use: to join two ropes together

https://www.youtube.com/v/O6oJwedcb18?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_fisherman%27s_knot

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-15 09:35
标题: Helmet
Helmet

Helmets are a crucial piece of safety equipment for a variety of vertical activities. They protect the head against falling objects and against impacts with fixed objects - if the climber's head strikes the cliff in a fall, for example.

https://www.youtube.com/v/MJhngt_wS2Y?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock-climbing_equipment#Helmet

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 04:48
Clove Hitch

When to Use: to tie in to the anchor on multipitch

https://www.youtube.com/v/THxt73kE_N8?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clove_hitch

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 05:03
Munter hitch

When to Use: to belay, to rappel

https://www.youtube.com/v/02RrSIRl_rQ?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munter_hitch

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 06:45
标题: Fall Factor
About Fall Factor

https://www.youtube.com/v/GTC0dNG4Ygg?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fall_factor

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 08:30
标题: self arrest
Ice axe arrest / self arrest

"Self-arrest is a mountaineering related maneuver in which a climber who has fallen and is sliding down a snow or ice slope arrests (stops) the slide by himself or herself without recourse to a rope or other belay system." - Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills

https://www.youtube.com/v/94QFImjdEAo?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-arrest

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 12:14
5. Emergency Prevention and Response / Alpine Rescue / Rescue From Technical Terrain

3:1 (Z) Pulley System

https://www.youtube.com/v/y6gz6WaO1_0?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z-drag

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 15:13
Bowline Knot
The bowline is sometimes referred as King of the knots because of its importance.

When to Use: to form a fixed loop at the end of a rope

https://www.youtube.com/v/hIdsTZTUl6E?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowline

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 15:44
Girth hitch
A simple and useful knotted structure, the knot has been known since at least the first century when described by Greek physician Heraklas in a monograph on surgical knots and slings.

When to Use: to attach a rope to an object

https://www.youtube.com/v/WqQPHmUgNSA?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cow_hitch

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 15:50
标题: Butterfly Knot
Butterfly Knot

When to Use: to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope

https://www.youtube.com/v/IVyu_Afnqu4?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_loop

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 18:06
Overhand Knot
The overhand knot is one of the most fundamental knots and forms the basis of many others.

When to Use: to prevent the end of a rope from unraveling

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overhand_knot

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 18:20
How to belay the leader with a REVERSO

https://www.youtube.com/v/ymJb6tW5_BE?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belaying
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/belaying-leader-in-rock-climbing

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-16 19:06
标题: Petzl Reverso
Petzl Reverso (3) Belay Device

A Reverso is a belay device developed and patented by Petzl, used for example in rock-climbing and other activities which involves rope-work. Another version of this device is the Reversino, intended for use with thinner ropes.

https://www.youtube.com/v/-Ij9Es5QRY4?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/t ... port/B01-TIBLOC.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reverso

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-17 05:17
标题: Escaping the Belay
Escaping the Belay

https://www.youtube.com/v/a81LC0wjO0k?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-18 19:10
Munter Mule Knot

When to use: tying off a climber.

https://www.youtube.com/v/XkIHoJBzECs?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-19 05:12
Slip Knot

When to use: as a temporary stopper knot to lock belay/rappel

https://www.youtube.com/v/bxnkth1n_2A?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
http://www.animatedknots.com/slip/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog..

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-19 05:20
TIBLOC

Compact emergency ascender.

In a bind, this ultra-lightweight ascender can be used to build hauling systems or as a Prusik-replacement in self-rescue situations.

Reference
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/multi-purpose-ascenders/tibloc
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/t ... port/B01-TIBLOC.pdf
Rudiments of Alpine. Directory

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-20 05:29
标题: Ten most essential technical skills of Alpine Climber
Top ten technical skills of modern Alpine Climber

Here: http://goo.gl/NTzDeP

References
Rudiments of Alpine. Directory

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-21 09:35
标题: Water Knot
Water Knot

When to use: to join two ends of webbing together, for instance when making a sling.

https://www.youtube.com/v/7YsYhGn4oWo?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_knot
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-22 04:38
Climbing harness

Use: secures a person to a rope or an anchor point.

https://www.youtube.com/v/6yZ9Muds8tA?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climbing_harness
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-22 21:19
Belaying second off anchor

https://www.youtube.com/v/saB1YMDfmAs?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-23 09:09
标题: Gear and Gear Placement
Gear and Gear Placement

https://www.youtube.com/v/BnVJ2blHbLs?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-23 19:27
Knots for Rappelling

https://www.youtube.com/v/yzpaXduR3UQ?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-26 11:06
Using crampons

Usage: to improve mobility on snow and ice during ice climbing.

https://www.youtube.com/v/NQ_WsqrP6us?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
1. Crampons http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crampons
2. Front pointing http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Front_pointing
3. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

作者: lulululu 时间: 2014-5-26 14:10
Thanks for sharing! 要认真学习一下，尽管没打算玩mountaineering，但多学些outdoor知识只会有利无弊 :wink:

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-26 16:19
Learning from Mistakes
British climber fall from Snowdon

DO NOT
1. Look up when something is falling on you (0:37, he had time to duck )
2. Climb unprotected (they were three climbers, enough to set running belay).

DO
1. Always know the answer to question: "what happens if I fall?"
2. Always know the answer to question: "what happens if something falls on me?"
3. Wear a helmet ( he did )

https://www.youtube.com/v/Du-8hPoSIec?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-27 05:30
Learning from Mistakes
The Beckoning Silence

Analysis
All climbers had excellent technical skills, which is enough when no trouble happens. However, they lacked emergency rescue training and knowledge. This is more an issue these days (and more deaths), when gym climbers enter alpine: in gym one can start leading on the first day, skipping safety altogether as it is already provided (solid belay anchors, cushion mats, etc.) when in alpine one starts from building safety habits first and only after 2-3 seasons he can start getting confident.
"Gym climber is not automatically an alpine climber. " - Freedom of the Hills

DO NOT
Refuse help when it is offered.

DO
1. Always know the answer to question: "what happens if I fall?"
2. Always know the answer to question: "what happens if something falls on me?"
3. Wear a helmet ( rock fall caused head injury and the rest followed )
4. Know how to use Prusik Knot, Slip Knot, Munter Mule to transfer the load ( Toni Kurz died within 2-3 meters above rescue because he was stopped by rappel knot that he couldn't pass )
5. Practice passing rappel knot.
6. Have all your gear securely attached at all times ( rescue crew lost primary climbing rope which slipped off the backpack, Toni lost his glove so his left hand froze through the night )
7. Know when to turn back ( even after the head injury of one of them they continued to climb )
8. Carry emergency warmers ( a couple of modern Zippo hand warmers will do )

https://www.youtube.com/v/bfcjH3W4Vbc?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
1. Toni Kurz
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-5-29 14:18
Rammstein
Ohne Dich

German Heavy Metal (Rammstein) view of alpinism. Over-drama and some cliches for sure, but they got their point across. 祝大家周末安全。8)

"Ohne Dich" = Without you
https://www.youtube.com/v/9pkLDEEs20U?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-3 06:44
Alpine Tip #4 - Correct Order of Pitching a Tent in Snow.

1. Using snow shovel make a flat platform and lay down tent.

2. Attach tent to anchors.

2. a - for each tent floor attachment loop: dig a whole

2. b - place a snow anchor

..and press snow in layers

2. c - tie tent to the anchor with slip knot + stopper overhand

3. only after tent has been attached to the snow, erect the tent

4. dig a comfort entrance trench

5. put the fly, set additional snow anchors, tie fly to anchors

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-5 17:18
标题: Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads
Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads

Also, regardless ice, rock, or snow, this order is the same
2:25 - leader places 1st placement and attaches with clove hitch
2:33 - build 2 point anchor. use SRENE principle. master attachment point never opens the gate after it has been closed.
3:19 - belay second off anchor using Reverso
3:37 - second arrives, attaches with clove hitch to master attachment point
3:50 - placing Jesus nut

https://www.youtube.com/v/36dOEOFZW1k?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
1. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
2. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-11 05:10
标题: Alpine Tip #13 - avoid glissading
Alpine Tip #13 Don’t glissade
It is safer to walk than to glissade; glissading is a tempting option that often results in lost equipment and injuries

Loss of Control While Glissading (Thiel)
Washington, Mount Rainier, Emmons/Winthrop Glacier Route

On June 3rd, Doug Thiel, 40, and his two climbing partners summited Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier Route. On their descent, Thiel started to experience a great deal of knee pain. The pain became so intense that he preferred to glissade instead of walking down. Thiel decided to glissade while roped and wearing crampons; it was the team’s intent to descend in this fashion back to Camp Schurman.

At 11,600 feet Thiel hit an icy section and was unable to stop his slide. He slid uncontrollably past his partners and pulled them off their feet, all three fell 75-100 feet before Thiel’s two partners arrested. Thiel sustained a lower left leg injury in the process and recalled the rope wrapping around his leg, which he feels contributed to the injury.

At 3:30 pm, the Park received a cell phone call from Thiel’s team detailing the accident and requesting assistance. With a large rescue and body recovery already in progress on Liberty Ridge, the I.C. dispatched a reserve climbing ranger team to the site of the new accident. Climbing rangers Stefan Lofgren and Stoney Richards were inserted on the Emmons Glacier via light helicopter near 11,300 feet. They ascended to the accident site, assessed Thiel and then carried him to a Landing Zone (LZ.) From that LZ Thiel was flown to the Kautz Helibase where he was transferred to an ambulance.

Analysis:

Thiel wanted to avoid requesting outside help while descending. Unfortunately, glissading, particularly on the upper mountain glaciers while wearing crampons, is dangerous. It would have been safer and more efficient for Thiel’s partners to have steadily lowered him in a sitting position, one rope-length at a time. On most sections they could have simply lowered him hand over hand. On steeper sections, they could have lowered him off set protection (pickets, ice axes, etc). In the end, it is always best to avoid glissading.

A reserve climbing rescue team established during the initial Liberty Ridge incident provided the opportunity to seamlessly complete this second mission. The mission difficulties were amplified, however, by a Park-wide power outage that cut base radio and phone line communications.

Loss of Control While Glissading (Rettig)
Washington, Mount Rainier, Unicorn Peak

On the morning of July 24th, a four-person team from the Mazamas Climbing Club set out to climb Unicorn Peak in the Tatoosh Range. On the descent from the summit at roughly 2:30 pm, Joska Rettig, 50, lost control while glissading a steep snowfield. She sustained a serious injury to her left knee and leg when she impacted the rocks at the base of the snowfield. One member of the team was sent to seek assistance from the NPS while climb leader Jae Ellers splinted Rettig’s leg with an ice axe and started her crawling back towards the road. Her progress was exceedingly slow, but very admirable.

Ellers was beginning a belay of Rettig down the steep loose rock gully feeding Snow Lake when climbing rangers Glenn Kessler and Thomas Payne arrived. The rangers assisted in Rettig’s descent until they met another NPS team of rescuers. That team placed Rettig on a backboard and then into a litter for what became a night carryout to the trailhead. Upon reaching the Snow Lake trailhead, Rettig was transferred to an awaiting ambulance.

Analysis:

Don’t glissade. It is safer to walk than to glissade; glissading is a tempting option that often results in lost equipment and injuries. The slope on which Rettig lost control was a combination of hard and soft snow. It is very likely that Rettig was able to control her speed on the upper sections of the slope where the sun had been shining for hours, but was unable to slow herself on the lower, mostly shaded section.

Reference
1. Glissade (climbing)
2. Search and Rescue Reports

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-11 09:55
标题: Alpine Tip #16 - Choose climbing partners carefully
Alpine Tip #16 - Choose climbing partners carefully

The U.S. National Park Service strongly recommends choosing climbing partners carefully, considering not only the ability to reach the summit, but how a partner will perform in the event of an emergency or stressful situation.

Slip and Fall on Snow/Rock (Cooley)
Washington, Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge

Saturday, May 15th - Climber Scott Richards called Mount Rainier National Park on a cell phone requesting a rescue for his climbing partner Peter Cooley at 6:10 am, Saturday May 15th. The two-person team was ascending Liberty Ridge near 12,000 feet when Cooley’s crampon caught and he fell while leading. Richards was on the opposite side of the ridge crest when the accident occurred and was able to stop the fall using a hip belay. Cooley had fallen approximately 30 feet and hit his head, sustaining severe head trauma including a skull fracture as well as injuries to his left arm and leg. At roughly 6:30 am Ranger Mike Gauthier advised Richards via cell phone to chop out a platform, secure their tent, and stabilize and prepare Cooley for a lengthy evacuation. Scheduled cell phone calls were arranged to conserve the team’s cell phone batteries.

An Oregon Army National Guard Chinook and contract helicopter and climbing field teams were assembled for the rescue. At that time the weather was deteriorating rapidly, and forecasts predicted large amounts of precipitation. On its initial reconnaissance, the contract helicopter approached Liberty Ridge but due to whiteout conditions was forced to land on the Carbon Glacier at 8,000 feet and wait for a clearing. Because of the increasing clouds near the mountain, the Oregon National Guard Chinook helicopter was sent to Rimrock, WA instead of Kautz Helibase inside the park to connect with an aviation rescue team of NPS rangers and Rainier Mountaineering guides (RMI.)

An air-assisted rescue seemed uncertain because of weather conditions so a field team of two climbing rangers was hastily assembled and dispatched to make a quick ascent of Liberty Ridge. The advanced climbing rescue team of David Gottlieb and Chris Olson departed Ipsut Creek Campground Saturday at 4:00 pm. Heavy rain and snowfall slowed Gottlieb and Olson, forcing them to bivouac on lower Curtis Ridge that evening. A second team consisting of five climbing rangers also assembled at Ipsut Creek Campground. They carried extra supplies and prepared to support the advance team for a lengthy ground evacuation.

Late afternoon clearing around the mountain allowed the contract helicopter to depart the Carbon Glacier and return to Kautz Helibase. Richards was apprised of the rescue efforts and difficulties. He prepared for a night on the mountain at the accident site with Cooley.

Sunday, May 16th - Via cell phone, Richards reported that Cooley was in and out of consciousness all night and was unable to eat or drink. The weather remained inclement for much of the day.

A team of five climbers from Tacoma Mountain Rescue (TMR) departed Ipsut Creek Campground at 11:00 am after a briefing at Longmire. Another TMR team of two staffed the Camp Muir hut. The Chinook Helicopter with a NPS/RMI rescue team was held on standby in Yakima awaiting a break in the weather. The Chinook team prepared for a hoist insertion and evacuation of Cooley. The contract helicopter was also placed on standby at Kautz Helibase. Equipment and food caches to support field teams and rescue operations were prepared. Food, fuel, communication and rescue equipment were ferried via ground teams to lower Curtis Ridge (7,200 feet). Another cache for a yet-to-be-established field operations base camp was prepared at Kautz Helibase for a helicopter drop. A third sling load of supplies including a rescue litter was prepared for Richards at the accident site. In all, over 60 people joined in the rescue effort; the event generated international media attention.

At noon, the Chinook team attempted a flight with rescue personnel but heavy cloud cover and foul weather caused the mission to be aborted. Difficult climbing conditions and harsh weather made progress for the ground/climbing teams very arduous. Rangers Gottlieb and Olson worked through whiteout conditions and deep snow on the Carbon Glacier to prepare a field operations base camp at 8,800 feet in the Carbon Glacier basin below Willis Wall. A six-person climbing ranger team later joined them while the TMR team prepared a camp at 7,200 feet on lower Curtis Ridge. At 6:35 pm the weather briefly cleared above the Carbon Glacier, allowing the contract helicopter to conduct reconnaissance at the accident site and deliver a sling load of supplies, including a radio to replace Richard’s dead cell phone.

On the evening of May 16th, climbing rangers Gottlieb and Charlie Borgh prepared for an ascent of Liberty Ridge on the morning of the 17th. They planned to access the accident site, a 50-55 degree ice slope at roughly 12,000 feet, evaluate the scene and determine the feasibility for a helicopter evacuation or, if impossible, a technical rope rescue. Behind them climbing rangers Greg Johnson, Olson, Andy Anderson, Adrienne Sherred and Bree Loewen, laden with camping and rigging equipment, climbed to Thumb Rock and established an advanced camp. Ranger Glenn Kessler remained at base camp to manage field operations.

The Oregon Guard Chinook helicopter and crew remained on alert in Yakima and a contract helicopter remained on station at Kautz helibase. Richards, still at the accident site with Cooley was alerted of the plan.

Monday, May 17th - The contract helicopter attempted to sling load additional supplies to the climbing teams however the weather again thwarted the aviation operation. The Chinook insertion team also attempted a mountain flight but was unable due to weather and was forced to return to Yakima. Additional supplies and equipment were ferried via ground teams from Ipsut Creek campground to 7,200 feet on Lower Curtis Ridge.

Around noon, Gottlieb and Borgh arrived at the 11,800 foot accident site. Gottlieb attempted a medical assessment and relayed information to medical control via cell phone. Only limited care could be provided due to the conditions, patient and rescuer safety concerns. The team also prepared the area and set ice anchors preparing for a technical rescue. The weather improved throughout the afternoon and at 2:30 pm, the contract helicopter delivered a sling load to the 8,800 foot camp, while a supply cache was transported to Thumb Rock. The stabilizing weather also allowed the Chinook insertion team to head for the mountain at 4:30 pm.

As the Chinook lumbered over the mountain at 5:03 pm, Cooley was extracted via vertical litter hoist. He was immediately flown to Madigan Hospital and, very sadly, pronounced dead. Gottlieb and Borgh descended Liberty Ridge with Richards to spend the night at Thumb Rock.

Tuesday, May 18th - Gottlieb, Borgh and Richards descended the remainder of Liberty Ridge and were flown off the mountain from 8,800 feet along with the two other climbing rangers overseeing field aviation operations. All other field personnel descended to Ipsut Creek Campground, picking up the caches on their way.

Analysis:

Cooley and Richards were accomplished climbers, and this accident was not a result of any lapse in judgment or lack of skill. Cooley’s short, but ultimately fatal fall seems to be the result of an unfortunate misstep. Cooley was wearing a climbing helmet, but sometime during the fall he hit his head on a rock that contacted his temple just under the helmet brim. That impact eventually caused his death.

Any serious injury on a remote route at high elevation can be life-threatening due to the difficulty of access and evacuation. This accident highlights the difficulties of high altitude rescue on technical terrain, particularly when exacerbated by poor weather. Aviation is a key element of many successful upper-mountain rescues of climbers with serious injuries. When weather precludes flying, the survival of a critically injured climber is often compromised.

The fact that Richards was able to care for his climbing partner for almost 60 hours on a small exposed platform that he chopped in ice during poor weather speaks highly of him as an alpinist, rescuer and friend. The NPS strongly recommends choosing climbing partners carefully, considering not only the ability to reach the summit, but how a partner will perform in the event of an emergency or stressful situation.

While many were saddened by the outcome of this extended event after so much effort by so many people, it should be noted that the rescue was also a great success in that Richards returned safely and no rescuers were hurt. Without his climbing partner Richards would have been placed in the difficult position of soloing the route in order to reach safety.

Reference:
Search and Rescue Reports

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-11 18:33
标题: Alpine Tip #23 - Don't climb in questionable weather
Alpine Tip #23 - Don't climb in questionable weather

Although technically it is possible to climb in so-so weather (low-visibility, strong winds, rain, or even whiteouts), a minor accident can easily grow into a serious one because help can't be readily available. Before the climb, check weather for the climbing day AND the following day too, so if air evacuation is required, rescue helicopter can fly to the accident site.

See Tip 16 for the related accident: the climber's life could have been saved if not inclement weather following his short fall.

Photo: dense clouds covering Coleman-Deming Glacier, Mount Baker WA, Jun-7 2014

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-14 09:45
标题: 5:1 Pulley System with a Petzl Reverso
..

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-14 12:20
How to Break Nylon & Dyneema® Slings [Vid]
About fall factor, knots and sling material (dynamic / semi static / static (Nylon) / static (Dyneema) ).

"Never position yourself above the anchor" - you have been already told that at the Alpine Workshops, but here is a very supporting video of the same idea released by DMM lab.

..Tying a knot in a Dyneema® sling weakens it ..leading to sling failure in a fall-factor 1 ..

Video about drop-tower test conducted by DMM:
http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge ... lon-dyneema-slings/

References
1. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
2. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-15 15:51
标题: Ammon McNeely
Ammon McNeely

"..it makes you really love life.."

https://www.youtube.com/v/-DtouGJ65W8?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
1. Ammon McNeely wikipedia
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-16 05:25
Alex Honnold

Footage from free solo ascent of El Sendero Luminos (5.12d)

https://www.youtube.com/v/wX_rh8Qugt0?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
1. Alex Honnold wikipedia
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-16 09:10
标题: Alpine Tip #8 - Climb well below your actual climbing abilit
Alpine Tip #8 - Climb well below your actual climbing ability

It may sound obvious, but always be sure your climbing ability is consistent with the route you decide to climb. Practice a lot and know your limits.

Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Incompatible Partners, Poor Communication (Penn/Hancock)
Washington, Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge

Bruce Penn and Al Hancock departed White River to climb Liberty Ridge on June 13, 2004. It took them three days to reach the base of Liberty Ridge. On the third day, while looking at Liberty Ridge, Penn voiced concern to Hancock about the steepness of the route and his ability to climb it.

They spent the day talking about descent, but decided to re-evaluate their plan at the base of Liberty Ridge. On the fourth day, June 16th, an apprehensive Penn decided to start up the ridge with Hancock setting anchors and belaying every pitch. It took 14 hours for the pair to reach Thumb Rock; both individuals were exhausted and dehydrated when they finally arrived.

Penn knew that it should only take 4 to 6 hours to reach Thumb Rock from lower Curtis Ridge. He was surprised that other climbing parties were not placing protection and climbing the lower ridge without belay. He then realized that their climbing method was not practical for the route.

On the fifth morning, June 17th, Penn knew that he could not complete the climb and called 911 on his cell phone to ask for assistance. He did not discuss this with Hancock, and only informed him after the call had already occurred. That call reached Supervisory Climbing Ranger Mike Gauthier; during the conversation, Penn stated that his team could not go up or down but added that there were no injuries and they had enough food and fuel for a few days. Since there was no obvious urgency, and because an active SAR was already in progress on Liberty Ridge, Gauthier informed Penn that they would have to wait for a rescue or assistance.

At 12:44 pm, Penn called again stating that he “could not climb up or down from Thumb Rock.” Penn again acknowledged that he and his partner were okay, but that their arms were quite sore, they were dehydrated and that they had “bad vibes” about the route. Hancock felt that their best option was to continue the climb up and over, but refused to go back down. Penn was unwilling to continue up or down even with additional supplies and gear the NPS offered to drop at their location. It was explained to Penn that another more urgent SAR was in progress and that they would need to remain where they were until more personnel and resources were available.

At 7:30 Penn again called the Park requesting a helicopter rescue. When told that their rescue would still require a belayed down-climb, Penn seemed unwilling to cooperate. He said, “I just want to be off the mountain.”

On the sixth day, June 18th, arrangements were made with the Oregon National Guard for a helicopter hoist of the pair as rescue and recovery efforts remained ongoing for Casady and Vizcaya. Rangers made two airdrops for Penn and Hancock at Thumb Rock; those drops contained food, fuel and a cell phone.

On the seventh day, June 19th, an Oregon National Guard Chinook helicopter flew to the scene with three climbing rangers aboard. Ranger David Gottlieb was lowered to Thumb Rock via hoist and assisted both climbers back into the helicopter. The climbers were successfully removed from the mountain that day.

Analysis:

Penn and Hancock met on a guided climb of Mount McKinley the previous year. They had not climbed together before, but did discuss and research Mount Rainier and Liberty Ridge extensively. Some climbers often overlook the important aspect of climbing relationships and partner compatibility. The importance of a skills assessment, common goals and similar abilities are sometimes overshadowed by the excitement of summiting the mountain or “doing a route.”

A commendable aspect of this incident was that the team realized things were not going well and pulled back before getting injured. The NPS recognizes that people commit errors in judgment and make mistakes, but suggests that climbers not proceed when originally presented with questionable situations.

As a reminder, Liberty Ridge requires a substantial amount of physical strength, technical skill, effective communication and comfort with a heavy pack on steep ice for 6,000 feet of climbing.

References
1. Search and Rescue Reports by National Parks Service
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-16 18:32
标题: Climbing Tools: The Piton
Climbing Tools: The Piton

A piton is a metal spike (usually steel) that is driven into a crack or seam in the rock with a hammer, and which acts as an anchor to protect the climber against the consequences of a fall, or to assist progress in aid climbing.

https://www.youtube.com/v/xLz6fgzHp1c?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

References
1. Piton wikipedia
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-18 05:10
标题: Alpine Tip #9: Carry spare sunglasses
Alpine Tip #9: Carry spare sunglasses

Always carry spare sunglasses or one day you will learn the lesson hard way. Despite it is an obvious advise, every now and then I meet such people in dare situation, with original sunglasses either dropped, broken or misplaced. Of course, this happens in the worst possible place such as on the glacier on a sunny day with at least one day travel each way. And of course, none of the rest of the friends brought spare. ( Visit to the nearest dollar store to pick up plastic backup pair would have saved the trouble. ) 8)

References
1. Sunglasses wikipedia
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: lulululu 时间: 2014-6-18 05:35
标题: Re: Alpine Tip #9: Carry spare sunglasses

PanShiBo
Alpine Tip #9: Carry spare sunglasses

Always carry spare sunglasses or one day you will learn the lesson hard way. Despite it is an obvious advise, every now and then I meet such people in dare situation, with original sunglasses either dropped, broken or misplaced. Of course, this happens in the worst possible place such as on the glacier on a sunny day with at least one day travel each way. And of course, none of the rest of the friends brought spare. ( Visit to the nearest dollar store to pick up plastic backup pair would have saved the trouble. ) 8)

References
1. Sunglasses wikipedia
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

good tip! it happened several times in the past during our hiking trips, remember dada, 00 and Rick always has spare sunglasses....

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-19 12:36
标题: Re: Alpine Tip #9: Carry spare sunglasses

lulululu
..remember dada, 00 and Rick always has spare sunglasses....

尊重！ 8)

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-20 08:06
Alpine Tip #14: Always gear on level up.

If it is expected to be as cold as -10C, but not colder, it is wise to bring a few items, "just in case" (extra gloves, hat) to deal short-term with -15C.

Same applies to technical gear - bring everything required for the chosen route. Add 10% (but no more than that) in terms of equipment weight and bring a few extra pieces meant for one level up. If the route is F, bring gear for PD. If it is scrambling, be ready to protect short moves.

References:
1. International French Adjectival System (IFAS) @ wikipedia
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-6-28 10:35
标题: Alpine Tip #20: Eat before you get hungry
Alpine Tip #20: Eat before you get hungry

To get top performance in the alpine never wait until your body demands food. Do not overeat either. Consuming ~100 calories every 1/2 hr, no more no less right from the start, over 10-hours climb will make you function the best. Do your homework, ration your portions. Of course, you do carry modern camel water bag with enough liquid, don't you? 8)

References:
1. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
2. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-7-20 07:35
PARADOX DOWN JACKET @ COSTCO
http://www.paradoxoutdoor.com/ca/en/mum0031-2775.html

Price - $45 !

1) For outdoors men's version is way better than women's

2) Get two jackets - one your size and one size bigger, so you can have extra layer in case super cold

8)

作者: lulululu 时间: 2014-7-20 07:43
very good one, I got a similar one in Sam's club in NC 3 years ago, it was only US$19.99 then

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-8-22 13:17
How to Tie the Most Useful Knot in the World (Bowline)

https://www.youtube.com/v/Q9NqGd7464U?version=3&amp;hl=en_US

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowline

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-10-1 10:11
Alpine Tip #26
Stay away from Scrambling

scram·ble
ˈskrambəl/
verb
gerund or present participle: scrambling
make one's way quickly or awkwardly up a steep slope or over rough ground by using one's hands as well as one's feet.
"we scrambled over the wet boulders"

Yet, better and simpler definition of scrambling is : "Wandering around technical terrain with zero protection, experience and training".

According to statistics of hospitals Emergency Rooms, the most outdoor recreational sports injuries and deaths come from scrambling, being surpassed by only one type of sport (guess, what it is!?).

Books are written about known scramble routes, which, despite legal disclaimer, give false impression that it is all simple (almost equals to "just" steep hiking), provided there are no mistakes made. If so, all alpine, rock and ice climbing can be conducted is such manner (just make no mistakes, huh?), but it is not. Such books are catalogs of trouble ready to happen. One can be pretty sure that every single listed scramble route has seen a disaster some time in the past or will definitely have it in the future. So either you go train yourself first, practice a lot on a safe ground and come prepared for real alpine type climbing (=protect, protect, protect) or just stay away. Be safe, don't become statistics.

P.S. Local scramble routes such as to Sky Pilot, Crown, Hanover and West Lion and more are described in popular book "Scrambles in Southwest BC Guidebook" which promises

..access to incredible wilderness summits without using ropes or advanced climbing techniques..

All mentioned above routes had serious and even fatal accidents in the past. Some fatalities happened this year (2014), and some routes had more than one fatality within a single season! All caused from a fall when climbing "..without using ropes or advanced climbing techniques.." - exactly what the book suggested! There are no tourist routes to the top.

References:
1. Scrambling - wikipedia
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-12-19 14:57
Passing the Knot on Rappel
The instructor is using backup prusik below belay device, normal technique for straight vertical rock. In alpine we attach prusik above belay device (for a few important reasons explained in details at Alpine Workshops), and you can easily figure it out that it would be a lot easier to do Passing the Knot. So, one more reason to use prusik above device, next Alpine Practice will prove it. 8)

P.S. This video shows tragic death of a climber who failed to pass the rappel knot, within just few meters above safe ground: The Beckoning Silence

https://www.youtube.com/v/cTmAd9he_Ys?version=3&amp;hl=en_US

References
1. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
2. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: 棉花糖 时间: 2014-12-22 15:27
谢谢潘博士精彩的视频分享！ :favor: :cb:

作者: vera 时间: 2014-12-22 15:39
标题: [闲聊]

棉花糖
谢谢潘博士精彩的视频分享！

Want to come to Alpine workshop? Lots of fun. You will enjoy it while learning. Also it planted concept of safety gradually into my mind and then became my own. I feel so lucky to have these opportunities.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-12-22 20:55
标题: Re: [闲聊]

vera
..Want to come to Alpine workshop? Lots of fun. You will enjoy it while learning...

我从中华回家以后，肯定会重新开始！期待！ 8)

ARCHIVE PHOTO: Alpine Practice: Avalanche Rescue Response drill.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2014-12-27 19:13
Tracker DTS

Avalanche transceivers or avalanche beacon are a class of active radio beacon transceivers operating at 457 kHz and specialized for the purpose of finding people or equipment buried under snow.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avalanche_transceiver

https://www.youtube.com/v/j_FXpx2eIXU?version=3&amp;hl=en_US

References
1. Avalanche transceiver - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avalanche_transceiver
2. Tracker DTS - http://www.backcountryaccess.com/product/tracker-dts/
3. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
4. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2015-6-3 07:17
标题: How to start
Alpine Tip #28 - Start from the beginning.

Sometimes people ask "I want to start climbing alpine, but how should I begin?". Ironically I hear it from seasoned rock climbers who have found that climbing gym or outdoors crags (e.g. Squamish) doesn't automatically prepare one for real mountains. Surprising fact - the more a rock climber is advanced the less chances he will qualify for a beginner alpine trip (e.g. on Mt. Rainier). Often a solid 5.11+ rock lead has no clue about what snow pickets are for or crevasse rescue response protocol.

But you probably already know the answer: "You begin from the beginning, start asking questions that is."

Next step I would recommend is to learn Alpine Belay and spend one summer training yourself climbing alpine style in local crags. Please note that Alpine Belay is different from what they teach in climbing gyms (top-rope belay). The proper Alpine Belay technique is described in the book "Freedom of the Hills". Obviously, you will need a climbing partner to go training with. This mandatory need signifies the very foundation of climbing and that's what essentially makes alpine different from hiking - you do need a reliable partner.

Climb alpine style - in boots, with a pack and what is more important, downclimb too. Train yourself endurance too. Typically you would go practice climbing alpine rock in Squamish and then hike BCMC trail right after. After one training season you will probably know if the thing is for you. Majority of people by this time will realize that alpine is not what they have imagined, that it is actually "too much hard work", and will give up - these will go back rock climbing (or Grouse Grind hiking). But if your heart demands more action, teach yourself how to rappel (alpine style is again different from rock-climbing style) and then you will be ready for seconding some local low-level alpine rock: Skypilot, West Lion, Hanover, Tricouni, etc.. After seeing some sustained air (and the ground well below your feet) decide if this is what you like. Understandably, after such trip ("too much suffer") even more people will go back rock climbing or Grouse Grind hiking.

If your heart is still pumping excited and wants more, you proceed to the next step and learn snow/ice travel - dealing with crevasses and climbing steep snow. This will prepare you for "real" alpine world and you will be ready to climb beginner routes on Mt. Baker WA, self-supported and unguided.

Like climbing tall mountains, do not speed in learning, go slowly, one step at a time. And remember, only hard (and frequent) practice will take you there, there are no shortcuts, unless hiring a guide (but that's not called alpine when you are being served hot coffee in the morning without getting out of tent or even out of your sleeping bag). If you persevere, you will surely succeed touching that hard summit and many many more. 8)

作者: 海泉湾 时间: 2015-6-4 00:01
谢谢分享 :gd:

作者: 杜鹃花 时间: 2015-6-16 11:33
mark

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2015-6-16 17:45
标题: How to ice-axe self arrest
How to ice-axe self arrest

https://www.youtube.com/v/LM3xLshmNnk?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

Reference
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2015-6-19 05:22
标题: Base Alpine Emergency Set
Alpine Tip #29 Base Alpine Emergency Set

Chances of spending an unexpected alpine night are never zero. No matter where you go, would it be climbing Mt. Rainier, hiking Brunswick-Harvey loop or doing Musical Bumps carryover, always carry a light emergency set: SOL bivy, tarp and a small pad or air mattress. Don't forget to add a protein bar or two.

1. Survive Outdoors Longer Emergency Bivvy.

Weight: 108g
A good emergency bivy sack, the metalized fabric reflects up to 90% of your radiated body heat. It's waterproof, windproof, and extremely light. Comes with its own extra-large stuff sack, which will also accommodate extra survival gear.

2. Silicone Scout Tarp. Weight: 515g

The Scout is a favourite option for ultra-light hikers. It also makes a fine small shelter for two people on a ski trip or a day trip that leads to a windy summit or lakeshore. The silicone-treated fabric is awesomely light and compact and has incredible tear-resistance. It is a versatile design that you can rig as a roof, or pitch at an angle to create a comfortable shelter from the wind.

3. Small foam pad or air mattress.
This one will let insulate your body from ground.

作者: vera 时间: 2015-6-19 06:52
标题: [分享] 体验 SOL
看到博士如上所述，不由得想和大家分享一下我使用SOL的经历。

记得去年一月我们跟着博士去Keith's Hut，博士就一直强调SOL的重要性，我当然是准备了，但是它和其他放在emergency kit里的东西一样，在我眼里，就像是air bag，用到它？几乎没有可能！有时候觉得像个摆设，只是不摆不行，不能下架（否则我就跟不了队伍了），好在很轻，倒也没什么抱怨。

就这样，一年多过去了，它总是静静地呆在我的小包里，我们彼此相安无事。谁曾想我会真的一天用到它呢？两个月前，去Assiniboine公园的Magog湖，冰天雪地，本来是个day hike，却因为公园的空无一人和没上锁的Naiset Hut，强烈激发了我们要留下来的愿望。博士问“你带了SOL吗？”当然带了。“那好吧，让我们来测试一下它的功能。”我这个习惯跟随的人，在这样的高手面前当然是提不出什么反对的意见的，但是心里也有些紧张，担心会冻得睡不了觉，那不就是一个大大的“塑料袋”吗？能行吗？而且不是几个小时，而是一夜哦！不过呢，想归想，大自然的吸引力还是远远超过这个小小的不安。住就住！

日落后，我们回到木屋，木屋因为有烤火的炉子很温暖，所以入睡是一点问题也没有，SOL准备好了，但是还不需要它。好景不长，炉子没多久就灭了，气温越来越低了，便钻进了SOL，还真没想到，它真的很管用，虽然很薄，可是马上就不觉得冷了。和羽绒睡袋还不一样，冬天雪地露营时，在睡袋里，有时候还觉得外面的冷气紧贴着你，动一动都不行，我常常在睡袋和身体之间垫上多带的羽绒衣感觉才会好些；可是SOL让你没有那样的感觉，保温和防风效果极好，我是只穿着短袖速干衣在SOL的包裹里过了一夜的。怎么样，难以想象吧？

在这里也要说一下它的不尽人意的特点：袋子里面会很湿。人在睡觉的时候多多少少会翻身，在我们把它当睡袋的情况下，问题就来了--- 一翻身，袋子就跟着动，那袋子内壁积着的水就会流下来，或者碰到你的皮肤凉凉的，这种感觉很不好受，后来我就尽量一个姿势睡觉，努力保持静止状态。话说回来，这样的不足和它在紧急时起的作用相比，真可忽略不计。有了它，我才有机会看到Mt Assiniboine的日出日落，才没被冻坏安全地回来。

还没有准备SOL的各位，看到这里，是否有了添置它的念头呢？

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2015-6-19 07:19
The emergency foam pad (item #3) was also used in the Crown Mountain Accident in 2012, coincidentally exactly three years ago. The victim was getting hypothermic lying on the small snow platform waiting for rescue helicopter, the pad helped to insulate his soaked body from the cold surface. (He was located under stream inside the moat, with broken leg and in shock, unable to get out. It took approx. one hour before team found and extracted him from where he was. By then he was already shaking from cold. It took another 2.5 hours before he was flown out.) .

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2015-6-23 11:14
标题: How to sleep comfortably at below -20C.
Alpine Tip #30 How to sleep comfortably at below -20C.

1. As always, layers is the main principle in preventing body heat escape. Therefore, two light summer sleeping bags combined are a lot better than one single thick winter one. Carry one bag of your size and another one size bigger. Make sure it is longer than you height to accommodate your boots (or they will get frozen solid). Besides, -20C winter sleeping bag, not only super expensive, but is also absolutely useless in summer.

2. Unfold sleeping bag just before going inside, or it will take cold air (-20C) and you will spend a long time warming it up.

3. When sleeping avoid moving your body much, or the movement will push inside air out and take cold air in. Again, it will take time to warm it up.

4. 25% of body heat is lost from the head. Wear thick woolen hat and/or a balaclava.

5. Before going to sleep, fill a plastic Nalgene water bottle with boiling water and place it inside the bag. You can drink that water at night too. As a backup you can also fill a 1L thermos and use that water for refill later-on. Using boilng water is a lot more effective, powerful and practical than commercial hand/toe warmers. Do not use Zippo hand warmers at all, produced fumes are very bad.

6. Wear woolen gloves.

7. Use air mattress. A simple one from MEC will do. Don't bother with expensive ones. Snow has very low thermal conductivity, so actual purpose of the air matters is not to protect you from cold, but protect your back from consequences of spending a night on a hard surface.

8. Wear parka and woolen socks.

9. In unlikely event of still being cold, use S.O.L. emergency bivy (or just a large garden plastic bag).

PHOTO: Digital thermometer measures -20.3C inside tent @ Mt. Rohr.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2015-7-19 06:59
Alpine Tip #31 Do not test your abilities in alpine.

Contrary to popular opinion, recreational unguided alpine is not the place where one goes to test his/her abilities ("limits").  Nor is it a training ground to sharpen someone's mountaineering techniques. This becomes obvious - sometimes too late - when reality turns out to be a lot harder than the present skills can handle. That's how all bad epics emerge. An annual issue of the book "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" is a convincing catalog of often tragic examples.

The "normal" way is to train yourself necessary skills under safe supervision and climb alpine routes that are two levels down in difficulty to what you have achieved so far. For example, before going to so called "scrambling" (which is basicly a term for any unprotected rock climbing or "free solo"), better first learn how to climb and downclimb beginner's rock (~5.2) in Squamish. Otherwise one day you may  find yourself stuck on some "easy" terrain not being able to climb up or climb back down (or worse).

P.S. The above only applies to self-propelled alpine trips, if you climb with a guide (the person who is in charge of providing your safety and you are not expected to provide his) then everything becomes very  different. 8)

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2015-7-22 08:48
Alpine Tip #32 Cover your skin.

In alpine there many compelling reasons to cover all your skin. Base layer like Paradox Merino Blend set sold recently sold by Costco will be just perfect.

Base layer will protect your skin :

1. From solar radiation ( = premature skin aging, skin cancer, ets.)
2. From dust.
3. From ticks (or lyme disease).
4. From contact with poison plants (e.g.poison oak)
5. From scratches made by tree branches and sharp plants.
6. Bug repellent better be applied on the fabric of base layer than directly to your skin.
7. Will prevent skin cuts in case of a fall on steep snow.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-2-7 08:54
标题: Alpine Tip #33: How to select a partner
Alpine Tip #33 How to choose a partner

The internet is full of stories about trips ending in disaster only because the partners met each other online and never bothered to check if they would be good together. And yes, I have had these "disasters" myself more than once!

Here is a simple checklist that guarantees the trouble of this kind will be avoided.

1. The trip with potential partner must be safer than without him/her.
This is obvious of course, how can it be otherwise? Yet, often this most important factor is never examined before the trip. Ideally, you would want to make sure the partner will follow all the items listed here: EIGHT SAFETY HABITS OF A PERFECT HIKER.

2. The trip with potential partner must be more fun than without him/her.
Sure, who wants to see a long face on a completely silent day full of ready to be exploded electricity? Yet again, not only this element is often ignored, some trips end up the "partners" found themselves separated for almost the entire trip: after all, why to have a "partner" at all if he/she takes off at the trailhead to be never seen again?

3. The trip with potential partner should have more chances to succeed.
Having one common clearly defined goal is important and partners with different objectives is a recipe for disappointment.

Just because you "liked" the person without checking those three items above shouldn't be counted much, most of the successful alpine trips happen on a so called "neutral territory". Even more, I had good trips with a partner who didn't like me personally and it was mutual. After summiting and returning to the base camp we would trade sarcastic remarks about each other, and yet still go on the next trip together. "Touching the void" book / movie illustrates this point very well - "Although we are climbing partners, we are not friends" 8)

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-2-24 06:37
标题: Beginner mountaineering Courses by BCMC.
Beginner mountaineering Courses by BCMC. Year 2016.

Details at the moment are sketchy, but in any case the courses may fill fast. 8)

Alpine
----------------------------------------------------
Mountaineering Intro Weekend 1 (version 1)
https://bcmc.ca/m/events/view/1455853783

Mountaineering Intro Weekend 1 (version 2)
https://bcmc.ca/m/events/view/1455854404

Mountaineering Intro Weekend 2
https://bcmc.ca/m/events/view/1455855281

Mountaineering Intro Weekend 3
https://bcmc.ca/m/events/view/1455855678

----------------------------------------------------

Intro to Mountaineering for Women
https://bcmc.ca/m/events/view/1443658437

Rock
----------------------------------------------------

Basic Outdoor Top-Roping
https://bcmc.ca/m/events/view/1455843850

Rock Climbing Essentials
https://bcmc.ca/m/events/view/1455844607

Social
----------------------------------------------------

BCMC Summer Camp 2016 (not really a course, but rather a social event - could be fun)
https://bcmc.ca/m/events/view/1455139961

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-4-5 05:25
Alpine Tip #35 Don't guess slope angle, use tools.

On internet these days, it is not uncommon to read people's reports snowshoeing slopes of "50-60 degrees". It is obvious, that certain folks have no clue what they are talking about.

Eyeball guessing a snow slope is never reliable, especially when one is looking down. A 25° slope will look like vertical. However, a 30° slope can kill, on 45° slope it is practically impossible to self-arrest with an ice-axe (too steep), ans slopes steeper than 50° are not climbable with snowshoes.

So, do yourself a favor and load to your smartphone an app that measures slope angle (search for "angle meter"), get to know how to use it and stop guessing! 8)

作者: eugene1213 时间: 2016-4-6 13:05
标题: Re: How to sleep comfortably at below -20C.
博士：I have a question about "snow thermal conductivity". What does it mean?
I have always told people to use good insulated sleeping pad for camping in the snow. What kind of sleeping bag should I choose when sleeping on the SNOW VS. COLD HARD SURFACE?
Thanks!

PanShiBo
Alpine Tip #30 How to sleep comfortably at below -20C.

7. Use air mattress. A simple one from MEC will do. Don't bother with expensive ones. Snow has very low thermal conductivity, so actual purpose of the air matters is not to protect you from cold, but protect your back from consequences of spending a night on a hard surface.

PHOTO: Digital thermometer measures -20.3C inside tent @ Mt. Rohr.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-4-6 13:25
标题: Re: How to sleep comfortably at below -20C.

eugene1213
博士：I have a question about "snow thermal conductivity". What does it mean?
I have always told people to use good insulated sleeping pad for camping in the snow. What kind of sleeping bag should I choose when sleeping on the SNOW VS. COLD HARD SURFACE?
Thanks!
..

thermal conductivity - "..ability to conduct heat.."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_thermal_conductivities

eugene1213
..What kind of sleeping bag should I choose when sleeping on the SNOW VS. COLD HARD SURFACE?
Thanks!
..

Two summer sleeping bags work fantastic in winter and that's what I always recommend to use. Get one bigger size and one normal size - for colder trips bring two bags, insert normal bag in bigger bag. People buy expensive -25C bags and that is a waste of money. Having two summer bags is a lot cheaper than one -25C bag, it allows you to use normal size bag in summer, in shelters and in car camping, when -25C bag is impossible to sleep in (boiling hot!) unless it is at least -10C. Cold hard surface is colder than snow surface. So up to you to decide - some people sleep colder than other. 8)

作者: eugene1213 时间: 2016-4-6 13:35
标题: Re: How to sleep comfortably at below -20C.

PanShiBo
[quote]eugene1213
博士：I have a question about "snow thermal conductivity". What does it mean?
I have always told people to use good insulated sleeping pad for camping in the snow. What kind of sleeping bag should I choose when sleeping on the SNOW VS. COLD HARD SURFACE?
Thanks!
..

thermal conductivity - "..ability to conduct heat.."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_thermal_conductivities

eugene1213
..What kind of sleeping bag should I choose when sleeping on the SNOW VS. COLD HARD SURFACE?
Thanks!
..

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-4-6 13:46
标题: Re: How to sleep comfortably at below -20C.

eugene1213
Thank you 博士
I will use zlite sol plus my reactor 3.8 then. :)
http://www.mec.ca/product/5027-4 ... g-pad-unisex/?q=sol

Foam pads can be hard on your back. I used to use one like this. Until I received an air mattress as a gift. After so many years I realized why my back hurt so much after every backpacking trip! Not anymore. 8)

作者: eugene1213 时间: 2016-4-6 13:58
标题: Re: How to sleep comfortably at below -20C.

PanShiBo
Foam pads can be hard on your back. I used to use one like this. Until I received an air mattress as a gift. After so many years I realized why my back hurt so much after every backpacking trip! Not anymore. 8)

I have only used the Zlite Sol once, and it worked surprisingly well.(Maybe because I was sleeping on the grass, so the soil is soft enough). I will use foam+pad system this time and see how it works :D
Thanks 博士

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-4-7 08:02
标题: Alpine Tip #36 Do know which risk category you and your part
Alpine Tip #36 Do know which risk category you and your partner belong to.

In life, some people take risk, some people avoid it. It all depends on personal preferences. Nothing is morally wrong with either. However, in social sciences, it is a well known fact that people who have nothing to lose (no family, kids, house, career) will more likely accept risky ideas. On other hand, those who lead happy satisfying rich life, prefer sure things and would avoid taking risks even if it costs them high premium.

In alpine, it is extremely important to determine who you are - a risk taker or a risk avoider. And you should also know who your partner is. You two must be compatible! Two gamblers will be just fine traveling unroped on a glacier, or climbing steep exposed faces unprotected (so called "scrambling", "solo", "simulclimbing" etc.) when even a small mistake might be very expensive, for the sake of gaining the summit.

On the other hand, those who prefer avoiding risk will protect every move, and may not reach the summit because of running out of time; alpine protection slows down considerably.

A risk taker and a risk avoider together is a recipe for a ruined trip - a risk taker will want the summit at any cost and risk avoider will want to come back home in one piece, heck with the summit!

Please note, that comparing "achievements" made by different categories makes no sense, obviously - even if only because the goals of those are not quite the same. 8)

PHOTO: Roped up climbers on Warren Glacier, en-route to the summit of Mt. Garibaldi. March 10, 2015

作者: eugene1213 时间: 2016-4-9 15:01

PanShiBo
Munter Mule Knot

When to use: tying off a climber.

https://www.youtube.com/v/XkIHoJBzECs?hl=en_US&amp;hl=en_US

博士：
Question about Muter Mule Knot.
Is this knot an alternative to Personal Anchor System for climber?

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-4-11 18:56

eugene1213

博士：
Question about Muter Mule Knot.
Is this knot an alternative to Personal Anchor System for climber?

作者: eugene1213 时间: 2016-4-11 21:57

PanShiBo
[quote]eugene1213

博士：
Question about Muter Mule Knot.
Is this knot an alternative to Personal Anchor System for climber?

No, it is not. I am not much familiar with Personal Anchor System and we never use it, looks like it is for rock/ water ice climbers. However, Munter Mule is used in general mountaineering and everywhere else, when so called "open systems" are required, and those are required for so called "load transfer" technique. "Load transfer" technique is required in emergency and rescue situations. Too much theory, huh? 8)[/quote]
I see 博士 and yes, there are MANY theories in mountaineering
:shock:

Personal Anchor System(PAS) is from Metolius.
I use it for anchor/secure myself when I reach the top of the climb to clean the anchor/belay second climber up to multipitch etc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsiArSZzOJ4

I guess in terms of mountaineering, I want to carry as less gear/equipment as possible. And knowing all the knots with the rope I will be carrying will be much more beneficial.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-4-12 08:00
Alpine Tip #38 What to do and not to do in a fall on low-angle snow slopes.

Low angle (<30 degrees) snow slopes can and do kill people. Most so because such slopes don't "look dangerous" enough, an ice axe and a helmet are rarely used. However, a tripping on a crampon strap could become a fall which could turn into an uncontrolled acceleration. The worst case is flipping when downclimbing, face forward. In such an event it is unlikely one can do much except bracing himself and hope to be lucky.

Yet, try not to scream, instead keep your mouth shut making an air in your lungs locked and work as an airbag, or your ribs might get broken from impact. Duck your head so that it is your backpack that takes all the beating. Using elbows, try hard to bring your body into facing the slope, head-up position - as in a classic self-arrest with an ice-axe (which you don't have at the moment). Keep your boots (especially with crampons) in the air, out of touch with the snow, or you may be hurled into the air (or have your legs broken) from crampons catching the surface.

Immediately after your body is in proper self-arrest position, act fast, stretch your arms keeping you from rolling to sides and use fingers to stop or at least to slow down body velocity. The entire fall might be short (yet dramatic) in "reality" for outsiders, but for you it may seem rather slow, so that you may be quite able to analyze current situation in its entirety, can regroup and combined with luck, avoid a rather serious outcome. 8)

PHOTO: Mt. Rainier NP, a typical 30° slope (measured with instrument). When icy it can kill. A glissade path, which you can see on the right, invites beginners to test their luck (or bad luck).

P.S. As a sad example, a BCMC member and a trip co-organizer, was fatally injured on a similar slope on Mt.Rainier in 2013.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-4-21 07:23
标题: What equipment?
Alpine Tip #39 What equipment?

Before investing in that rather expensive but cool-looking shiny piece of alpine gear, one should decide if it is worth the price. Here is how.

The only purpose of any mountaineering equipment is to deal with a fall. If it doesn't address a fall in some way, it is not mountaineering gear.

Two major categories of gear are: 1) preventing the fall 2) dealing with the fall.

Main principle in alpine: the less is always better. A piece should be as universal as possible. For example, why to bring a daisy chain when you can do without it? Texas prusik could be used only in vertical and a very long rope climb (extremely rare situation) - it is bulky and heavy, and there is no other use - when a leg prusik will be just fine?

So before picking up a piece in the store and rushing to the check-out counter, mentally review:

- Is this piece going to address a fall and in what manner? Do I really need it, as my other gear might already do what it does?

Examples:
1. Foot wear - prevents a fall. Good investment. Training is strongly advised ( Alpine Walk ).
2. Ice ax - prevents a fall. Deals with a fall. Super universal piece, must have. Training required - improper use will hurt.
3. Helmet - doesn't prevent a fall, but deals with it, to a degree. Often, wearing a helmet determines the difference: will you end up in a wheelchair for life or even worse.
4. Crampons - prevent a fall. Dangerous in a fall. Training required - improper use will hurt.
5. Rope - deals with a fall, sometimes is used to prevent it. Training required - improper use will hurt.
6. Sunglasses - makes one looking cool, but is not alpine gear.

No piece of equipment can reduce the risk of falling to zero. It is up to you to decide how much you should have - it all depends on your risk tolerance: some people want less, some people need more. As long as you are risk-tolerance-compatible with your climbing partner that is ( see Tip 36 ).

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-3 09:33
Accident: Injured man left alone - Wedge Glacier - 2008.08

Injured man left alone rescued at night on Wedge Glacier
By Jesse Ferreras

A military helicopter had to be flown in to Whistler Monday night after the RCMP received a distress call regarding a hiker who injured his leg on Wedge Glacier.

Whistler RCMP were notified by SPOT (Satellite Personal Tracker) GPS Distress Systems in Texas at about 8:40 p.m. that a distress beacon signal was coming from a location about six kilometres east of Whistler. The nature of a distress cannot be provided by the SPOT system, and thus RCMP were not aware of the severity of the emergency.

Shortly after, a 9-1-1 operator received a call asking for helicopter rescue for a member of a four-man climbing party who broke his leg at 8,200 feet on the Wedge Glacier.

Whistler Search and Rescue was notified thereafter and put in contact with the caller, who was not the injured person. The caller said the injured hiker was fine, both conscious and breathing, except for a possible fracture to a lower leg.

At this point it was 9:10 p.m., too late for a helicopter to fly. The caller was instructed to go back to the injured man and provide care and guidance to a rescue party in the morning. The caller agreed and said he would send the other two fit members of their party to the Wedge Hut campsite to get clothes and sleeping bags for the injured climber.

Whistler SAR received another call at midnight saying that the situation had worsened for the injured climber — the caller said he was exhausted, cold and could not make it back to the injured climber. He also worried the injured man might die if a helicopter didn’t reach him immediately.

Whistler SAR relayed the information to the Rescue Co-ordination Centre in Victoria and requested assistance from 442 Squadron — Air/Sea Rescue out of CFB Comox on Vancouver Island. Land-based search and rescue is not generally the squadron’s responsibility, but it is the only unit with night-flying capability.

Brad Sills with Whistler SAR said it “doesn’t take a rocket scientist” to figure out the dangers of night flying in the Coast Mountains.

“Typically (they’re) flying with night vision goggles, which enhances different levels of light,” he told Pique . “ It’s not like they’re seeing with the naked eye, they’re interpreting things through digital technology.

“ Just the fact that you’re relying on technology heightens the danger.”

It’s because of these dangers that night rescues are very rare.

After some delays due to the squadron’s call priority status, it was confirmed 442 Squadron could carry out the rescue but first needed to reconfigure the aircraft, burn off fuel and remove much of their rescue kit in order to carry out a rescue at 8,200 feet.

A large EH 101 Cormorant rescue helicopter landed at Whistler Municipal Heliport at 4:35 a.m. and, with the help of Whistler SAR and the RCMP, the aircraft was prepared for the rescue.

Still in darkness, the chopper was then flown up Rethel Creek to the scene using night vision equipment. The rescue crew was confused to find another climbing party of four ascending the glacier.

The rescue crew were later shocked to discover a lone person, the injured climber, lying on the glacier at a higher elevation. The rescue crew was able to access, stabilize and transport the injured hiker inside the helicopter.

The rest of his climbing party had to be woken from a “deep sleep” at Wedgemont Hut, according to Sills. Whistler SAR was surprised that the injured person would be left alone after a seemingly urgent request for help.

According to an e-mail from Sills, the threesome felt there was no point in them all being cold when a helicopter would pick them up in the morning.

However, when asked in an interview why the climber was left alone on the glacier, Sills said, “We don’t speculate on why people do things.”

Sills said that Whistler SAR is “very concerned” about the use of SPOT technology as people’s only rescue plan while doing outdoor activity.

He added that relying on the technology, which is available in stores such as Mountain Equipment Co-op, is a flawed concept because it merely indicates the location where an emergency is taking place.

“All they do is submit a lat and longitude, so all we get is a location of a distress call but no details,” Sills said. “I don’t think it’s a well thought through technology because it doesn’t give the nature of the emergency.”

He said in his e-mail that outdoor recreationalists need to have adequate knowledge and skill sets for the areas they travel in and should know what to do if rescue crews don’t show up.

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com ... Content?oid=2161907

Prevention
16: Choose climbing partners carefully
29: Base Alpine Emergency Set
34: How to pick a partner

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-3 19:31
Accident: Mount Bell - 2008.08

We were scrambling up the avalanche path on the west side of O'Brien Lake to gain the NE ridge. We went up some fourth and easy fifth class rockbands and he was to the left and ahead, looking for a way up another rockband. A foothold ledge broke away and stranded him 10 m up the band. In the process of trying to get him out of this position, he fell 10 m and hit his head and then rag doll tumbled and rolled 100 m down scree and small rock steps.

I climbed down to him, did first aid, activated an older ACR Terrafix PLB and then ran down to Taylor lake. I borrowed a cellphone from a tourist and arranged a heli evacuation.
He is still unconscious in intensive care but a full recovery is possible.

Bottom line is we made some mistakes and had some bad luck. Avoid bad rock or always leave a large margin of error below your climbing ability. Slow down, climb carefully and think about the consequences and your responsibilities. Always wear your helmet.

http://www.explor8ion.com/sites/ ... 20Mount%20Bell.html

Prevention
8 Climb well below your actual climbing ability
14 Gear one level up
26 Stay away from Scrambling
31 Do not test your abilities in alpine.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-3 20:18
Accident: Anniversary Glacier - 2015.10

A hiker that had been missing since early Saturday morning has been found dead near Pemberton, confirmed search and rescue personnel.

Vancouver man Michael Charles Low, 49, reportedly fell in a crevasse in steep, mountainous terrain on Anniversary Glacier, near Joffre Peak.

"At this point we don't know what happened," said Pemberton Search and Rescue manager Dave Steers. "All our guys are reporting (the area) to be extremely icy and slippery with lots of exposed ice."

Low was reported missing to Vancouver Police when he failed to meet friends for dinner Saturday and could not be reached by cell phone.

The experienced hiker had told friends he planned to overnight Friday at the Keith Flavelle hut near the headwaters of Cerise Creek before returning Saturday afternoon.

He was last seen early Saturday morning heading uphill from the cabin, according to Mounties.

Pemberton Search and Rescue (PSAR) was mobilized and began a comprehensive search at first light Sunday morning. Whistler Search and Rescue also assisted in the alpine search.

The Cerise Creek trail is a relatively short hike through remote forest along the Duffey Lake Road. The Keith Flavelle hut is surrounded by forest and steep mountainous terrain that "can be challenging," said Steers.

The location where Low's body was found was close to the site of another tragic incident from January where three hikers were killed after falling from a central couloir on Joffre Peak.

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com ... Content?oid=2675573

Prevention
* Never hike alone
* Do not step on any glacier without proper equipment (= unroped) and formal training in Glacier Travel and Rescue Response.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-4 05:52
Accident: Hanes Valley - 2014.12

The body of Liang Jin has been found yesterday in North Vancouver. (Vancouver Police)
Liang Jin's body was found by his family in the Hanes Valley in North Vancouver's Lynn Headwaters Regional Park, authorities say. The 21yearold Vancouver hiker was reported missing when he had not returned from a hike he apparently went on New Year's Eve. Massive search efforts on the North Shore mountains at the time were unsuccessful and were eventually called off.

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/br ... mountains-1.2962494

Prvention
* Never hike alone

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-5 03:41
Accident: Sky Pilot Mountain - 2014.07

..A man died near Squamish over the weekend in the backcountry after accessing difficult terrain via the Sea to Sky Gondola ..The BC Coroners Service said Hosford and two friends took the gondola up on the morning of Saturday, July 5. They hiked to Sky Pilot Mountain with the aim of "scrambling" to the summit of the 2,025-metre peak (6,645-foot), the highest in the coast range south of Garibaldi. The trio made the peak, but the weather turned and the descent became extremely slippery.

"He was in technical mountaineering terrain," said Howe, describing the area above the treeline with snowfields, rock pitches and exposed terrain...

Hosford slipped while going down a snow chute and fell a "considerable distance." He died at the scene.

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com ... Content?oid=2562414

Prevention
* Stay away from Scrambling

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-5 10:38
Accident: Brunswick Mountain

The individual slipped on a snow patch and slid into rocks. The victim sustained several serious injuries: a collapsed lung, 6 broken ribs and a fractured lumbar vertebrae. None of the party had an ice axe, which may have prevented this accident. It is important to remember that even routes often considered "simple hikes" can invovle the risk of injury. Don't underestimate any mountain route.

Full description here.

Prevention
Even low-angle snow slopes can kill. Be prepared to deal with an innocent slip that can turn in uncontrolled acceleration. Carry an ice axe and know how to use it.

作者: lulululu 时间: 2016-5-5 13:05
谢谢潘博士分享，非常喜欢读事故报告，也从你和Vera分享的经验中学到很多，受益非浅!

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-5 14:01
Accident: West Lion - 2009.08

A French hiker is lucky to be alive after falling more than 45 metres down a popular North Shore mountain. The climber was with two friends hiking the west peak of the Lions around 10:00 a.m. Wednesday when he tumbled from the summit.

Full description here.

Prevention
Stay away from scrambling.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-5 17:19
Accident: Mount Harvey - 2008.01

A Vancouver man has died after a rescue on Mount Harvey..

...The 44-year-old, an experienced climber, was hiking with a friend around the base of the mountain just northwest of North Vancouver on Jan. 18 when he decided to begin climbing on his own, said Keith Campden of Lions Bay Search and Rescue...

The climber was found at about midnight. He was hypothermic and suffering from several injuries, including a concussion. Rescuers suspect he had fallen or slid down a snow slope.

He was carried down from the mountain on a stretcher and taken to hospital, where he died.

Full description here.

Prevention
Habit #2 of the EIGHT SAFETY HABITS OF A PERFECT HIKER - "..He doesn't separate from the group..."

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-5 17:43
Accident: Goat Mountain - 2015.10

..A fallen hiker was rescued from deep in the backcountry of Vancouver's North Shore mountains yesterday after falling nearly five metres and suffering spinal injuries and serious trauma to her face and neck...

Full description here.

Prevention
Stay away from Scrambling. Five meters fall is enough to end up in a wheel chair for life (or worse).

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-5 18:56
Accident: Crown Mountain - 2013.11

Missing British hiker - Tom Billings.

..Based on their understanding of his movements and time and distance travelled, searchers now believe Mr. Billings ran into trouble near the base of Crown Mountain around nightfall...

“We feel it’s a (body) recovery operation,” Mr. Jones said. Most likely, what he’s done – why we can’t see him from the air and why we haven’t been able to find him – is that he’s under a log or under a rock somewhere.”

The body has never been found.

Full description here.
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/helpfindtom/

Prevention
Never hike alone.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-6 05:08
Accident: Hollyburn Mountain - 2013.01

..A backcountry snowshoer is in hospital in serious condition after falling off a cliff on Hollyburn Mountain last night.

North Shore Rescue had to put their own lives at risk to get to him, but managed to rescue him very early this morning...“We tracked down where he fell into the gully, it was a 100-foot vertical rappel we had to make in order to get to him, that’s how far he fell.”

Full description here.

Prevention
Even on family-type outings like Hollyburn it is quite possible to get into major trouble. Do not wander into technical terrain. Stay on the official established trail.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-6 06:03
Accident: Mount Seymour - 2014.11

..A 61-year-old hiker has suffered serious injuries after falling from a peak in the North Shore Mountains...

Full description here.

Prevention
Stay away from the edges.

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-6 06:43
标题: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS
- Brunswick Mountain - Slide on snow into rocks - TRAUMA
2006.09 West Lion - Unprotected fall on rock - FATAL
2008.01 Mount Harvey - Missing snowboarder - FATAL
2016.03 Lynn Creek - Falling into the water - FATAL
2016.05 Norvan Falls - Falling into the water - FATAL
2016.07 Grouse Grind - Medical - FATAL
2016.09 Cypress Mountain - Missing hiker - FATAL

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-6 07:34
Accident: Lynn Creek - 2016.03

...Cole Marsh, 17, was at the popular park Monday afternoon when he reportedly climbed over the safety fences and jumped off a cliff near the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge.

He was able to hang on to the rocks for about 30 minutes while rescuers made their way to him but he let go and was swept into the water. Rescuers have been at the scene daily since then but water levels have been too high to safely recover Marsh's body...

Full description here.

Prevention
Safety fences are put for a reason. Stay away.

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-6 08:50
Accident: Cypress Mountain - 2012.05

..A middle-aged man is dead after a mountain biking accident in West Vancouver this afternoon....McRae is shocked and surprised by the death, adding the trail on which the rider is believed to have died – Coiler – was not one of the more difficult ones...

Full description here.

Prevention
Easy terrain can kill too, if taken off-guard. Be careful.

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-6 09:01
Accident: Mount Seymour - 2011.02

..A North Vancouver backcountry skier died Saturday after falling several hundred metres from a peak in Mount Seymour provincial park.
The 36-year-old was skiing with a companion on First Pump Peak some time before noon when he apparently lost control..

Full description here.

Prevention
Know you limits. Do not test your abilities in alpine.

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS

作者: PanShiBo 时间: 2016-5-6 09:17
Accident: Lions Bay - 2010.09

..Saturday a hiker was long lined out of gully near Lions Bay by NSR after sustaining head injuries from falling into a gully. The rescue was a joint effort between NSR and Lions Bay SAR..

Full description here.

Prevention
If a fall will have consequences, wearing a helmet is always a good idea.

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS

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