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DENALI 2019 Denali myths "..Expedition-style double boot, with high altitude expedition-style inner boot is mandatory.." https://www.rmiguides.com/denali/west-buttress/equipment I used to be fan of double boots, I owned 4(!) different pairs. None of them were good - a day climb at 3,000m will end with wet feet - double plastic boots don't breathe. I met a guide on Rainier in 2018. He was wearing a pair of modern Spantics. "Not so good" he said - "your Nepals look great though". Consider this: Denali Base Camp is located 4,000 meters below the summit. If your boots are warm enough for the summit, they will be boiling hot 4,000 meters below - no single pair of boots will be good in the range of 25°C difference. So you will have wet socks, and probably blisters, and that's what often happens. Inner boot liners will get wet too. Once liners are wet, the insulation stops working, so the boots effectively lose insulation power. And then, people buy even warmer boots, which of course become wet even sooner. We have climbed at temperatures below -20°C with our core "regular" alpine boots, just added two layers of extra insulation. Were warm and dry, and never understood why we would need Phantoms or Millets. So we climbed Denali in our "regular" alpine boots. Only above 14K camp we added one extra insualtion layer, and on the summit day added one more (it was -19.7°C at 17K camp). Universal approach of layer system is the key, as always. If cold - add layer, if warm - remove layer. If you want to know our boot system (including camp footwear and other tips how to keep your feet warm), come tomorrow, don't forget to post your question(s) here: https://forms.gle/UiFGocCQP1CBFfty8 PHOTO: I used to be fan and proud owner of these. Not anymore.  |
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本帖最后由 vera 于 2019-7-2 21:45 编辑 TEN DENALI MOMENTS 1. Windy corner
2. Storm at 14K
4. Autobahn
5. Pig hill
6. Summit!
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2020 (5 years ago) Grand Canyon, AZ 2019 (6 years ago) Training for Denali - climbing steep snow, 96 days to departure    2016 (9 years ago) Guadalupe Peak, the highest peak in Texas state    |
2020 (5 years ago) San Jacinto Peak 3,302m, California     2018 (7 years ago) Alpine Practice - Hauling Systems  2016 (9 years ago) Humphreys Peak (3,851m), the highest peak in Arizona    |
2019 (6 years ago) Training for Denali (105 days to departure) - climbing fixed ropes.      2013 (12 years ago) Hollyburn - Strachan    2021 (4 years ago) BCMC trail  |
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2016 (9 years ago) Seymour 1-2-3 At 1st peak (Pump)  At 2nd peak (Tim Jones)   At 3rd peak ("real" Seymour)    2019 (6 years ago) Training for Denali, 118 days to Departure. Snowcamping at Dinky Peak, 1 night.  |
2019 ( 6 years ago) With Denali in mind at 2nd Peak. 120 days before departure.   2017 (8 years ago) Hollyburn - Strachan    |
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Train Glacier Traverse
Saddle Mountain (2427 m) Canada-AB
Pocaterra Ridge (2678 m) Canada-AB
Rawson Ridge (Attempt) (2440 m) Canada-AB
Little Arethusa (2767 m) Canada-AB
Smutwood Peak (2680 m) Canada-AB
Tent Ridge (2538 m) Canada-AB
Mauna Kea (4205 m) USA-HI
Mount Ike (1774 m) Japan
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Mount Carthew (2636 m) Canada-AB
Mount Saint Piran (2635 m) Canada-AB
Stawamus Chief - First Summit (600 m) Canada-BC
The Papoose (140 m) Canada-BC
The Camel (1475 m) Canada-BC
Sky Pilot Mountain (2031 m) Canada-BC
Sapporo - Japan
Japan. On Michinoku Coastal Trail (Length: Approximately 1,025 kilometers)
Kumano Kodo Trail Japan
Fuji-san (3776 m) Japan
West Coast Trail Canada-BC
Ptarmigan Ridge USA-WA
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Mount Hood (3426 m) USA-OR
Mount Rainier (4391 m) USA-WA
Mount Baker (3284 m) USA-WA
Ha Ling Peak (2474 m) Canada-AB
Mount Jimmy Simpson - East Peak (2760 m) Canada-AB
East End of Rundle (2567 m) Canada-AB
Mount Baldy (2192 m) Canada-AB
Opal Ridge High Point (2605 m) Canada-AB
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2002 (23 years ago) Canyonlands National Park, Uthan    2013 (12 years ago) At Seymour 2nd Peak (Tim Jones)  2016 (9 years ago) Climbing Crown Couloir       2017 (8 years ago) St.Marks   .. enroute to Unnecessary South  2018 (7 years ago) Unnecessary South trip   2019 04:27 a.m. (6 years ago) 2nd night at Dinkey Peak  |
2019 (6 years ago) Training for Denali, 124 days to departure. 2016 (9 years ago) Unnecessary South trip  2013 (12 years ago) St. Benedict  |
2001 (23 year ago) Texas, USA   2009 (15 years ago) China   2010 (14 years ago) Haikou, China   2014 (10 years ago) Shanghai, China   2015 (9 years ago) - BCMC Trail  Mt Rainier at skyline as seen from Dam  |
2001 (23 years ago) Texas, USA   2009 (15 years ago) Shanghai, China    2010 (14 years ago) HaiKou, China   2012 (12 years ago) Rainbow Lake trip, BC    2014 (10 years ago) Shanghai, China     2018 (7 years ago). Training for Denali, 126 days to departure. Testing our brand-new expedition tent and NeoAir sleeping pads, snow camp on Dinkey Peak.  |
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2011 (13 years ago) Mt. Baldwin, organized by 无非, photo by White Snow  2017 (7 years ago) Chief Alpine Edition. Rappel section at Raven's Castle.  2018 (6 years ago) Training for Denali, 130 days before departure. Travelling in blizzard conditions, testing customized goggles for anti-fogging. Finally tested our brand new ArcTeryx Beta SV bib pants. Great!  2021 (3 years ago) Hollyburn on an Arctic Cold Day         |
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2016 (8 years ago) Chun Sek Lam, 64, and Roy Tin Hou Lee, 43, went on Christmas Day, when they set off on a snowshoe hike from the Cypress Mountain Resort parking lot.
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2018 (6 years ago) GG chalet 2020 (4 years ago) Hollyburn hike and Alpine Practice          |
2008 (16 years ago) snow in Vancouver 2018 (6 years ago) BCMC Trail  |
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2017 (7 years ago) Random Alpine Tips https://www.crossna.org/thread-28900-1-1.html  More photos here: http://bit.ly/34suv9L 2021 (3 years ago) BCMC trail + Dam + Little Goat + Goat Ridge     |
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