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发表于 2015-5-2 17:44:06
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两张这条路线上的雪檐相片(2011年6月的游记)
博士最近游记中有关雪檐的一个片断:
PanShiBo
From previous day from Keith's Hut I saw there was a huge cornice hanging above the North side, but obviously underestimated how big it was. After climbing the Aussie we had only 20 m left to the peak, supposedly just a "simple ridge walk". I used my ice axe to probe the path for holes in front of me, so every step would give it a number of hard blows. The last blow was the hardest, and all looked good so I prepared to make a step when suddenly a violent woof of air pushed me to the right - a what seemed to be a part of the ridge just next to me disappeared. Just like that - it was there and then it was not. No sound. The air rushed to fill temporary vacuum in place of now gone huge mass of ice and I was almost made to be part of that replacement. For a few seconds there was no sound and only then we heard the fallen cornice breaking into pieces way down below in the Central Couloir. I stood for a moment not moving, looking at Vera. Then asked her "Did you see that?".
Photo: The Cornice that would collapse. Above Central Couloir of Joffre Peak
Moments after if was gone.
登山宝典(Mounteering: The freedom of the hill)一书里一段有关雪檐的建议:
"The safest courst along a corniced crest is well behind the probable fracture line. Do not be misled by appearances. On a Mature cornice, the probable line of fracture could be 30feet(10 meters) or more back from the lip---farther back than you might expected upon examination. Usually the fracture line is not visible. Look for any crack or indentation in the snow, which indicates a cornice that has partially collapsed and recently been covered with new snow.
The colder the weather, the most secure the cornice. The safest strategy with cornices is to avoid them. Do not travel on them,under them, or throught them" |
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