了解local mountain－－－Mount Rexford资料

This is the picture from Alpine Select. The south peak is on the left with the East Ridge of S. peak at left and the Pillar Of Pi projecting out of shadows in the centre. The "Pi Pillar" is above and right of this, from this angle you can see right through the "five hole" between the legs. The N-S peak gully (FWA Serl et al 1981, miscredited to deJong etal 1989 in Beckey Vol III) is obvious. The East Ridge of Rexford goes up the slight spur catching light onto the snowy crest then to the summit. The NE ridge is on the right, the start of this most commonly used today is to go up a dyke across the gully from the start of the east ridge.

Access: The best access to these routes is to follow a vague trail (improved in summer 2001 by Mike Spagnut and Shaun Neufeld) from Center Creek logging road down to the creek. Cross on a log and follow trail through fireweed to rockslides. In this picture, the approach route follows the obvious snow up to the base of Pillar of Pi then traverse above the bush rightward to reach the other routes. The crest of the E ridge of Rexford is usually snow-free by late July.

Markings: Beaten trail with some ribbons and aluminium markers

Access To: Mount Rexford, Illusion Peaks, Nesakwatch Spires

General Route: From a spur road off the Nesakwatch Creek FSR, the trail takes you under the South Illusion Peak wall and into the Rexford/Nesakwatch basin.

How To Find: At about 31km along the Chilliwack Lake Road, the Nesakwatch Creek FSR takes off south. Conditions of this road are always changing. The Mount Rexford Trail starts at about 7.5 km where a spur road deviates left (northeast). Walk up the deteriorating road and find red and yellow flagging at a somewhat boot beaten path. This trail is a Paul Binkert "climbers access" trail, so it is steep and unrelenting. Follow the trail to the top of the clearcut and enter the forest. Eventually you enter a gulley below the walls of South Illusion Peak. When you break out of the sub alpine timber you enter a rocky bowl where you can access many climbing routes.

Waypoints: Geo-WGS84   UTM-WGS84   UTM-NAD27c   Help
49:02.1-121:33.8=Approximate Trailhead
49:02.2-121:33.9=Walls of South Illusion Peak
49:02.5-121:32.0=Rocky Bowl beneath Rexford

1. West ridge (1951) Sparling & Genschorek. Class 4+. a rope and some slings; maybe a few hexes. From campsite below South Nesakwatch, gain toe of west ridge via snow gully or class 3 scrambling. Follow ridge easily to false summit. Turn false summit on climbers' left and up gully behind (flakes and blocks, class 4 - cairns mark route) to ridge behind false summit. Walk easily to true summit block. Make two or three jamming moves up crack on NW corner of summit block (can use arete as well, bear hug style) and finish either left or right to summit. Climbing is class 4 and most parties traditionally place a bit of gear to justify lugging it up there. Rappels are possible at all cruxes in descent. See topo.

2. Northeast ridge (1969) Burton brothers, C. Oloman, S. Saba. Class 4-5. Rope and a few slings, maybe a few nuts.. This is the longest route on the mountain. The toe of the ridge was originally gained via ledges on the north side starting from below the pocket glacier. Most parties nowadays use the dyke across from the start of the East Ridge. Gain ridge crest by either start (maybe class 4). Follow ridge crest easily to near summit. A few 4th-easy 5th class leads finish the route, trending left near the summit. If you don't mind a lot of downclimbing this is a good descent after doing the E ridge.

3. East ridge (1973) J Bryan, W McNeill. 5.7. Rope, slings, set of cams or hexes, a few med-large nuts.. The east ridge is gained via an ascent towards Pillar of Pi buttress from Center Cr up a 3rd class rubble gully. At top of gully, climb right across terraces to ridge toe. From near right bottom edge of ridge toe climb left and up following most prominent bush line and avoiding steep blank sections as necessary. Trees provide pro. Similar in nature to St Vitus Dance approach (Squamish) but more vegetated. From treeline at top of lower buttress climb long 3rd class grass and block ridge to upper ridge. Follow ridge crest(up to 5.6) veering right on ledges to avoid all crux walls. Near top cross left to gain class 2 ledges leading to summit. Technical crux is on treed lower buttress but most enjoyable climbing is upper 2/3. Most cracks are hand size or wider.

4. Southwest flank Class 3-4. boulder deflectors and durable helmet in summer; ice axe at other times. From west ridge descend into SW bowl. Climb huge gully leading to notch between false summit and main summit - lots of loose boulders when not snow filled. Same crux getting onto final summit block as West Ridge. Possibly a good route in early season when snow-filled and stable; beware afternoon heating in spring.

5. South ridge (and southeast couloir) (from east - 1981) from east - Bitz, Jones, Serl. from west - unknown. 4th class ridge; 50-55 degree snow in couloir. light rock rack for ridge - ice gear for couloir. The prominent ridge from the deep notch between Pi Pillar and the Main Summit may be gained as per the SW couloir, or climbed from the East Ridge approach via a very aesthetic narrow snow/ice gully. Once in the notch, follow S ridge to summit over blocky steps. The ridge crest is probably better in summer; in winter link the SE couloir to the upper SW couloir if it is stable and snow filled for a less multimodal ascent.

6. The Priest-Coupe (NE couloir) (1970) L. Priest, R. Coupe. snow/ice to 50 degrees; bergschrunds; 5th class rock. ice tools, crampons, minimalist rock rack. Climb obvious ice line on east side starting below the unclimbed "true north" face, to col with South Nesakwatch. Avoid or cross schrunds as necessary. Finish directly up to summit on low-mid 5th flakes and blocks. Looks like an amazing climb few people have ever done, some of the most readily available fall ice in the Chilliwack alpine.