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Some photos

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PanShiBo

发布时间: 2017-1-3 19:39

正文摘要:

PHOTOS OF 2017-2018 1. The summary of 2017 here: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=181756 2. 2018: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=181830 ---------------------------------- ...

PanShiBo 发表于 2019-7-1 06:53:11

DENALI 2019

Denali myths

"..Expedition-style double boot, with high altitude expedition-style inner boot is mandatory.."
https://www.rmiguides.com/denali/west-buttress/equipment

I used to be fan of double boots, I owned 4(!) different pairs. None of them were good - a day climb at 3,000m will end with wet feet - double plastic boots don't breathe. I met a guide on Rainier in 2018. He was wearing a pair of modern Spantics. "Not so good" he said - "your Nepals look great though". Consider this: Denali Base Camp is located 4,000 meters below the summit. If your boots are warm enough for the summit, they will be boiling hot 4,000 meters below - no single pair of boots will be good in the range of 25°C difference. So you will have wet socks, and probably blisters, and that's what often happens. Inner boot liners will get wet too. Once liners are wet, the insulation stops working, so the boots effectively lose insulation power. And then, people buy even warmer boots, which of course become wet even sooner.

We have climbed at temperatures below -20°C with our core "regular" alpine boots, just added two layers of extra insulation. Were warm and dry, and never understood why we would need Phantoms or Millets.

So we climbed Denali in our "regular" alpine boots. Only above 14K camp we added one extra insualtion layer, and on the summit day added one more (it was -19.7°C at 17K camp). Universal approach of layer system is the key, as always. If cold - add layer, if warm - remove layer. If you want to know our boot system (including camp footwear and other tips how to keep your feet warm), come tomorrow, don't forget to post your question(s) here: https://forms.gle/UiFGocCQP1CBFfty8

PHOTO: I used to be fan and proud owner of these. Not anymore.

vera 发表于 2019-7-2 21:43:22

本帖最后由 vera 于 2019-7-2 21:45 编辑

TEN DENALI MOMENTS

1. Windy corner

2. Storm at 14K

3. Moving to 17K

4. Autobahn

5. Pig hill

6. Summit!

7. Descend in storm

8. Bivy at 16K ridge

9. Descending fixed line with expedition load

10. Night descend from 14K to Basecamp

PanShiBo 发表于昨天 07:58

On This Day, May-17

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 6/23
Moved the cache to below Windy Corner. Meanwhile, the weather turned bad with a whiteout and strong winds, so we didn't dare to cross the traverse (which was a very wise decision) and cached in the rocks. We are staying at the 11K camp.

Happy with current blood oxygen level

Our tent at 11K camp

Motorcycle Hill looks easy (but it is not). The mountain at the back is not Denali yet, it is "just" West Buttress.

Ready to move cache

Let's go!

We just reached the top of Motorcycle Hill, but not before Vera partially dropped into a small crevasse up to her waist. The West Buttress is visible in the distance, and Squirrel Hill rises on the right. We somehow underestimated Squirrel Hill, even though our guidebook clearly recommended 'protect it when icy.' A year later, at home, I read that a climber had lost their footing and fallen to their death on this hill. Although the hill looks 'easy,' especially after topping Motorcycle Hill, the consequences of a slip could be very severe, as the drop on the left is huge.

Whiteout

Finally, see the camp

Back at the 11K camp

PanShiBo 发表于 3 天前

On this day, May 15

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 4/23

Well-deserved rest day at Camp 3. Summits so far: 0. Summit temperatures: below -30°C.

Climbing team returning home. No summit: "..it was cold, real cold.."

Inside tent

The Alaskan view from Kahiltna Glacier

PanShiBo 发表于 5 天前

On this day, May-13

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 2/23

Our very first camp. Kahiltna Glacier. N63.02578 W151.18675 at 2,308m

"Ski Hill" - moving camp to 2,866m

PanShiBo 发表于 6 天前

On this day, May-12

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 1/23

The day has come! After two years of hard training and research, we are finally flying to the Base camp on Denali.

At the Base Camp. Unloading our gear (246lb)

Digging up our first emergency cache.

Leaving the Base Camp

Every next leg of the expedition will be harder than the previous, in geometrical progression.

PanShiBo 发表于 7 天前

On this day, May-11

2019 (5 years ago) Waiting for the weather, Talkeetna, Alaska

The best guide book on the standard route. I wish we had studied it better than we did.