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On this day, May-30
2019 (5 years ago) Summit Denali, Alaska
I woke up at 02:00 a.m. Vera already eyes wide open, waiting for me. It was quiet outside and the skies were clear. Digital thermometer measured snow temperature -19.7°C.
After melting snow and eating we dressed up and left the 17K camp at 04:45 a.m. Although we trained for the Autobahn traverse on Mt. Hood believing it was twice harder than the Autobahn, reality was precisely opposite: Autobahn turned out to be twice harder than what we expected. Hard snow, no self-belay possible, ice-axe is only good for balance. We didn't have extra ice tool, only one straight axe each. So when that 50m unprotected stretch did come, we both realized that one slip of any of us will end it all. It was only 20 meters of unprotected traverse, but we got enough adrenaline pumping!
Autobahn followed by Denali pass, then Zebra rocks, followed by Football field. Finally, Pig Hill came - real challenge left for the very end, 300m up to the ridge. This got us a bit slower.
Two guides passed by, each with one client. One pair was very fast - I didn't see ropes, axes or big packs. The other pair was slower. When we finally got on the summit ridge, the forecasted weather front started moving in - it was now a whiteout. The first pair guide-client was already descending, and the second pair was about to start summit ridge. Then we heard one guide saying to another: "..if you don't see us on the ridge by 6 p.m. then...". What "then" meant he didn't bother to explain, it was obvious. It was also obvious to us that we'd better hurry before the weather gets worse.
Now it was 100% milk. When my ice axe didn't meet the surface, I looked to the right, and realized we were walking on the edge. Fixed pros came handy. Checking GPS - another 30 meters..10..and.. WE ARE ON THE SUMMIT OF DENALI!! It was exactly 15:00 p.m.
We were the only two people there. Wind was already blowing, so we only took one selfie and a couple of single hero shots with the summit mark. Also sent an InReach "On the summit" message. No time for our trademark - "California Climber's Salute" really. We must go down.
In a whiteout I lost our track on the ridge and dropped down too soon, where I tried to place an ice screw, when I saw a climber walking above me towards the summit. That was the track we just lost, luckily it cost me only a few meters down. So we reached the Pig Hill exit and saw another climber waiting for his partner to come up. We stopped for a drink, and learned that the guy was from BC, and from the BCMC club, which we used to be members of for many years. The world is small. His companion came up, no gloves. Why? "To keep things in balance" - strange answer.
At the foot of Pig Hill yet another team of three. Italians. They just finished climbing the route "Orient Express". "Do you have any water? Our stove is broken" - one of them produced MSR Whisperlite with a broken hose. Vera got our two thermoses and offered them all the remaining water we got - not much, one cup really, they mixed it with snow and shared. Three big guys, one shared cup of melted snow - I knew how terribly dry and thirsty it would feel, being that thirsty myself just one day ago.
The wind was blowing hard. When we passed Zebra rocks, a large commercial team was on the way up. I knew that the guides just took them for a walk - a storm was building up and the day was winding down. No way to reach the summit. Still, better than nothing. At least they made it through Autobahn.
On Denali pass the wind was pretty strong, and Vera later said to me that she was sure we were going to spend the night just there in an emergency snow pit.
However, descending the Autobahn was still doable, we saw all the markers and pros and even passed the 50m section without too much worry, protecting it with an ice axe.
The lower part of the Autobahn was not protected, but still steep enough to get hurt. I already saw the end of it, and the tents of the 17K camp when I heard a sound like seagulls make when flying around. "Scree-e-e-e". I thought it was rather strange and even looked up in the sky trying to see those strange birds - found no birds up there of course, and then looked back. It was Vera! She slipped and fell, now stopped in perfect self-arrest on her stomach, not moving. Wow! Would it be a bit more slippery, like in the Shasta accident, we would fall both. Just at the end of the climb, just as what the book said - many accidents happen on Autobahn on the way down and we could have added yet one of those.
Arrived at the tent, took off crampons. It was 21:00 p.m. We did Denali! - the thought made our blood boil. Nothing, absolutely nothing else mattered. We had our tent, enough fuel to melt snow, a lot of food and warm sleeping bags. And no more up, tomorrow we go home!
Ready!
Approaching Denali Pass
With Foraker at the back.
Approaching Zebra rocks
On Denali Pass
Zebra Rocks
Final steps
Official marker - Denali summit!!!
Summit photos
Back to Denali Pass
Autobahn
We are back!
Some footage
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