Mt. McGuire this Saturday?

归去来兮 · 发表于 2012-6-4 11:55:53

Anybody want to do Mt. McGuire (in Chilliwack) this Saturday if the weather permits?

lulululu · 发表于 2012-6-4 12:31:50

归去来兮
Anybody want to do Mt. McGuire (in Chilliwack) this Saturday if the weather permits?

which route?

Info from Bivouac.

1. Southeast ridge
(1906) J. MacArthur and survey party. short hike, easy scramble (class 2). From the Chilliwack Lake road, follow the Slesse Borden FSR to its end, then follow the Mount McGuire trail to treeline. Follow trail more steeply up scree and limestone on E flank past cave entrances to gain SE ridge of summit, which is exposed but easy scrambling.

2. Northwest ridge/north face 35-40 degree snow,
3rd class or harder rock. Recorded as two routes in the Fairley guide, the lines are variations on the same theme. Gain the NW ridge from lower Tamihi Creek roads and follow it to near the lake below N face, or gain this lake from spurs heading W from roads in lower Borden Creek. The NW ridge can be climbed directly (one pitch class 4-5 near summit) or one can move left and climb 40 degree snow on the face in early season; there are two class 3 scrambling sections through rock bands to cross on the later route.

3. North ridge Class 3.
This ridge divides the N and E faces. It might be called the NE ridge, but its aspect is due north. It can be gained from logging roads branching off Borden Creek at mid-height, or by traversing across scree below the E face from the standard route. Looks like a nice scramble. Before logging roads ran so high into the Borden bowl, this was the most commonly used line of ascent.

4. South face
(1980's) M. de Jong . class 5?. There are massive limestone ribs on the south flank of McGuire. These are broken near the summit, but more solid lower down in Tamihi valley. A second hand report indicates that Max de Jong climbed a technical rock route somewhere on this side of the mountain in the late 1980's.

归去来兮 · 发表于 2012-6-4 14:26:22

from north side, quite straightforward:
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=46431

in summer you can even drive up to 1300M on logging road

lulululu · 发表于 2012-6-4 14:59:57

那你召集一下？我先报个名，有点怕拖后腿（体能比你差很多又恐高:oops: ）早点集合？e.g. 6:30am在KingsWay夹Willingdon的Esso加油站旁边停车场?

归去来兮 · 发表于 2012-6-4 15:14:50

你帮我代召吧:D , 6:30am Esso加油站

难度应该和cloudburst差不多, 拔高1000米. 从NE ridge上

如果下雨就取消

jsolder · 发表于 2012-6-4 15:16:58

有兴趣。
上上周去的cheam peak，大雾中登顶，啥也没看到。

lulululu · 发表于 2012-6-4 15:49:00

归去来兮
你帮我代召吧:D , 6:30am Esso加油站

难度应该和cloudburst差不多, 拔高1000米. 从NE ridge上

如果下雨就取消

你查看一下召集贴，特别是“必备装备”要不要修改添加？Thanks!
https://www.crossna.org/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=15801

归去来兮 · 发表于 2012-6-4 15:57:49

"必要装备"已经很全了, 有ice axe的也带上吧.

我有一把多余的可提供.

稍后提供具体的行程资料

lulululu · 发表于 2012-6-4 17:38:29

Just saw a new TR on CT:

http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48527

It seems that crampon/ice axe is a must, Most ppl here do not have any snow mountaineering training or experience of traversing on the steep and hard packed snow slopes....I am a little bit worried...

Any thought or suggestion?

归去来兮 · 发表于 2012-6-4 22:01:46

there is only 1 steep section before reaching the ridge. However in this weather crampons won't help much.

it's neither exposed nor dangerous, ice axe will be a good tool to pull you up. i will post the route plan tomorrow when i have enough information.

and i am open for any backup plan if the weather is not good enough for route finding.

if you guys are not comfortable, i can post it on BCMC/ACC as well so we got more companies. :D

here is a brief route on high part:

lulululu · 发表于 2012-6-5 07:03:18

归去来兮
there is only 1 steep section before reaching the ridge. However in this weather crampons won't help much.

it's neither exposed nor dangerous, ice axe will be a good tool to pull you up. i will post the route plan tomorrow when i have enough information.

and i am open for any backup plan if the weather is not good enough for route finding.

if you guys are not comfortable, i can post it on BCMC/ACC as well so we got more companies. :D

here is a brief route on high part:

谢谢领导回复，我也刚给上周六走过Mt. McGuire Trail的CT上的Karl发email问询情况. 想请领导到时候在现场指导一下其它队友们穿雪坡爬雪坡及冰稿止动的技巧，我也会多带两个冰镐提供给队友练习.不过现在看周末天气不太好.

jsolder · 发表于 2012-6-5 08:47:18

个人认为如果坡度很大的话，冰爪比雪鞋管用。尤其是下山，只能背着雪鞋下了。
上次我们去cheam peak，2个穿冰爪的，2个雪鞋的。下山时雪鞋基本走不了，只好取下来背着走了。
相关视频：http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNDA1Mjk3ODU2.html

归去来兮 · 发表于 2012-6-5 10:58:28

jsolder
个人认为如果坡度很大的话，冰爪比雪鞋管用。尤其是下山，只能背着雪鞋下了。
上次我们去cheam peak，2个穿冰爪的，2个雪鞋的。下山时雪鞋基本走不了，只好取下来背着走了。
相关视频：http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNDA1Mjk3ODU2.html

Considering about the time we get there, the snow will be very slushy. Also it's below the treeline, that's why i said crampons may not help in such condition. Mt. Cheam is higher than McGuire, so you do get consolidated snow layer above 1500m.

However, it's always good to have crampons with you (like myself i always have my crampons in my pack on shoulder seasons). And i have extra one if someone wants to borrow it.

So are you in or not? :)

beijihu · 发表于 2012-6-5 11:18:43

:ding:

What is the temperature could be?

I was wondering if the snow is hard enough to walk on without snowshoes?

lulululu · 发表于 2012-6-5 11:36:26

FYI:

Email reply I just got from Karl

Gloria

For the steep portion higher up in the gully, a definite yes for ice axe and crampons. May have worked out okay a week earlier, but snow conditions change. There is one spot of 75 degrees which I considered a dangerous angle.

We got half way, and exposure was not an issue. Side slope facing south was quite hard, steep, and and a slippery 2 to 3 inch layer on top. Subject to some sliding.

Since we have been there, snow conditions could have changed again. Part of the ridgeline system was walkable, but did not want to risk a sketchy line of cornices which seemed not really stable. Could break off with very bad consequences.

We need some clear skies to harden the slippery upper layer on the south aspect, or more snow to make for a larger depth of soft firm snow to make it more easily walkable.

Karl

归去来兮 · 发表于 2012-6-5 14:18:44

lulululu
FYI:

Email reply I just got from Karl

[quote]Gloria

For the steep portion higher up in the gully, a definite yes for ice axe and crampons. May have worked out okay a week earlier, but snow conditions change. There is one spot of 75 degrees which I considered a dangerous angle.

We got half way, and exposure was not an issue. Side slope facing south was quite hard, steep, and and a slippery 2 to 3 inch layer on top. Subject to some sliding.

Since we have been there, snow conditions could have changed again. Part of the ridgeline system was walkable, but did not want to risk a sketchy line of cornices which seemed not really stable. Could break off with very bad consequences.

We need some clear skies to harden the slippery upper layer on the south aspect, or more snow to make for a larger depth of soft firm snow to make it more easily walkable.

Karl

[/quote]

Karl has no idea about what he is talking about :D . i've only done slope at 75 degree once in my life so far(that was the first ascent of Mt. Dreadnaught north face)

Speaking of measurement steepness on slope, please read this one then you will laugh in tears how people constantly mention the steepness ridicoulsly :twisted:
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=46454

jsolder · 发表于 2012-6-5 14:51:26

归去来兮
[quote]jsolder
个人认为如果坡度很大的话，冰爪比雪鞋管用。尤其是下山，只能背着雪鞋下了。
上次我们去cheam peak，2个穿冰爪的，2个雪鞋的。下山时雪鞋基本走不了，只好取下来背着走了。
相关视频：http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNDA1Mjk3ODU2.html

Considering about the time we get there, the snow will be very slushy. Also it's below the treeline, that's why i said crampons may not help in such condition. Mt. Cheam is higher than McGuire, so you do get consolidated snow layer above 1500m.

However, it's always good to have crampons with you (like myself i always have my crampons in my pack on shoulder seasons). And i have extra one if someone wants to borrow it.

So are you in or not? :)[/quote]

我去，呵呵
如果你那个extra是绑爪，可以借给我用吗？

归去来兮 · 发表于 2012-6-5 20:59:33

jsolder
[quote]归去来兮
[quote]jsolder
个人认为如果坡度很大的话，冰爪比雪鞋管用。尤其是下山，只能背着雪鞋下了。
上次我们去cheam peak，2个穿冰爪的，2个雪鞋的。下山时雪鞋基本走不了，只好取下来背着走了。
相关视频：http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNDA1Mjk3ODU2.html

Considering about the time we get there, the snow will be very slushy. Also it's below the treeline, that's why i said crampons may not help in such condition. Mt. Cheam is higher than McGuire, so you do get consolidated snow layer above 1500m.

However, it's always good to have crampons with you (like myself i always have my crampons in my pack on shoulder seasons). And i have extra one if someone wants to borrow it.

So are you in or not? :)[/quote]

我去，呵呵
如果你那个extra是绑爪，可以借给我用吗？[/quote]

是绑爪, 可以借给你用

jsolder · 发表于 2012-6-6 07:59:08

好的，多谢！

归去来兮 · 发表于 2012-6-7 07:45:44

天气不行, trip取消了

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Mt. McGuire this Saturday?

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