Who can give some advice to summit Mount Rainier

beijihu · 发表于 2013-7-1 14:21:45

That must be a stunning view on top of the Mt Rainier. I'm sure it won't be the same as looking through the window from airplane.

I knew there are a lots of hikers have reached the summit of MT Rainier.

I'll be very appreciated if someone could kindly post some tips and the best route for me. Is there a short and easy route to reach the summit within 10~12 hours?

Any topo map with route will be very helpful.

Any safety concern that you'd like to share.

I am expecting your reply.

Thank you in advance!

beijihu · 发表于 2013-7-1 14:41:56

I found some info from http://www.summitpost.org/mount-rainier/150291

other info from http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=1138388

It seems that Disappointment Cleaver is the easiest way but most of the hikers start from camp muir.

I think DC route pass camp muir on the way to the summit.

panolover · 发表于 2013-7-1 15:11:05

beijihu
I found some info from http://www.summitpost.org/mount-rainier/150291

other info from http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=1138388

It seems that Disappointment Cleaver is the easiest way but most of the hikers start from campo muir :bj:

这个坛子里的
everie
Wachaiboz

都是技术攀登路线登顶的
https://www.crossna.org/forum.php?mod=redirect&ptid=13754
https://www.crossna.org/forum.php?mod=redirect&ptid=2744

jsolder，因为队友的关系没能登顶。

可以到MITBBS的outdoor（户外版）问一下

beijihu · 发表于 2013-7-1 16:22:03

panolover
[quote]beijihu
I found some info from http://www.summitpost.org/mount-rainier/150291

other info from http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=1138388

It seems that Disappointment Cleaver is the easiest way but most of the hikers start from campo muir :bj:

这个坛子里的
everie
Wachaiboz

都是技术攀登路线登顶的
https://www.crossna.org/forum.php?mod=redirect&ptid=13754
https://www.crossna.org/forum.php?mod=redirect&ptid=2744

jsolder，因为队友的关系没能登顶。

可以到MITBBS的outdoor（户外版）问一下[/quote]

谢谢老弟推荐.

从everie游记, DC路线应该是首选:

常规攀登路线：Disappointment Cleaver
攀登起点：Paradise (石铺路) 5420 ft/1652 m
垂直拔高：8991 ft/2740 m
单程距离：8 mi/12.87 km ( Golden Ears )
难度级别（Alpine）：II-III
最大冰雪坡度：35 (Sigard peak)

WanchaiBoz · 发表于 2013-7-3 07:18:43

Both 归去来兮 and Alex have climbed the Rainier and you can reach out to them for advice too.

DC route is your first choice and you need to rope up. Must have basic mountaineering skills and you wanna stay in Camp Muir for one nite since you start the climb around mid-nite.

Weather is a major factor for success. You will have mild high altitude sickness and make sure you are hydrated during the climb. My 3 lites was not enough! I was so dehydrated when climbing down.

Consider joining the group I was with and detail info in my post.

Good luck and have fun.

Rick

beijihu · 发表于 2013-7-3 17:05:11

WanchaiBoz
Both 归去来兮 and Alex have climbed the Rainier and you can reach out to them for advice too.

DC route is your first choice and you need to rope up. Must have basic mountaineering skills and you wanna stay in Camp Muir for one nite since you start the climb around mid-nite.

Weather is a major factor for success. You will have mild high altitude sickness and make sure you are hydrated during the climb. My 3 lites was not enough! I was so dehydrated when climbing down.

Consider joining the group I was with and detail info in my post.

Good luck and have fun.

Rick

Thank you very much for your advice.

1> Do you remember how maby ladders need to cross and the steepest slopes?

2> Is it possible to rent ice axe and crampon near MT Rainier?

3> How long it took you to summit from camp muir? Did you start at midnight from camp muir then walk back to parking lot that day?

4> How many hours total you use from camp muir to summit then back to camp muir.

I need calculate volume of food and water/stove to boil snow.

I want to buy some medicine for high altitude sickness or I might carry some oxygen cylinder just in case.

everie · 发表于 2013-7-3 17:42:34

打字太慢了，有问题可以给我打电话（电话见短信）。

WanchaiBoz · 发表于 2013-7-3 18:21:06

1> Do you remember how maby ladders need to cross and the steepest slopes?

Depends on the season. I did not have to cross any ladders! Snow bridges were stable at that time. Both IMG and RMI would secured the ladders along the route ahead of time.

2> Is it possible to rent ice axe and crampon near MT Rainier?

Yes. http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/

3> How long it took you to summit from camp muir? Did you start at midnight from camp muir then walk back to parking lot that day?

Our "slow" team took over 10 hrs from Camp Muir to the summit. Started around mid-nite and back down to the Camp the next day around 3pm. Packed and left for the parking lot the same afternoon. I would recommend to stay in Camp Muir for one more nite to rest up afterward.

4> How many hours total you use from camp muir to summit then back to camp muir.

See above.

I need calculate volume of food and water/stove to boil snow.

I want to buy some medicine for high altitude sickness or I might carry some oxygen cylinder just in case.

I don't think you need the medicine and the oxygen cylinder!! Rainier is well under 5000m!
Just rest in the Camp for one full day before summit. Drink and eat some snacks every hour or so to combat the altitude sickness. Take your time coz this is not a race.

I wouldn't climb it solo no matter what and strongly suggest you not to!

beijihu · 发表于 2013-7-3 18:29:31

Thank you very much! You are so warm hearted.

I'll go to camp muir to taker a look first then plan a trip later.

beijihu · 发表于 2013-7-3 18:31:19

everie
打字太慢了，有问题可以给我打电话（电话见短信）。

Thank you very much for your advice and suggestion.

I'll start from visiter center to camp muir to familiar with the trail first.

jsolder · 发表于 2013-7-3 20:16:01

原则上一个人上是不允许的，最少要2人结組。
如果你能力超强，你可以早6点从山下出发(center)，下午1点左右到营地休息(木屋里做饭睡觉都可以.)，这样可以省去帐篷的负重。当晚10点出发冲顶。
无论如何要在中午之前下到冰爆区以下，因为午后温度上升冰层不稳定，易出事故。
如果我再去，我就打算这么干。当然要找体力比我好的搭档。(像kitty那样的:-)。

beijihu · 发表于 2013-7-3 21:46:29

多谢jsolder指点.

先去探路, 试试运气.

Trailhead to camp muuir 14.5km
Ekevation gain 1426m
Start 1652m
Camp muir 3078m
Round trip 6~8 hours

感觉一下状态和环境, 希望能找到山友一起去.

hello_kitty · 发表于 2013-7-7 21:23:55

jsolder

如果我再去，我就打算这么干。当然要找体力比我好的搭档。(像kitty那样的:-)。

偶像要是肯带我去，我当然是求之不得，只是不知道自己有没有准备好去Rainer, 我是非常非常想去的。希望能有机会同行 :D

beijihu · 发表于 2013-7-8 15:31:35

Kitty 要去MT Rainier 登顶, 本周六和周日天气最适宜.

慢点儿上camp muir (4 hours)好好休息一下, camp muir to summit(6~8 hours).

I met a couple of guys that day, some of them use 3 hours to camp muir and 5 hours to the summit.

Buy permit first and find 2~3 climbers go for it.

jsolder · 发表于 2013-7-8 19:37:57

hello_kitty
[quote]jsolder

如果我再去，我就打算这么干。当然要找体力比我好的搭档。(像kitty那样的:-)。

偶像要是肯带我去，我当然是求之不得，只是不知道自己有没有准备好去Rainer, 我是非常非常想去的。希望能有机会同行 :D[/quote]

你的体能肯定没问题，末知因素有高海拔反应、负重、结组技术。
我今年夏天的状态很差，如果有可能成行，起码要有一个月的体能储备才可以。此外，安全问题很重要，就是万一有人掉进冰裂缝的救援能力不具备（我有一套滑轮装备，没用过。），当然这是万一。

hello_kitty · 发表于 2013-7-8 21:59:07

jsolder

你的体能肯定没问题，末知因素有高海拔反应、负重、结组技术。
我今年夏天的状态很差，如果有可能成行，起码要有一个月的体能储备才可以。此外，安全问题很重要，就是万一有人掉进冰裂缝的救援能力不具备（我有一套滑轮装备，没用过。），当然这是万一。

今年夏天肯定是不行了，我要陪父母在这里过夏天，基本上要skip掉所有的hiking活动，8月底回归组织。4000多米的海拔对我应该没问题，但是技术上还需要培训和准备，希望明年能有机会。
谢谢偶像和狐兄的建议。

lulululu · 发表于 2013-7-30 07:18:49

雷尼尔山 2012 攀登手记 (ZZ)

http://moria.tuchong.com/2980680/

归去来兮 · 发表于 2013-8-1 12:06:55

all you need is good weather, good weather, good weather!

DC路线无任何技术难度可言，唯一没有冰雪的section仅仅是class3 scramble （但是比较loose，头盔一定要带）

这是我在clubtread上的report：
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32706

我们出发的很晚，因为group size很大。天气状况好所以雪况也还不错。
但就是这样回来的时候还是遇到了雪崩。

一定要结绳组，最少3人（懂glacier rescue就知道2人绳组基本没用）。
去之前务必要practice glacier rescue，否则结绳也没用。

天气状况只要有一点疑问，就不要强迫登顶。恶劣天气下， DC路线可以变得非常危险。

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Who can give some advice to summit Mount Rainier

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