行走印记 * Summit Camping

PanShiBo

SUMMIT CAMPING LIST

2014-01-18        Mount Harvey
2014-01-25        Mount Seymour
2014-02-06        Mount Rohr (attempt)
2014-02-21        Strachan South
2014-03-12        Unnecessary South Peak
2014-03-17        Goat Mountain
2014-03-21        Goat Mountain
2014-04-13        Frosty E1
2014-05-03        De Pencier Bluff
2016.12.07 Pump Peak (Mount Seymour First Peak)
2017.01.11/12 Little Goat

PanShiBo

2014-01-18        Mount Harvey

At the summit of Mt. Harvey.

PanShiBo

2014-01-25        Mount Seymour

At the summit of Mount Seymour.

PanShiBo

2014-02-21        Strachan South

PanShiBo

2014-03-12        Unnecessary South Peak

PanShiBo

2014-03-17        Goat Mountain

PanShiBo

2014-03-21        Goat Mountain

棉花糖

爽！ :favor:  :b.cool:  :cb:

PanShiBo

2014-02-06 Mount Rohr

Not exactly at the summit: we run out of time and had to stop 110 m below the top on the west face. It was probably a good idea anyway, as during the night  it was -20°C inside the tent and a bit windy. 8)

PanShiBo

2014-04-13        Frosty Mountain East

PanShiBo

2016.12.07-08 Pump Peak (Mount Seymour First Peak)

Two of us camped at the Pump Peak. Nice views! 8)

棉花糖

博士的中文越来越高深了。 :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

PanShiBo

2016.12.07-08 Pump Peak - contd.

Strictly speaking, this was our overnight Alpine Practice. We actually learned a few important things, recalled a few more, and were happy that our discoveries didn't happen on a more serious trip. 8)

* Learned: We will never take JetBoil on a winter overnight alpine trip. We swear!

* Recalled: On a steep terrain, a climber must pass things to the climbing partner hand to hand, one thing at a time, not as a bunch.

* Recalled: On a steep terrain, every thing that is not attached to the body, must be always secured to an anchor (e.g. a backpack to a planted ice axe etc.) : there should be no item that could slide down or blown away on its own and be lost forever.

* Confirmed: -10°C with wind can feel like -20°C without.

* Confirmed: It is not hard to learn how to sleep in a tent at -20°C comfortably, like in a hotel room.

* Confirmed: Total winter overnight alpine gear weight among two climbers is about 80 lbs, anything less or more than that should be met with suspicion whether something important is missing or packed unnecessarily.

PHOTO: Traversing 40° south slope of Pump Peak.

lulululu

烧气罐低温肯定不行，要靠保持气罐暖和，我一般用温水泡着气罐烧（携带时也要注意保温）好像天冷也没问题。

PanShiBo

lulululu
烧气罐低温肯定不行，要靠保持气罐暖和，我一般用温水泡着气罐烧（携带时也要注意保温）好像天冷也没问题。

Yes, looking good! We like JetBoil, in the situations when it works! It is one of the best! But sorry, winter alpine is not just what JetBoil has been designed for. Even best JetBoil models' official range is not exceeding -6°C. We hoped to prove it otherwise, using the tricks like those above, but the test (-10°C combined with hard wind, even inside tent) just failed pathetically. Yes, we managed to make 0.75L of morning coffee, it took us about 1 hour of "warming inside jacket", "pouring warm water" over the canister, insulating the surface and other tricks available. It was fun, believe me! I almost got frostbite. But then it was just plain dead: our brand new JetBoil would't even ignite. Other stove worked just fine in the past - on Mt. Rohr for example we had -20°C with a lot harder winds, yet we had zero problems - but it was not JetBoil we used! 8)

lulululu

PanShiBo
[quote]lulululu
烧气罐低温肯定不行，要靠保持气罐暖和，我一般用温水泡着气罐烧（携带时也要注意保温）好像天冷也没问题。

Yes, looking good! We like JetBoil, in the situations when it works! It is one of the best! But sorry, winter alpine is not just what JetBoil has been designed for. Even best JetBoil models' official range is not exceeding -6°C. We hoped to prove it otherwise, using the tricks like those above, but the test (-10°C combined with hard wind, even inside tent) just failed pathetically. Yes, we managed to make 0.75L of morning coffee, it took us about 1 hour of "warming inside jacket", "pouring warm water" over the canister, insulating the surface and other tricks available. It was fun, believe me! I almost got frostbite. But then it was just plain dead: our brand new JetBoil would't even ignite. Other stove worked just fine in the past - on Mt. Rohr for example we had -20°C with a lot harder winds, yet we had zero problems - but it was not JetBoil we used! 8)[/quote]

Really appreciate your input, good to know and thank you very much! :r:

vera

2016.12.07-08 Pump Peak - contd.

PanShiBo

2016.12.07-08 Pump Peak - contd.

Although my pack's initial weight was ~50 lbs and Vera's was ~29 lbs, it is not how we actually distributed the load: Vera moved 6 lbs of gear from my pack to hers and on the way back she also secretly moved our climbing rope from my pack to hers..8)

vera

2016.12.07-08 Pump Peak - contd.

博士说的没错，为了这个一年一遇的每次只维持几日的“arctic front”，他准备了很多计划，只等着时机到了，看看谁更有福气会被他选中。我呢，随时standby。Any block shifts？Sorry，不行。Any shift after one week？不好意思，cannot take it.

这样的天气终于来了! 按照预报，12月4号，晴天; 温度，零下无疑。好啊，准备打包！是登山呢，还是徒步？哪里的view最好？overnight停车，是否安全？. . . . . .所有这些，都是博士要考虑的，在此致谢，博士辛苦了。没想到，4号凌晨，随时更新的trip status变成了“cancel”，因为雪崩指数是considerable，即便是treeline也是如此。那好啊，接到电话，我就去上班吧，倒是什么也不耽误。只是连Flora都跟着为我担心，一直提醒我出去的时候小心路况啊、开车注意安全，多好的朋友啊！（谢谢Flora）

天气好了一天，又变了。我们还能抓住机会吗？6号呢？晴！博士选中了Seymour，可是中午后云盖满了大半个天空，那日落就看不到了，既然我们是要去看风景，露营的目的就是要捕捉日出日落呀，缺了这个怎么行？再等等！6号下午接着上班。7号怎么样，有戏吗？好消息！7号一大早，上网一看，trip status“Go”！赶快，取消了下午的班，再清点一下我的list，快10点时，和博士会合，再次整理打包，snow pickets、basic climbing gear、avalanche beacon（这个很重要，万一被雪埋住，同伴可以迅速找到你的位置）、每人两个ice-axe等，全都武装到位，博士竟然还带了重重的三脚架，很serious吧？我还是追求舒服的，记得第一次雪地露营，学到了Jinsi两个睡袋的经验，自那以后，我再也没有睡觉会冷的问题了（在此也再次谢谢Jinsi），这一次，因为Seymour，离家也不远，多带些并不觉得多负担，虽然我的睡袋零下10℃应该没问题，但我还是带了两个，加了一个很轻很薄的零度的夏天用的羽绒睡袋，因为这样不增加什么重量，却肯定更comfortabe，这是毫无疑问的。（事后证明，这完全是个英明的决定！）

去Seymour的路上，天空碧蓝，阳光普照，那树上的雪会不会都化掉了？那岂不可惜？这么担心着，还好，还没上到一半，就看到雪还都在，气温也越来越低了，心下自生欢喜，好，P5到了，咦，怎么关了？P5不是用来overnight停车的吗？怎么拦起来了？我们只好继续开，滑雪者的车位就别占了，我们就停在了快到大停车场的路旁，和其他车斜着平行。此时外面-6℃，博士看了开心，连声说，这就是我们想要的温度，colder is better.

好！换登山鞋，加gaiters，上小冰爪，将外挂的gear等一一定位，看到人来来往往，最后一刻博士决定雪鞋不带（真棒！），接下来呢？博士掏出称来，例行公事：看背包的重量！

博士的：你们都看到照片了，50lb6oz！（我吓了一跳，去Whitney也只是这个重量啊！）

可这位减重成功的先生倒有自己的现身说法：这不就是原来的体重加20磅的背包吗！没问题呀！（真牛！）

PanShiBo

2016.12.07-08 Pump Peak - contd.

The cold air that Arctic Front brings to Lower Mainland never lasts long, so once it arrives we cease any chance to use it to its best. 8)

PHOTO: dry snow is very unusual for low elevations like Mt. Seymour


This is rarely climbed Crown N1 ( we climbed it on 2014-03-24)