2018.10.09 [Training] Stawamus Chief - Alpine Edition

PanShiBo

[Training] Stawamus Chief - Alpine Edition

Itinerary
Gain Stawamus Chief's 1st peak via Mountaineer's route (rebars)
Single long rappel over west face / (Raven's Castle, low-angle slab, bolts, ~50m)
Climb back up using 3:1
Practice: Alpine Rescue Hauling Systems (up to 7:1)
Return to car via tourist trail


Gear: Base Alpine Gear Set

About Carpool : here

Meetup
Time: ~13:00  (TBD)
Place: exact location will be communicated via email

NOTE:
1. If minimum safety levels are not met, the trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.
2. If you have previously "bailed" less than a day before the start of, or been a "no show" for any club’s trip, you need not apply to join this one - you will not get a response.
3. For your safety, the group's size is limited. Register early before the trip is full.

IMPORTANT
ALTHOUGH the organizer of this trip has received training in mountaineering and alpine/crevasse rescue, he is NOT a professional mountaineer, guide or trained first aid attendant. The function of the organizer is only to organize the trip, ensure it gets underway and be familiar or have knowledge of the access to the area, the route or routes. Participants on a trip are responsible for their own safety and are expected to have the necessary skills, experience, fitness, suitable first aid supplies and appropriate equipment in good working order.

How To Register for this trip:
1) Must have hiked with the organizer in the past.
2) Have emergency contacts on file ( http://goo.gl/BWqMl ) AND be confirmed ( check your email ).
3) Reply to this post : drive or carpool.

*All trip coordination is emailed to the address that you have provided to the trip's organizer, you are responsible to check it often.

vera

One person. Will drive. Weather looks great. Thanks for organizing!

归去来兮

Why using 3to1 pull yourself up on top rope? Would be easier to just use Texas prussik ascending rope much easier and efficient? :p

PanShiBo

Why using 3to1 pull yourself up on top rope? Would be easier to just use Texas prussik ascending rope much easier and efficient?

We deploy several different methods for rope ascending. None is 100% universal solution: it all depends on the situation, mainly on the angle of the slope. Texas method is superior for free air (100% vertical) when the feet don't touch the surface, otherwise we use either single leg prusik or 3:1 (much preferred: because legs are free from loops so one can easily switch between climbing, self-belaying and rope-ascending which is very good for varying slope-angle terrain - it can considerably speed-up climbing of the second). Still, we never carry classic Texas prusik (like when glacier travel), instead we use 2 double slings for leg loops. By the way, the Alpine Practice session "Ascending the rope" is on our short list, once we have free time and weather is good..:)
Here is one example of using 3:1 - switching between climbing, self-belaying and ascending the rope:


P.S. We used 3:1 to ascend the ropes, twice, on our last trip to Spindle Peak - worked well.