被困珠峰 世界顶峰上演生死时速(图) 扬子晚报

飞鱼

5月21日早晨，一名尼泊尔女登山者在攀登到距珠峰峰顶还有550米的地方时，遭遇高空病，陷入了半昏迷状态。两名成功登顶的登山人在下山途中，碰巧发现了她。尽管他们素不相识，但这两名登山者仍和其他同事花了12个小时，将女登山者沿着陡峭的雪壁救到了山下。这起“珠峰大营救”事件让许多登山者深受震动。

险情 女登山者突陷半昏迷

这名大难不死的尼泊尔女登山者名叫尤莎，5月21日早晨，尤莎攀登到了距珠穆朗玛峰峰顶还剩550米的地方，由于严重缺氧导致脑水肿，她很快陷入半昏迷状态。

由于尤莎参加的是收费仅为4500英镑的低价登山团，只配备了最基本的登山装备，因此遇险后根本不可能通过先进的通讯工具及时向外界发信号求救。幸运的是，美国资深登山向导戴维·哈恩和夏尔巴人同伴芬约·多吉正好从珠峰顶上下来，他们发现了尤莎。



真正的英雄 哈恩



地点 发生在珠峰“死亡地带”
哈恩事后回忆道：“让我非常担心的是，她（尤莎）的氧气已经消耗殆尽，大脑丧失了意识。更可怕的是，她身处的那面陡峭雪坡正是山上的一个危险地带。”在国际登山界，海拔8000米以上的山地历来被称为“死亡地带”。在这样一个高度，登山者由于缺氧往往自顾不暇，更别说营救他人了。然而，哈恩和多吉经过商量，决定冒死营救尤莎下山。哈恩事后表示：“在营救过程中我不得不摘下自己的氧气面罩，给病人戴上。可是由于筋疲力尽，我自己差点窒息而死。幸运的是，我最终活了下来。”

营 救 12小时成功救下女登山者

为了减轻尤莎的高空病症状，哈恩和多吉先给她注射了一剂类固醇药物；接着，两人沿着珠峰陡峭的南坡，花了足足4个小时，设法将尤莎拖到了7920米处的珠峰四号营。然而，哈恩等人迅速意识到必须将尤莎带到7300米处的三号营，才能最终拯救她的性命。于是哈恩和4名登山队同事又将尤莎裹在一个睡袋中，将她绑到了一个雪橇上，他们又花了至少8个小时，用绳子将绑着尤莎的雪橇一步步抬下了险峻的勒霍茨山壁和黄带山壁，就是在同一个山壁上，他们曾亲眼看到另一个女登山队员失足摔下了1000米深的山壁。21日晚上9点后，他们终于将尤莎救到了三号营中。

人物 向导曾9登珠峰

曾经9次攀登上珠峰的哈恩对记者说：“我当时感到疲倦极了，因为在拯救过程中，我将自己的氧气都留给了这个病人。如果告诉你我当时真实的想法，我当时认为她不可能会幸存下来。”据悉，这已经不是哈恩第一次在珠峰上救人了，早在2001年，他就曾经在珠峰上帮助救援过两名遇险登山者。

声音 珠峰救援引争论

然而，尼泊尔女登山者尤莎在珠峰8300米高处成功获救的事实，却再次引燃了关于珠峰救援的伦理争议。早在2006年5月15日，英国登山者戴维·夏普也是在这个高度遭遇高空病，死在了一个珠峰洞穴里。当时，大约40名登山者都从夏普身边经过，但他们并没想到对他进行救援尝试。自从这一事件之后，那些“见死不救”的登山者都遭到了舆论猛烈的谴责。爱尔兰资深登山家特伦斯·巴侬说：“我已经拥有25年的登山史了，我看到过许多人冒着生命危险去拯救他人，那些说他们当时没有任何办法的人是在撒谎。”

lulululu

http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?news=16014

2:49 pm EST May 23, 2007
(MountEverest.net) "I have been climbing for 25 years, and I've seen people risking their lives to save other's. Those who say there was nothing they could do are lying," wrote Banjo Bannon last week on the anniversary of David Sharp's death. Yesterday, Everest brought another example that rescues on altitude are not only possible, but common. "Within the first twenty minutes of our rest time we started getting radio calls that there was a woman on the triangular face of Everest (27,000 ft) that was having a very difficult time. A call went out to IMG guide Dave Hahn to watch for her on his way down. By the time Dave got to her she was in very bad shape and was nearly unconscious." Next comes a detailed report of climbers, exhausted from their own recent summit, rescuing a climber from another team.

The rescue was done from the triangular face under balcony on Everest South side, at 8100-8400meter, about the same altitude where Sharp was found. This isn't Hahn's first such experience. Poignantly, in 2001 he helped to rescue 2 Himex climbers from close to the summit of Everest: 300 meters higher than the place where David Sharp died.

We kept lowering and lowering...

Yesterday's rescue on Everest south side was hard: "For the extremely steep and rugged descent down from the South Col, Usha was packaged up in a sleeping bag strapped to a sled. Since carrying her down this terrain would be impossible we would have to drag her and lower her with ropes... We worked our way across the steep Lhotse Face and down through a rocky area called the Yellow Band. Once we got through this area it got a little easier because we were straight above camp III so we did more lowering than guiding the sled, but we were also getting very tired. Before we got to camp III the sun had set and it was starting to get cold. We kept lowering and lowering and finally just above camp III a group of doctors from the Extreme Everest Expedition came up and helped us the rest of the way into camp..."

Found almost unconscious, Usha was brought down from 8300 meters to C3 at 7300 meters. That's 1000 meters, or about 10 times the distance (100 meters) separating David Sharp from the place where he was last interviewed by Discovery cameras and the safety of high camp.

"David Sharp HAD to Die," explains Adventurist editor J. Alan Hendricks in his editorial posted a few weeks back. "To save lives." Banjo, Alan and yesterday's rescue are just the latest in the large number of climbers, writers and examples stressing that it's not feasibility, but human ethics that need to be scrutinized in the wake of David Sharp.