Gary Delang lacing up on the way to Garibaldi's East Face
Panorama of Cheekye Ridge and Mount Garibaldi from Paul Ridge, This photo shows Garibaldi showing the expanse of Garibaldi Park and Garibaldi Neve to the right/east of Mount Garibaldi.
Access / Route:
1. East Face (1907) A. Dalton; W. Dalton; A. King; T. Pattison. Steep snow (45 degrees). (Normal route) Approach the E snow face on skis, and then kick steps up the steep snow slopes to a saddle just north of the final peak. Just before the saddle is a bergshrund which is usually filled with snow Feb-June. Above the bergshrund, climb steep snow to reach saddle. From there it is an easy walk to the summit. Ice axe and rope advised. The peak is often climbed as part of a ski traverse of the Neve. If bergshrund causes problems, it can be bypassed on either side, although this is steeper and more exposed.
2. NE face via Warren Glacier Need Ice axe, rotten rock. (obscure) From the head of the Warren Glacier, Climb glacier to bergschrund just below summit. Bergschrund must usually be outflanked by going onto rotten rock of the NE or NW ridges. More bad rock on the final ridge makes this a poor summer route, but better in early season when snow covered. Ice axe required.