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发表于 2008-6-12 21:56:30
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Info from Bivouac:
Mount Cook Height: 2676 m (8780 ft)
A rounded, rubbly peak in northern Garibaldi Provincial Park, located on the northeast side of Wedgemount Lake, and on the northwest side of the Armchair Glacier. (2 km NE of Wedgemount Lake). (13 km NE of Whistler). (5 km N of Wedge Mountain).
The mountain is composed of generally poor rock of varying degrees of looseness. It's easiest peak to climb around Wedgemount Lake although it sees relatively little traffic. Access is from the Wedgemount Lake hut. From the hut, scramble up to the west ridge and follow it to the summit.
West Route
2nd. Scramble north from the Wedgemount Lake Hut to reach an alpine bench below Mt. Cook. Follow the bench left (west) for 1km or a bit more as it gently climbs up the side of Mt. Cook. The stability of the rubbley slope above the bench improves as one continues to the west, with the most asthetic line at the far end. The broad ridgetop is then followed back to the east with some class 2 scrambling near the summit.
a related TR from Bivouac:
Wedgemount Lake and Mount Cook in July
by Benoit Landry
My trip to Wedgemount Lake is what made me discover the majesty of the Coast Mountains. After moving to Vancouver I had spent most of my time biking on the North Shore, until I looked down on Whistler village from 2 kilometers above.
It came to be that on the week-end of july 23rd, I decided to undertake the biggest climb of my short hiking history: from the base of the valley in Whistler, I would hike over 2000 meters up to attempt to stand atop mount Weart. During my move to Vancouver from Ottawa, I had set some personal height gain records in the rockies, but I was obviously not prepared for the punishing ascent that the wedgemount group would deliver. Wanting to up the ante, I set out from Vancouver on the 23rd around 10 and was at the parking lot around 1. I drove as far as possible with my 2wd compact, only to find that the road got very rough higher up. I stopped at 660 meters, parked, strapped my pack and headed up.
Progress was quick through the trees, for the first hour. As I slowed down, time seemed to slow simultaneously. The forested section of the trail seemed unending: switchback after switchback, poor GPS coverage and a pack that seemed to be getting heavier by the minute.
Finally, after 2.5 hours I caught a glimpse of the slopes of Cook and Rethel. Somehow the sight made me feel as if I hadn't climbed at all: both peaks were still so high above me and I had the impression of being on a treadmill. I also read an elevation of 1450 meters. Ignoring this discouraging fact, I continued to treeline, where the spectacular vista unfolding behind reminded me of why I was here. I eagerly climbed on towards the headwall below the lake and painfully made my way to its crest.
I was finally there! Wedgemount Lake. Not quite the objective, but a safe haven for the night to come. After observing the lake from the top of the headwall I decided to pitch my tent on a small sandy point on the North side of the lake. The evening was completely clear and the sunset over Wedgemount Lake was beautiful.
It was 8 o'clock sunday morning by the time I was up and ready to go. The sky was clear except for a few clouds blowing off the upper part of Wedge mountain, and the temperature was a cool 4 degrees. Since I had missed my 6:00 start time, I decided to take it easy and head up Cook instead. I also decided that an easy ascent was the smart thing to do given my scrambling experience, or the lack thereof.
I headed WNW from camp towards grassy slopes, the route that I thought was right. As it turns out, I headed way too far west, missed the gentle slopes I should've ascended (due North of camp), and climbed brutal loose, steep talus. After a lengthy traverse and little elevation gain I wondered if it was worth it to continue, as the terrain was far more difficult than the rockies scree I had hiked on in the spring. I ended up continuing, arriving at the end of the large talus boulders and onto a flat area ("plateau") covered in smaller rocks. From here, I turned East and quickly climbed up 300 meters of solid scree, with the occasional snow patch. Once on the ridge , I hiked to the false summit. At this point I had reached my turn-around time, but since the sky was clear and the summit was very close (and less than 50 meters higher) I went on towards the true summit.
Just before the summit, the gentle ridge top ended, and I had to descent a few meters south and traverse a section of broken rock , before regaining the ridge crest. The summit was only a short plod away.
Being almost out of time, I snapped a few shots, took in the scenery and headed down. I was tempted to descent directly towards the lake, but not wanting to run into any cliffs I followed my route up. All in all the excursion had taken me 6 hours, a lot more than the 1.5 hour ascent quoted in my guide!
Once back at camp, I rounded up my gear and headed out. After hiking some 65 meters back up the headwall retaining Wedgemount lake, I realized the descent would be no walk in the park. I started to descend around 4, and although I made it back to the car at 6, it seemed like the desent would take forever. The 7-km trail was competed fairly quickly, but with the same feeling of a never-ending treadmill as on the way up.
When I dropped my pack by the car, it felt like I had suddenly grown wings. I had never done such a massive hike, and doing so with a 40-lb backpack (I always pack too many clothes), I was quite proud of myself. My knees felt like I had a bad case of arthritis and and 40 extra years of age. That evening I vowed never to return to Wedgemount Lake... But I know I will!
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