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发表于 2016-11-28 07:34:34
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Alpine Tip 42: How to (and how not to) climb at High Altitudes.
1. Before an important high-altitude trip, make some acclimatization hikes in California's High Sierra or Colorado, for example hike the Mt. Whitney trail a few times. If you can't make it to Mt. Whitney, then you probably should seriously reconsider your trip altogether.
2. The sure way to fail any alpine summit is to walk fast. If it is a guided trip, be aware that some dishonest (usually underpaid) commercial "guides" use this fact to work less: to make the clients give up before they even reach the base camp - by setting up or encouraging rather quick pace. Neat trick - the clients never realize they were intentionally burnt for they usually blame their own "bad" fitness.
3. Learn and practice the technique of alpine walk - it is there for a good reason.
4. Avoid taking high altitude medication such as Diamox. If you do, be prepared for side effects: ".. fatigue, drowsiness, depression, decreased libido, bitter or metallic taste, nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps, diarrhea, black feces, polyuria, kidney stones, metabolic acidosis and electrolyte changes (hypokalemia, hyponatremia)...".
5. At the last base camp just before the summit bid, walk 1/3 up of the route and come back down. Have a good sleep.
6. Drink a lot of liquid.
7. On the summit day, avoid super "early start" - if you begin at or before the midnight you most likely will be at the summit later than earlier or won't make it at all. This is obvious - who will be in top shape without a sleep? Such early starts are typical with commercial guides - this is the trend all over the climbing industry. If you think the summit is too far and you can't make it in a day time, you should probably move the base camp a bit closer (or go home).
8. Bad morale kills motivation which you surely will need. If it is not a guided trip, climb only with good proven climbing partners: with those who will never leave you behind. This has to be reciprocal - you never leave your climbing partner behind - even when the summit is only 50 m away. |
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