2015 02.15-02.19 * Rim To Rim and back

PanShiBo

We arrived in Grand Canyon NP on Feb-14th. Coincidentally, on that day the entrance to the park was free of charge.  8)

PanShiBo

Unlike most of such trips, this one has never been planned. When the idea came up it took only one day to pack, and we left right next morning. We made no reservations, nor had we have required back-country permit. We secretly hoped the luck will be on our side. And it was. It turned out to be the smoothest trip ever, including the weather. 8)

PHOTO: A new day has just began in Grand Canyon, Arizona. Taken from Cottonwood c/g.

WanchaiBoz

:lm:  :hx:

vera

这次意外的大峡谷之行让我觉得即便曾经再好的经历也需要复习。

这是我第二次走South Kaibab Trail，我还记得当时初见它时都不能呼吸的震撼，但是走在trail上时，我时不时地问自己我真的走过它吗？可是为什么一点也不记得有这样的风景和这样的山路呢？当时怎么一点也没看到下面有那么风水的营地呢？曾经的记忆只剩下模糊的激动的影子，好在有这次机会让它清晰起来，想到这些，内心真是充满感恩。每个人旅行的方式不同，我喜欢这样在时间允许的范围内最大限度地慢慢欣赏，感谢博士的周到安排，我们用了比上次超过一倍的时间走同样的trail，所以得到极大的满足感，无数次停留，只为了充分领略大峡谷的魅力。

人的记忆可靠吗？Hiking让我明白了记忆的三维在很多时候和我们心里希望的距离有多么遥远。

边走边唱

很精彩的内容， :favor:

vera

当我们在Backcountry Office买入谷露营许可证的时候，Ranger说我们可以带着信用卡或现金使用，我听后心中既窃喜又狂喜，心想真是天无绝人之路，这下可不用担心食物够不够了，坚强的后盾在此，还烦什么？However, the first night at Bright Angel CG I didn't have a chance to try it as I couldn't find its location.

Finally it was the time. After 3 nights camping, I finished all my food on purpose and was ready for dining at Phantom Ranch Canteen near Bright Angel CG. I used a very good excuse to get approval from Dr: Chinese New Year's Eve. It was very special, wasn't it?

Guided by a very nice old man we found the Canteen. On the way he said we might need to make reservation one day earlier as all food has to be carried by mules and they have limited supply. (Oh no, I need today!) What to do if no space left? Left backpacks outside, I went in and my anxiety went up. What to order, how to order, I had no clue. The young guy said he had to ask the cook first to see if there was enough food for us. (Luck was on our side again!) Then he asked "What do you want? Steak or stew?" I was surprised again by his reply "You cannot choose both as they are served at different time. One is at 5:30pm, one is at 6:30pm." I bet everyone will feel confused if this is your first time like this. Then he wrote down my name and we had to pay first. That was 3 hours before supper and I still had no idea about what was going to happen.

PanShiBo

The ranch remains a popular destination; its accommodations are often sold out on the first day they become available, which is 13 months beforehand.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phantom_Ranch

PanShiBo

Back-country permit is a serious piece that must be obtained and be in good standing. Ours was inspected at Bright Angel c/g by a ranger, in fact a police officer, who was carrying two guns : one Taser and one with "regular"  bullets.

海泉湾

vera
这次意外的大峡谷之行让我觉得即便曾经再好的经历也需要复习。

这是我第二次走South Kaibab Trail，我还记得当时初见它时都不能呼吸的震撼，但是走在trail上时，我时不时地问自己我真的走过它吗？可是为什么一点也不记得有这样的风景和这样的山路呢？当时怎么一点也没看到下面有那么风水的营地呢？曾经的记忆只剩下模糊的激动的影子，好在有这次机会让它清晰起来，想到这些，内心真是充满感恩。每个人旅行的方式不同，我喜欢这样在时间允许的范围内最大限度地慢慢欣赏，感谢博士的周到安排，我们用了比上次超过一倍的时间走同样的trail，所以得到极大的满足感，无数次停留，只为了充分领略大峡谷的魅力。

人的记忆可靠吗？Hiking让我明白了记忆的三维在很多时候和我们心里希望的距离有多么遥远。

Hiking、 悟道

海泉湾

PanShiBo
Two of us crossed the land twice: from South (photo left) to North  (photo right), dropping from the South Rim to the river level (1.5 km vertical that is), climbing to the North Rim and then coming back again. We emerged from below the rim after five days on Feb-19 2015, exactly Chinese New Year.  8)

精彩的旅程！

PanShiBo

Topo of Day 1 - Bright Angel Trail, camped at Bright Angel c/g.

The trail originates at the Grand Canyon Village on the south rim of Grand Canyon, descending 4380 feet to the Colorado River. It has an average grade of 10% along its entire length. At trail's end, the River Trail continues another 1.9 miles to the Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch. These two trails combined are the most common method used to access Phantom Ranch by hikers and mules.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bright_Angel_Trail#Description

PanShiBo

The Bright Angel Trail was originally built by the Native American tribe for access to the perennial water source of present day Garden Creek. The Havasupai settled seasonally in this area, now known as Indian Garden. In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt ordered them to leave the area, to make way for a park. However, it was not until 1928 that the last Havasupai left, forced out by the National Park Service.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bright_Angel_Trail#Havasupai

PHOTO: Indian Garden c/g on Bright Angel Trail

PanShiBo

Topo of Day 2 - North Kaibab Trail, Bright Angel c/g - Cottonwood c/g

Access to this part of the park by car is seasonal, open from mid-May to mid-October or depending on snowcover from the previous winter.

It is possible to reach the North Kaibab Trailhead by crossing the canyon on foot from the South Rim or by snowshoe or cross-country ski beginning at Jacob Lake, Arizona.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Kaibab_Trail

五月

太精彩了！:sofa:  :pics:

vera

We went back to Canteen a few minutes earlier before 6:30pm as requested, waiting outside as others. We heard bell ringing as you were at school. Then the guy (that day was his 26th birthday) came out, introduced himself and gave us instructions how to be served. He was cashier, waiter, and busboy at the same time. Anyway, he was the only one. We lined up and checked in. "What's your name?" "Oh, the last table." I still didn't know how we could be served until I saw big pot of beef stew was delivered to the table. That was a long table which reminded me about Jesus' "The Last Supper" and about 10-12 ppl sat together at each table. We didn't know each other except own group, but ppl were chatting and sharing different stories. Everybody took how much he needed from several choices (bread, beef stew, salad and soup), also wine was available, too. We passed the dishes one by one and the guy would refill them if not enough. The ending was a piece of very sweet chocolate cake.

I've never expected such dinner could happen only 5 mins walking distance from our camp site. It was so luxurious for backpacking and it was so rare. I love Grand Canyon more and more. It is so rich on every aspect.

I felt this style dinner very interesting and it seems far beyond our current life. Nobody was texting message, or talking on the cellphone, or busy with other modern electronic devices. It was so nice to have such feelings back. It aroused lots of my memories about my childhood and I believe it will stay in my heart, too.

PanShiBo

We used Cottonwood c/g as base to reach North Rim and come back the same day.

PHOTO: North Rim from North Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon, Arizona.

PanShiBo

TOPO of Day 3: Cottonwood c/g to North Rim and back.

The North Kaibab Trail begins at the head of Roaring Springs canyon and ends at the Colorado River.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Kaibab_Trail

PanShiBo

Canyon within a canyon, one of the most dramatic parts of the rim-to-rim corridor.

PHOTO: Roaring Springs canyon, Grand Canyon NP, Arizona.

PanShiBo

We brought microspikes on this trip, but seeing how dry the trails were, left them back at Cottonwood c/g. The photo below shows how much snow we had entire trip. Such was "winter" 2014/2015 ( and that's what actually made this trip happen ). 8)

PHOTO: Upper North Kaibab trail just below North Rim. Taken Feb-17, 2015.

PanShiBo

Compared to our "regular" alpine setups (45-50lb / backpack), this time backpacks were a lot lighter, even with 5-days food it was only 35lb each max, so we could even throw in 3 cameras and ceramic coffee cups. 8)

PHOTO: Coffee break at the upper North Kaibab Trail