Some photos

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-21 06:50:25

2019.01.20 Mt . Seymour ("Peak 3") - Alpine Edition (cont'd)

TRIP: 4.4 km 840m up, 4.6 km back.

PHOTO: North face of the Seymour 2nd Peak. Up to 60° snow.

vera · 发表于 2019-1-21 07:08:13

本帖最后由 vera 于 2019-1-22 08:24 编辑

2019.01.20 Mt . Seymour ("Peak 3") - Alpine Edition (cont'd)
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vera · 发表于 2019-1-21 09:07:41

本帖最后由 vera 于 2019-1-21 09:09 编辑

2019.01.20 Mt . Seymour ("Peak 3") - Alpine Edition (cont'd)

North face of Seymour 2nd Peak. 60° snow, fixed rope, 40lb backpack.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-21 13:44:03

2019.01.20 Mt . Seymour ("Peak 3") - Alpine Edition (cont'd)

At the summit of 3rd Peak ("real" Mt. Seymour), it's been a long time since last visit here. Garibaldi (climbed in 2015) on right, Mamquam (climbed in 2015 too) on most right.

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Passing by the 2nd peak. Traditional California Climbers' Salute. Crown Group visible on left - Crown, The Camel, Spindle and Crown N1 - all climbed).

vera · 发表于 2019-1-21 14:03:27

本帖最后由 vera 于 2019-1-22 08:25 编辑

2019.01.20 Mt . Seymour ("Peak 3") - Alpine Edition (cont'd)

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PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-21 18:41:56

2019.01.20 Mt . Seymour ("Peak 3") - Alpine Edition (cont'd)

On the Seymour 2nd Peak. 3rd peak right behind..

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At the end of such fantasic day, finding the car having been broken-in (hard to beleive, now it happens at Seymour public parking lot, in day-light, on Sunday!).

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BUT they spared the book!
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PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-23 20:48:30

2019.1.23 Bluebird day at Brockton Point (Mt. Seymour)

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California Climbers' Salute at Brockton
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PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-27 15:17:19

2019.01.26 Winter ascent of Mt. Hood, OR - Old Chute route

"..In addition to being Oregon's highest mountain, it is one of the loftiest mountains in the nation based on its prominence..."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Hood
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California Climbers' Salute at the summit of Mt. Hood (3,429 m), Oregon

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-27 16:09:41

2019.01.26 Winter ascent of Mt. Hood - cont'd

Only 40 meters below the summit, the snow is so hard that self-belay is entirely out of question and self-arrest is impossible. It is alpine ice. Only one option - don't stop, keep climbing. Switching to ice screws because snow-pickets are useless here. Below is the chute and above is the summit ridge, narrow and exposed. In such spot, the last thing you want to hear from your climbing partner is "something is wrong with my eyes". And that's exactly what Vera said to me. It was 2 hours before sunset. The mind quickly traces the return path - the chute, the traverse, the hogsback. We just witnessed someone with another party slipped and fell from the traverse. We carried a good steel spade shovel and an emergency tarp, so would we be in trouble could dig-in for the night, although that didn't look like a fantastic fun. We chose to reach the summit and figure out the plan.

PHOTO: The traverse is "only" 35°, measured with instrument. In our two consecutive climbs, two weeks apart, we witnessed two unprotected falls from here, climbers dropping all the way to the "base" next to fumarole. Video of one of the falls is available on YouTube.

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PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-27 19:21:58

2019.01.26 Winter ascent of Mt. Hood - cont'd

So we climbed the last section of the summit ridge, on running belay, making no cat-walk mistakes, a bit exposed on both sides, and once on flat grounds, Vera took off her goggles, wiped them out and put them back again - and miracle - she can see well again! Like in those bad dreams, when we know we are dreaming and want to wake up so the trouble will be gone and the life is back beautiful and sweet - it happened! Huge relief, besides, after seven hours we WERE now on the summit! Typical for our climbing style of "no climbing in the dark", there were nobody except two of us - everybody else already left the summit (or never made it).

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-27 20:39:40

2019.01.26 Winter ascent of Mt. Hood - cont'd

That's what they call "alpenglow".
PHOTO: Mt. Hood (OR), south side, with Hogsback in the center.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-28 06:21:10

2019.01.26 Winter ascent of Mt. Hood - cont'd

Perfect summut snow temperature -4.5°C.

In the Old Chute.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-28 08:19:52

2019.01.26 Winter ascent of Mt. Hood - cont'd

Perfect climbing day on Mt. Hood, Oregon!

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Hogsback is where climbers start giving up, for various reasons.

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The "Traverse" is where more climbers quit, or slip and fall unprotected, and we have seen it happening.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-28 13:52:38

2019.01.26 Winter ascent of Mt. Hood - cont'd
Let's DO It!

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Only 1.6km up

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Little napping break at Devil's Kitchen

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-29 02:59:12

2019.01.26 Winter ascent of Mt. Hood - cont'd
Driving time certainly was not wasted. Knitting 100% wool "lobster" climbing mitts.

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Mt. Jefferson as seen from south slopes of Mt. Hood

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Protecting "Traverse"

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-29 16:55:40

2019.01.29 Alpine Practice @ Seymour's Pump Peak (climbing 45° snow on running belay)

California Climbers' Salute at the Pump Peak

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-29 17:08:45

2019.01.29 Alpine Practice @ Seymour's Pump Peak (cont'd)

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Mt. Rainier is the tallest peak in Washington at 4,392 m

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A nice day.

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Mt. Garibaldi

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Mamquam

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-1-30 19:55:30

2019.01.26 Winter ascent of Mt. Hood - cont'd

Descending to Devil's Kitchen.

..with frostibitten finger.

vera · 发表于 2019-2-6 06:31:29

本帖最后由 vera 于 2019-2-6 06:44 编辑

2019.2 4-5 Alpine Practice - snowcamping below -20°C
自从更新了装备，博士总是念叨着arctic cold，因为只有冷空气来了，我们这里才有可能到达零下二三十度，才能测试这些gear是否可靠。圣诞过了，不是白色的；新年过了，零下都不曾有。“看来今年没机会了”，正有些失落呢，好消息就到了：降温，急剧降温！博士开心极了，正好我也没有定好的班次，好，说走就走！

哪里冷？Seymour肯定不够，-10°C不是我们要的。我们的睡袋标的是-30°C，over boots也得-20°C吧？帐篷已经接受过暴风雪的考验，但是低温下是否帐顶结霜还不知道。另外，手套等都要一一检测。3号在班上就收到博士的信息：Rohr area，就算是TH已是低于-15°C，那到山顶上至少零下二十多度啊，summit camping怎样？好！（我就是一个很容易也很喜欢说“好”的人）

11点下班，12点睡觉，4点起床，准备，6：30接上博士，小小的road trip开始！因为7点后会堵车，不想凑那热闹，所以才这么早出发，等过了西温就可以开开停停了。我都想好了，可以在Squamish的麦当劳吃早饭。此刻，是-6°C，真的一点也不暖和。

按部就班，顺利到了麦当劳。风大，更觉冷意。安全第一的博士有了新的concern：我们的目的是测试装备，万一半夜在山顶，发现装备有问题，怎么办？最好选择进退自如的地方，比如说近高速，近车。喝着咖啡，博士的主意就有了，这不，这些条件都满足的，Joffre的1st Lake，非它莫属！就是它了！（我心中窃喜，哈哈哈，天上掉馅饼啊，下车后几分钟就可走到，还能在冰冻的湖上露营，这么轻松，吉人自有天相也！）

路况一路甚好，只是温度计的读数一直在下降。到了Joffre Lakes的停车场，哎哟，-17°C！博士大喜：“That's what we exactly want!" "I'm looking forward to this!" 我呢，算是有自知之明，hand warmer, toe warmer一个也不少，乖乖地用上。加厚的羽绒衣也套上了，climbing boots + overboots + snowshoes, ready to go! 晴朗的天，走起来很爽，走过停车场，在林子里没几分钟，就到了湖边。大踏步踩上去，啊哈，幸亏有雪鞋，否则就深到大腿了，赶快夸了博士英明。多好的营地啊，平整，可以省多少力气啊，我喜欢！至于是否会掉进去，念头一闪而过，再也不见。博士有些担心，但是湖边的林子他也觉得不安全：因为风大时，树也会倒啊。怎么办？平衡一下，离岸不远，但不在树的触及范围内，这就是我们的营地！

好！我还是一如既往地好，背包也不用放，就开始圈起地来：长方形，踩踩踩，转90°，踩踩踩，再转90°。这么大够吗？想想还是贪心些，再往外一圈，继续踩踩踩，还要故意往下使劲，踩实，一圈圈缩小。然后再来第二遍第三遍。这是迄今建过的最容易的营地，不用铲子就又大又平，我怎么这么好的运气呀！（大风里去climbing，不是理想的。博士一直说，We can afford to wait for the best climbing condition. We are flexible.为共同的登山哲学，赞！

PHOTO: Good to see this: -17°C, at the parking!

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Our goal is to test these, in cold -20°C: sleeping bags, NeoAir mattresses, footwear,lower and upper body insulation, Reactor stove and all electronics (cameras,inReach, GPS, Oximeter, MP3 player, FRS radios, thermometer). Just recently finished hand-made 100%-wool lobster climbing mitts will get tested too!

PanShiBo · 发表于 2019-2-6 06:52:32

2019.2 4-5 Alpine Practice - snowcamping below -20°C, cont'd

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