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Mount Hood,OR - Pearly Gates

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发表于 2017-5-26 20:23:53 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
2017.05.26 two of us climbed Mount Hood, the highest mountain in Oregon.

This makes Oregon the seventh U.S. state which highest peak we climbed together.

Washington        Mount Rainier        4,392
California        Mount Whitney        4,419
Colorado        Mount Elbert        4,399
Utah        Kings Peak        4,123
Arizona        Humphreys Peak        3,851
Texas        Guadalupe Peak        2,667
Oregon        Mount Hood        3,426

 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-27 05:45:41 | 显示全部楼层
Mount Hood's disaster exactly 15 years ago (May 30, 2002) (Situation Critical -Nightmare on Mt. Hood) made us pack all our technical gear for the glacier and steep snow (that's 55lb total weight).



99.99%  climbers  start climbing  M. Hood at midnight. We belong to the rest of 0.01%, after a good sleep (and some unexpected coordination), we started at 8:30 a.m.
发表于 2017-5-27 06:05:26 | 显示全部楼层

[分享] Mount Hood

"Ridges have shifted, snow features have melted out, and climbers can now expect to find 45 degree to 55 degree ice slopes in highly exposed terrain where one misstep could lead to disaster" __ 这就是我们要去的“Pearly Gates”路线!(有登山者这样分析)

Mount Hood,Oregon的最高峰,summitpost上说它有仅次于日本富士山的流行度,我们已经关注了它一年多,从去年3月到现在,从来没有停止过观察它的天气和阅读登山者的报告,终于在5月25号的早晨,博士的邮件到了:“Trip status:Go”,紧张的准备之后,12:30,接上博士,开往边境。在经历了Chief的Grand Wall Rappel之后,我对博士说“I got emotional trauma”, 不知道Hood之行,是否可以成为我的一剂良药,安慰一下我这“受伤的心灵”?

 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-27 06:24:22 | 显示全部楼层
As part of the crevasse rescue response equipment, we carried two (30m) static ropes, which we made by cutting the 90m rope used on the  Grand Wall 2 days before. Cutting the "Grand Wall" rope also served as a symbolic relieve of the emotional shock two of us received there.

 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-27 08:31:30 | 显示全部楼层
Among alpine peaks in the US and Canada, Mount Hood is one of the most friendly towards climbers: the overnight parking is officially allowed (unlike Yosemite where rangers chase everybody out), there is no permit system (like in Mt.Whitney), no fees to be paid (as in Shasta), and the driving to the TH is on the main road (unlike Mt. Adams or Mt. Baker which is still under snow). They even snowcat plow the separate path for the climbers as high as the Palmer glacier. No wonder it is the most popular peak around.  We graded our trip as 10 out of 10 :)

发表于 2017-5-27 09:15:29 | 显示全部楼层

[分享] Hood (1)

到了边境,前面只有一辆车,还被转去检查了,可轮到我们时,这位官员都没有问通常的“住哪里,是做什么工作”这样的问题,只是问去哪里,一听是Hood,就说,哦,那你们要准备很多serious的gear啊,我说当然啦,比如ice-axe、rope、crampons什么的,他听了马上就笑笑放行了,还没忘了祝我们一切顺利。(没想到这么简单)

可是西雅图好像永远是忙碌的,车多极了,而且今天的HOV我们这个方向的也关了,就这样一路辗转,八点多才到离Hood还有一个多小时的麦当劳:我们需要查看天气!这一看不要紧,问题来了:博士对Hood的freezing level不满意!这可怎么办?我的心马上就一沉(not easy to lift up in a short time),  因为这意味着可能取消此行。但是我也不能和他argue,因为凡是涉及到安全问题,那就没什么好讨价还价的,这个道理我明白得很。

“也许我们可以去Crater Lake,去那里的Watchman”,博士忙得很,Hood不行,马上开始准备其他方案。我呢,还没回过神来呢,这Hood就这样disappear了?太不甘心了,而历次的经历又总是证明博士的每次决定都是对的。那,我该怎么办呢?

 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-27 14:09:26 | 显示全部楼层
Pearly Gates of Mount Hood.

The pearly gates is an informal name for the gateway to Heaven according to some Christian denominations. It is inspired by the description of the New Jerusalem in Revelation 21:21: "The twelve gates were twelve pearls, each gate being made from a single pearl."


PHOTO: Our route, "Pearly Gates"
 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-27 19:01:21 | 显示全部楼层
Steam coming out of fumarole near Crater Rock.

发表于 2017-5-27 20:26:49 | 显示全部楼层
Cool!

Thanks Dr.Pan & Vera for sharing, I always enjoy reading your TRs! :favor:  :b.cool:  :za:
 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-27 20:29:44 | 显示全部楼层
lulululu
Cool!

Thanks Dr.Pan & Vera for sharing, I always enjoy reading your TRs! :favor:  :b.cool:  :za:


! 8)
 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-27 20:38:15 | 显示全部楼层
Although well within our abilities, and we won't call it "a challenge", Pearly Gates was technically harder than we have thought, certainly harder than Shasta, Adams or even Baker (standard routes). We didn't feel we need to use our climbing rope for protection, but we pulled on two ice axes, one straight and another one technical.

PHOTO: One of the exit chutes of Pearly Gates. Mt. Hood ski area parking lot is visible far away down below, if you know where to look.


Upon return we learned that this exact route claimed life of a 32 y.o. climber, just a few weeks prior to our trip.

A Seattle man died after plummeting 600 feet (183 meters) during a climb near the summit of Oregon's snow-capped Mount Hood...He was in the Hogsback area near the summit and near an ice-covered section called the Pearly Gates when he lost his footing...

www.usnews.com

PHOTO: Pearly Gates, Mt. Hood, OR
 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-28 05:14:30 | 显示全部楼层
Exit chute of the Pearly Gates, Mt. Hood, OR
 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-28 05:43:42 | 显示全部楼层
On Palmer glacier we passed descending party wearing plastic Koflach boots, which almost always indicates guided trip. Checking on-line ($725USD/pp):

 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-28 13:26:58 | 显示全部楼层
Our track - Pearly Gates route
 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-30 06:08:32 | 显示全部楼层
On the top of Mount Hood, Oregon.

Touching the summit is one addictive part of mountaineering, and as with any type of addiction, not getting what you want is painful. Why it is so I don't know (is it because of our deep desire to be free, or just a protest to the gravity?), but the more you summit the more you want to summit. 8)







 楼主| 发表于 2017-5-31 10:37:04 | 显示全部楼层
There is so called "Alpine Start" concept which seems to be being abused beyond rationality. People start climbing Hood at midnight in the pitch-black darkness. Some of them enter technical terrain without seeing what's going on. I used to be like this before, and I never questioned why it is so. This has changed on the Mt. Baker North Ridge trip when a seasoned climber, after I declared "alpine start", said to me "why bother, lets have a good night sleep and start at sunrise, we will be at the base at the same time as those who start at night". He was right and I was wrong. Since then I never start climbing in the dark.

I always encourage people to convince me back that it is safer to start at midnight rather than have a good rest and travel in good visibility. So far I have not gotten a coherent and solid explanation of such a concept, so I will keep climbing on, in day light that is. 8)

However, I will certainly deploy Alpine Start when it is really required - like guiding beginners (just to make the day-time longer so slower climbers can make it). Or in emergency when temps suddenly rise and I am on the mountain and have no choice but move at night to avoid sun-heat turns snow into slush. However, the question of course is what are you doing there on the warm snow in the first place?

PHOTO: This is the final slope just below Pearly Gates - it is 45° mesaured with an instrument, not guessed. It is steep enough to kill (like it did kill someone just few weeks prior). Will you climb it in the dark?
发表于 2017-5-31 17:02:25 | 显示全部楼层
太厉害啦!谢谢分享!!
发表于 2017-6-1 14:34:18 | 显示全部楼层

[分享] Hood (2)

2017.5.26 Mount Hood

离开了麦当劳,GPS的目的地就调成了Crater Lake,开出一点后,我哪里甘心就此别过?就对博士说,今晚去Timberline Lodge吧,那就是Hood的TH,一个多小时就到了,即便爬不了山,早晨看Hood的日出也好啊,至少风景好嘛,反正今晚也到不了Crater Lake。“山就在面前,不能爬,岂不痛苦?” “不会啊,就当多欣赏了一处风景啊。” 我暗地里希冀博士会同意,我要为Hood做最大的努力,能近一点,希望就多一点。一旦离开,那就一点戏也没了。Never give up. Do your best. 这是我学到的。

结果你猜?Yes!在暮色苍茫里,还可以看到Hood的样子,我们就奔着它,一点一点靠近。通往Th的路早就plow完毕了吧,所以预想中的gate已没了夜间关闭的限制。我们在风声中来到了停车场,先巡视一圈,我真大开眼界,为了不破坏停车场不能露营的规定,登山者们极尽其能,有的在车顶上架起了帐篷,有的是那种皮卡车,他们就把帐篷搭在货舱里(人类真的超级creative). . . . . . 反正不在地上就可以了,回来后才知道其中一辆车就来自Surrey,在他们的TR里,说这样难以入睡,风刮得帐篷很大声,于是急切地等着凌晨一点的闹钟响起来。也有的已经在收拾背包、整装出发。(在这样的风里,即便急切的我也不会选择踏上trail的)那我们呢?本来博士打算0400出发,现在既然不爬了,那就随便了,尽管睡吧,我也不敢再问,千祷告万祷告地盼着能有一丝丝转机。

还在夜色里,醒了,透过窗子,点点头灯的亮光在山坡上一动一动,战线拉得很长,有的似乎已到了summit前的最后一段。我盯着,心中的滋味难以名状。嗯,等等,博士说,我们去吧。啊?可是我什么也没有准备,背包也没有收拾,奇怪,怎么没有预想中的惊喜大叫?原来我一下子又懵了,半天缓不过劲来。(瞧我这没出息的样子)

好,时间还是要抓紧的,愣着归楞着,开始剪绳子!我们带了90m的那根7mm的static绳子,分成3个30m,用于crevasse rescue正合适(因为没有弹性)。偌大的停车场,跑开30m,绰绰有余!很快就分好了三份,各人带着30m,再加一根dynamic的30m用于冰川结绳,done!2L的水袋,再把其他gear理一遍,最后,我的28lb,博士的35lb,可是,风又来了,“look at the wind, no no no, in such condition, not a good idea", 博士指着旁边随风摇摆的树,摇着头,“let's leave”, 瞧,我们真的离开了!

顺着盘山公路下山,心情怎么也难以雀跃(谁能呢?),看着窗外,“咦,你看,这里的树怎么一点也不动呢?” 我只能把这些客观的若有若无地说给博士听,“也许只是夜里有风,白天就停了?就像我们Chief rappel的前一天晚上,温哥华遭遇了非常强的风一样,可第二天,没了呀。” 下到Rest Area,真的没什么风了,博士真的厉害,在我觉得没有希望时,打道回府!(真佩服他做这样的决定,崇拜!)我们竟又回到了Hood的停车场!去!!(哈哈哈)

怎么去?马上抬腿出发?因为我的一个建议,结果我们的start时间推迟了近两个小时!(罪过,罪过!)

发表于 2017-6-1 15:22:43 | 显示全部楼层

[分享] Hood (3)

2017.5.26 Mount Hood

不过嘛,塞翁失马焉知非福?外国人也说啊,the end is well, all is well.

记得在一份TR里,有个人说,他是0550开始的,约两小时后到了palmer's  lift, 发现 差不多lift 已经开始工作了,然后他就懊恼自己满可以坐缆车到这里后再开始爬山的,这样还可以多睡两个小时。我们回来后,已经六点半多了,我去问了一下,Lift 0800开始,联想到这份TR,自作聪明的我就提议:那我们何不趁机坐一下呢?既省力又节约了时间?而且我们有足够的时间做更充分的准备。(太阳升起来了,我觉得我们比计划的出发时间已经晚了太多了)

好啊,可以。听到这个指令,我就开心地去“Climber's cave" 填写进山许可证 (和Vis Ctr同一座building里,24/7开放),发现26号的单子有一沓子,再看看都是些谁,有60多的,也有12岁的(四点多出发的,后来我们在Devil's Kitchen超过了他们)。透过锁着的Vis Ctr的门,看到Lift ticket 0730开始卖,我们就开始东逛西逛,很悠闲,还踩点了一下去Lift的路线。提前五分钟,我就站在那里排队,US$68/each, 好嘞,两张,搞定!回车里拿包,八点前到了轰隆轰隆的Lift那里,“ Ticket?” “Here!” 我转过身去, show一下扣在包上的票。

-- You are climbers?
-- Yes!
-- No, you cannot take this lift.
-- Why? (我急了!)
-- You cannot take the lift without ski boards. This is for the skiers.
-- But nobody told me . . .
-- Too bad. It is on the website. Climbers only can take it after 11am.

11点后?这在开玩笑吗?即便我磨破了嘴皮,说我们因此耽误了时间,可这位Lady就是不为所动,丝毫看不出一点同情来,我真是沮丧得要命,怎么办?我们去租滑雪板吧,不就能上去了吗?可是,博士不同意,他坚决不同意,而且他也不愿意等到11点才开始(虽然后来11点我们才走到那里)。唉,我没办法啦,只好服从,博士这回倒真的铁定了要去爬山,说,我们现在开始,We can make it ! ( So encouraging !)

就这样,我们去退了票(人家宁愿不赚这钱),0830, 我们的Hood之行,才正式开始,我们走上了雪地的第一步!(此波何止三折?我真是服了)

发表于 2017-6-1 18:29:35 | 显示全部楼层

[分享] Hood (4)

2017.5.26 Mount Hood

八点半,太阳高照,蓝天白雪,几乎没有风(预报风速是5km/h),Hood是那么独立的一座山,“Aim It!” 这样说,一点也不为过,就是这么直接、这么简单。滑雪道的右边,专门有竹竿隔成的“Climber‘s Trail” (有标记写着),脚印五花八门。我们在停车场check的温度是5℃,这样山顶差不多是-5℃,博士觉得合适。再测雪的温度,0℃。到了palmer's lift, 一看,还是0℃。这会儿博士告诉我,那这雪一直到山顶,都会是0℃,它们是整个一大块mass,就像夏天的雪一样。

刚走没多久,看到下山的人,问一个独行的小伙子,trail怎么样?危险吗? Not bad. 你一个人吗?No, three of us. We started at midnight and we split later. 昨夜的风很大啊,Oh,yes, very windy. 你用绳子什么的了吗?No. (当然没有,他一个人怎么用啊?)

20分钟后,我们穿上了crampons,雪还是硬的,一点也不难走,而且Hood一直就在你的面前,走起来十分养眼。渐渐地,我们走过了lift的中转站,也走到了palmer's lift, 至此我们已和不少下山的人擦肩而过了。心中暗喜,这样正好,等我们上去的时候,不就没人了吗?

Lift的终点站,海拔在2600m,离summit还有一个GG的拔高在等着我们。从这里往后,雪坡就开始加大了度数,先经过Devil's Kitchen (烟还冒着,厨房很忙呢),然后是Crater Rock (很active,博士开始以为是云呢),在Crater Rock和Pearly gates 之间,是Hogsback和Bergschrund。Hogsback是长长的窄窄的只容一人可行的traverse,右侧是一望无际的大斜坡(最好别看,看了就晕),那个32岁的西雅图登山者就是5月7号(20天前!)在这里滑坠遇难的。过了Hogsback,是“著名的”冰窟Bergschrund,好像直升机也出事的那一年,那些climbers一个个多米诺效应般就是掉进这里的。你怕crevasse吗?那也可以不走,从Hogsback左上,就进入Old Chutes Route,就可以不用经过这个冰窟。我们呢,Pearly Gates路线,必须过呀,博士在前面带着,我们离开了Hogsback, 向右,从右侧绕过宽大的裂缝,在尽头不宽的地方跨了过去(其实谁知道是不是尽头呢,有雪盖着,看不见),安全通过了!

因为此时已过正午,这里又是阳面,雪开始变软了,但又不是特别软,crampons踩下去,可以踩出脚印来,正合适,也感觉比较安全,所以我们没有结绳,但是因为是40-45℃的steep snow,我们全程Self-belay,而且都准备了两个ice-axe,沿着“stem”直上,到了根部,开始分叉了,条条大路通罗马,去天堂的门也不止一扇,右边的east chute是最大众的路线,因为离summit最近,也因此人最多,我们出发前看到登山者们不少都在这里排队上下,不用说,当然也更危险。我们呢,虽然再无他人(该下的都下了,没上的都被我们在Hogsback之前超过了),博士还是选择了west chute,从左边过这个chute后,再向右登顶。

这里不得不提,在这么温暖的天气,在west chute的其中一段,我即便是用镐尖,也插不进去。改为挥起胳膊抡下去,还是连半寸也不到(在想是不是力气都在Grand Wall Rappel的时候用光了),顿时更加全神贯注,一点也不敢马虎。这样的terrain,如果失足了,如果没有protection的话,哪里还能self-arrest?太难了。想想背后都冒冷汗,更加觉得我们迟点出发是120%的正确,试想在漆黑的夜里,踩在硬硬的冰雪地上,小坡就罢了,那个Hogsback,还有这些踩不出脚印的陡坡,加上不足的睡眠,能安全吗?何况又没有风景?真的连一点bonus也没有,嗯,还是我们这样更好!(very satisfied!)

穿过了很形象的chute,就是一片大雪地。Summit在哪里?根据TR里说,east chute最接近它,那就在我们的右上方了,之前还两步一歇的我,远远地听到了博士在顶峰的欢呼(还看不见),也不觉得累了,加快步伐,没几分钟后,啊哈,我们在“帽顶” 相见了!博士说得没错,summit就是有特别的魔力,吸引着每个登山者痴迷地追寻着它。对我来说,它就是锦上添花,让每一次令人享受的登山过程更加圆满。

完美,完美,还是完美!

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