The Rudiments of Alpine

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-15 05:24:33

The Rudiments of Alpine
Below is online material that supplements our Alpine Workshops and Alpine 101 training.

Content has been Compiled, Inspected, Approved and Recommended by 潘世博.

Great Alpine is waiting for you! 8)

Photo: Climbers approaching standard Colman-Deming Glacier route on mount Baker, WA (3,286 m). Taken from North Ridge on Jul-24 2010.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-15 05:25:38

The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

Climbing Fundamentals
Basic Safety System
1.  Fall Factor
2. How to Break Nylon & Dyneema® Slings [Vid]

Knots
1. Figure 8
2. Prussik Knot
3. Double Fisherman's Knot
4. Clove hitch
5. Munter hitch
6.  Bowline Knot  + variation
7.  Girth hitch
8.  Butterfly Knot
9. Overhand Knot
10. Munter Mule + variation
11. Slip Knot
12. Water Knot

Belaying
Top Rope and Lowering
Belaying the Leader
Escaping the Belay
Belaying second off anchor

Rapelling
Knots for Rappelling
Passing the Knot on Rappel

Anchors
Gear and Gear Placement

Rock Protection
Pitons

Rock climbing
Lead Fall

Snow & Ice Climbing
Snow Travel and Climbing
Self-Arrest
How to ice-axe self arrest
Using crampons
Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads

Emergency Prevention and Response
Alpine Rescue / Rescue From Technical Terrain
3:1 (Z) pulley system
5:1 Pulley System with a Petzl Reverso
Double Mariner Hauling Kit
Hauling: Counting Tensions & Estimating System Efficiency

Equipment
Carabiners
Harness
Helmet
Petzl Reverso (3) Belay Device
TIBLOC
Crampons
Avalanche transceiver Tracker DTS

Learning from Mistakes
1. British climber fall from Snowdon
2. The Beckoning Silence
3. Search suspended for hiker missing near Chilliwack.
4. NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS
5. A New Unwedded Widow's Journey

Miscellaneous

Appendix
1. Top ten technical skills of modern Alpine Climber
2. Glossary of climbing terms
3. Video playlist of supporting material

Other
1. Ammon McNeely
2. Alex Honnold

Link to this topic: http://goo.gl/J0UhVY

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-15 05:26:43

Figure 8 Knot

When to Use: attaching the rope to a sit harness

References
http://www.singingrock.com/attaching-the-rope-to-a-sit-harness

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-15 05:27:51

Prussik Knot

When to Use: as a backup for rappelling, as a ratchet in rescue systems, in (crevasse) hauling, climbing the rope, escaping belay, passing the knot

References
http://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php?Categ=climbing

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-15 06:32:14

Rock Climbing Basics: Toprope Belay Technique

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-15 09:13:23

Double Fisherman's Knot

When to Use: to join two ropes together

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_fisherman%27s_knot

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-15 09:35:10

Helmet

Helmets are a crucial piece of safety equipment for a variety of vertical activities. They protect the head against falling objects and against impacts with fixed objects - if the climber's head strikes the cliff in a fall, for example.

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock-climbing_equipment#Helmet

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 04:48:14

Clove Hitch

When to Use: to tie in to the anchor on multipitch

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clove_hitch

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 05:03:15

Munter hitch

When to Use: to belay, to rappel

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munter_hitch

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 06:45:00

About Fall Factor

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fall_factor

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 08:30:09

Ice axe arrest / self arrest

"Self-arrest is a mountaineering related maneuver in which a climber who has fallen and is sliding down a snow or ice slope arrests (stops) the slide by himself or herself without recourse to a rope or other belay system." - Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills

Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-arrest

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 12:14:03

5. Emergency Prevention and Response / Alpine Rescue / Rescue From Technical Terrain

3:1 (Z) Pulley System

Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z-drag

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 15:13:58

Bowline Knot
The bowline is sometimes referred as King of the knots because of its importance.

When to Use: to form a fixed loop at the end of a rope

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowline

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 15:44:30

Girth hitch
A simple and useful knotted structure, the knot has been known since at least the first century when described by Greek physician Heraklas in a monograph on surgical knots and slings.

When to Use: to attach a rope to an object

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cow_hitch

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 15:50:53

Butterfly Knot

When to Use: to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_loop

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 18:06:45

Overhand Knot
The overhand knot is one of the most fundamental knots and forms the basis of many others.

When to Use: to prevent the end of a rope from unraveling

References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overhand_knot

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 18:20:36

How to belay the leader with a REVERSO

References:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belaying
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/belaying-leader-in-rock-climbing

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-16 19:06:31

Petzl Reverso (3) Belay Device

A Reverso is a belay device developed and patented by Petzl, used for example in rock-climbing and other activities which involves rope-work. Another version of this device is the Reversino, intended for use with thinner ropes.

References
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/t ... port/B01-TIBLOC.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reverso

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-17 05:17:23

Escaping the Belay

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-18 19:10:16

Munter Mule Knot

When to use: tying off a climber.

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