The Rudiments of Alpine

PanShiBo

Slip Knot

When to use: as a temporary stopper knot to lock belay/rappel



Reference
http://www.animatedknots.com/slip/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog..

PanShiBo

TIBLOC

Compact emergency ascender.

In a bind, this ultra-lightweight ascender can be used to build hauling systems or as a Prusik-replacement in self-rescue situations.



Reference
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/multi-purpose-ascenders/tibloc
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/t ... port/B01-TIBLOC.pdf
Rudiments of Alpine. Directory

PanShiBo

Top ten technical skills of modern Alpine Climber

Here: http://goo.gl/NTzDeP

References
Rudiments of Alpine. Directory

PanShiBo

Water Knot

When to use: to join two ends of webbing together, for instance when making a sling.



Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_knot
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

PanShiBo

Climbing harness

Use: secures a person to a rope or an anchor point.



Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climbing_harness
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

PanShiBo

Belaying second off anchor



Reference
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

PanShiBo

Gear and Gear Placement



Reference
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

PanShiBo

Knots for Rappelling



Reference
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

PanShiBo

Using crampons

Usage: to improve mobility on snow and ice during ice climbing.



Reference
1. Crampons http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crampons
2. Front pointing http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Front_pointing
3. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

lulululu

Thanks for sharing! 要认真学习一下，尽管没打算玩mountaineering，但多学些outdoor知识只会有利无弊 :wink:

PanShiBo

Learning from Mistakes
British climber fall from Snowdon

DO NOT
1. Look up when something is falling on you (0:37, he had time to duck )
2. Climb unprotected (they were three climbers, enough to set running belay).

DO
1. Always know the answer to question: "what happens if  I fall?"
2. Always know the answer to question: "what happens if  something falls on me?"
3. Wear a helmet ( he did )

PanShiBo

Learning from Mistakes
The Beckoning Silence

Analysis
All climbers had excellent technical skills, which is enough when no trouble happens. However, they lacked emergency rescue training and knowledge. This is more an issue these days (and more deaths), when gym climbers enter alpine: in gym one can start leading on the first day, skipping safety altogether as it is already provided (solid belay anchors, cushion mats, etc.) when in alpine one starts from building safety habits first and only after 2-3 seasons he can start getting confident.
"Gym climber is not automatically an alpine climber. " - Freedom of the Hills

DO NOT
Refuse help when it is offered.

DO
1. Always know the answer to question: "what happens if I fall?"
2. Always know the answer to question: "what happens if something falls on me?"
3. Wear a helmet ( rock fall caused head injury and the rest followed )
4. Know how to use Prusik Knot, Slip Knot, Munter Mule to transfer the load ( Toni Kurz died within 2-3 meters above rescue because he was stopped by rappel knot that he couldn't pass )
5. Practice passing rappel knot.
6. Have all your gear securely attached at all times ( rescue crew lost primary climbing rope which slipped off the backpack, Toni lost his glove so his left hand froze through the night )
7. Know when to turn back ( even after the head injury of one of them they continued to climb )
8. Carry emergency warmers ( a couple of modern Zippo hand warmers will do )



Reference
1. Toni Kurz
2. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
3. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

PanShiBo

Rammstein
Ohne Dich

German Heavy Metal (Rammstein) view of alpinism. Over-drama and some cliches for sure, but they got their point across. 祝大家周末安全。8)

"Ohne Dich"  = Without you

PanShiBo

Alpine Tip #4 - Correct Order of Pitching a Tent in Snow.

1. Using snow shovel make a flat platform and lay down tent.


2. Attach tent to anchors.

2. a - for each tent floor attachment loop: dig a whole


2. b - place a snow anchor


..and press snow in layers


2. c - tie tent to the anchor with slip knot + stopper overhand


3. only after tent has been attached to the snow, erect the tent



4. dig a comfort entrance trench


5. put the fly, set additional snow anchors, tie fly to anchors

PanShiBo

Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads

Also, regardless ice, rock, or snow, this order is the same
2:25 - leader places 1st placement and attaches with clove hitch
2:33 - build 2 point anchor. use SRENE principle. master attachment point never opens the gate after it has been closed.
3:19 - belay second off anchor using Reverso
3:37 - second arrives, attaches with clove hitch to master attachment point
3:50 - placing Jesus nut



References
1. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
2. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

PanShiBo

Alpine Tip #13 Don’t glissade
It is safer to walk than to glissade; glissading is a tempting option that often results in lost equipment and injuries

Loss of Control While Glissading (Thiel)
Washington, Mount Rainier, Emmons/Winthrop Glacier Route

On June 3rd, Doug Thiel, 40, and his two climbing partners summited Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier Route. On their descent, Thiel started to experience a great deal of knee pain. The pain became so intense that he preferred to glissade instead of walking down. Thiel decided to glissade while roped and wearing crampons; it was the team’s intent to descend in this fashion back to Camp Schurman.

At 11,600 feet Thiel hit an icy section and was unable to stop his slide. He slid uncontrollably past his partners and pulled them off their feet, all three fell 75-100 feet before Thiel’s two partners arrested. Thiel sustained a lower left leg injury in the process and recalled the rope wrapping around his leg, which he feels contributed to the injury.

At 3:30 pm, the Park received a cell phone call from Thiel’s team detailing the accident and requesting assistance. With a large rescue and body recovery already in progress on Liberty Ridge, the I.C. dispatched a reserve climbing ranger team to the site of the new accident. Climbing rangers Stefan Lofgren and Stoney Richards were inserted on the Emmons Glacier via light helicopter near 11,300 feet. They ascended to the accident site, assessed Thiel and then carried him to a Landing Zone (LZ.) From that LZ Thiel was flown to the Kautz Helibase where he was transferred to an ambulance.

Analysis:

Thiel wanted to avoid requesting outside help while descending. Unfortunately, glissading, particularly on the upper mountain glaciers while wearing crampons, is dangerous. It would have been safer and more efficient for Thiel’s partners to have steadily lowered him in a sitting position, one rope-length at a time. On most sections they could have simply lowered him hand over hand. On steeper sections, they could have lowered him off set protection (pickets, ice axes, etc). In the end, it is always best to avoid glissading.

A reserve climbing rescue team established during the initial Liberty Ridge incident provided the opportunity to seamlessly complete this second mission. The mission difficulties were amplified, however, by a Park-wide power outage that cut base radio and phone line communications.

Loss of Control While Glissading (Rettig)
Washington, Mount Rainier, Unicorn Peak

On the morning of July 24th, a four-person team from the Mazamas Climbing Club set out to climb Unicorn Peak in the Tatoosh Range. On the descent from the summit at roughly 2:30 pm, Joska Rettig, 50, lost control while glissading a steep snowfield. She sustained a serious injury to her left knee and leg when she impacted the rocks at the base of the snowfield. One member of the team was sent to seek assistance from the NPS while climb leader Jae Ellers splinted Rettig’s leg with an ice axe and started her crawling back towards the road. Her progress was exceedingly slow, but very admirable.

Ellers was beginning a belay of Rettig down the steep loose rock gully feeding Snow Lake when climbing rangers Glenn Kessler and Thomas Payne arrived. The rangers assisted in Rettig’s descent until they met another NPS team of rescuers. That team placed Rettig on a backboard and then into a litter for what became a night carryout to the trailhead. Upon reaching the Snow Lake trailhead, Rettig was transferred to an awaiting ambulance.

Analysis:

Don’t glissade. It is safer to walk than to glissade; glissading is a tempting option that often results in lost equipment and injuries. The slope on which Rettig lost control was a combination of hard and soft snow. It is very likely that Rettig was able to control her speed on the upper sections of the slope where the sun had been shining for hours, but was unable to slow herself on the lower, mostly shaded section.

Reference
1. Glissade (climbing)
2. Search and Rescue Reports

PanShiBo

Alpine Tip #16 - Choose climbing partners carefully

The U.S. National Park Service strongly recommends choosing climbing partners carefully, considering not only the ability to reach the summit, but how a partner will perform in the event of an emergency or stressful situation.

Slip and Fall on Snow/Rock (Cooley)
Washington, Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge

Saturday, May 15th - Climber Scott Richards called Mount Rainier National Park on a cell phone requesting a rescue for his climbing partner Peter Cooley at 6:10 am, Saturday May 15th. The two-person team was ascending Liberty Ridge near 12,000 feet when Cooley’s crampon caught and he fell while leading. Richards was on the opposite side of the ridge crest when the accident occurred and was able to stop the fall using a hip belay. Cooley had fallen approximately 30 feet and hit his head, sustaining severe head trauma including a skull fracture as well as injuries to his left arm and leg. At roughly 6:30 am Ranger Mike Gauthier advised Richards via cell phone to chop out a platform, secure their tent, and stabilize and prepare Cooley for a lengthy evacuation. Scheduled cell phone calls were arranged to conserve the team’s cell phone batteries.

An Oregon Army National Guard Chinook and contract helicopter and climbing field teams were assembled for the rescue. At that time the weather was deteriorating rapidly, and forecasts predicted large amounts of precipitation. On its initial reconnaissance, the contract helicopter approached Liberty Ridge but due to whiteout conditions was forced to land on the Carbon Glacier at 8,000 feet and wait for a clearing. Because of the increasing clouds near the mountain, the Oregon National Guard Chinook helicopter was sent to Rimrock, WA instead of Kautz Helibase inside the park to connect with an aviation rescue team of NPS rangers and Rainier Mountaineering guides (RMI.)

An air-assisted rescue seemed uncertain because of weather conditions so a field team of two climbing rangers was hastily assembled and dispatched to make a quick ascent of Liberty Ridge. The advanced climbing rescue team of David Gottlieb and Chris Olson departed Ipsut Creek Campground Saturday at 4:00 pm. Heavy rain and snowfall slowed Gottlieb and Olson, forcing them to bivouac on lower Curtis Ridge that evening. A second team consisting of five climbing rangers also assembled at Ipsut Creek Campground. They carried extra supplies and prepared to support the advance team for a lengthy ground evacuation.

Late afternoon clearing around the mountain allowed the contract helicopter to depart the Carbon Glacier and return to Kautz Helibase. Richards was apprised of the rescue efforts and difficulties. He prepared for a night on the mountain at the accident site with Cooley.

Sunday, May 16th - Via cell phone, Richards reported that Cooley was in and out of consciousness all night and was unable to eat or drink. The weather remained inclement for much of the day.

A team of five climbers from Tacoma Mountain Rescue (TMR) departed Ipsut Creek Campground at 11:00 am after a briefing at Longmire. Another TMR team of two staffed the Camp Muir hut. The Chinook Helicopter with a NPS/RMI rescue team was held on standby in Yakima awaiting a break in the weather. The Chinook team prepared for a hoist insertion and evacuation of Cooley. The contract helicopter was also placed on standby at Kautz Helibase. Equipment and food caches to support field teams and rescue operations were prepared. Food, fuel, communication and rescue equipment were ferried via ground teams to lower Curtis Ridge (7,200 feet). Another cache for a yet-to-be-established field operations base camp was prepared at Kautz Helibase for a helicopter drop. A third sling load of supplies including a rescue litter was prepared for Richards at the accident site. In all, over 60 people joined in the rescue effort; the event generated international media attention.

At noon, the Chinook team attempted a flight with rescue personnel but heavy cloud cover and foul weather caused the mission to be aborted. Difficult climbing conditions and harsh weather made progress for the ground/climbing teams very arduous. Rangers Gottlieb and Olson worked through whiteout conditions and deep snow on the Carbon Glacier to prepare a field operations base camp at 8,800 feet in the Carbon Glacier basin below Willis Wall. A six-person climbing ranger team later joined them while the TMR team prepared a camp at 7,200 feet on lower Curtis Ridge. At 6:35 pm the weather briefly cleared above the Carbon Glacier, allowing the contract helicopter to conduct reconnaissance at the accident site and deliver a sling load of supplies, including a radio to replace Richard’s dead cell phone.

On the evening of May 16th, climbing rangers Gottlieb and Charlie Borgh prepared for an ascent of Liberty Ridge on the morning of the 17th. They planned to access the accident site, a 50-55 degree ice slope at roughly 12,000 feet, evaluate the scene and determine the feasibility for a helicopter evacuation or, if impossible, a technical rope rescue. Behind them climbing rangers Greg Johnson, Olson, Andy Anderson, Adrienne Sherred and Bree Loewen, laden with camping and rigging equipment, climbed to Thumb Rock and established an advanced camp. Ranger Glenn Kessler remained at base camp to manage field operations.

The Oregon Guard Chinook helicopter and crew remained on alert in Yakima and a contract helicopter remained on station at Kautz helibase. Richards, still at the accident site with Cooley was alerted of the plan.

Monday, May 17th - The contract helicopter attempted to sling load additional supplies to the climbing teams however the weather again thwarted the aviation operation. The Chinook insertion team also attempted a mountain flight but was unable due to weather and was forced to return to Yakima. Additional supplies and equipment were ferried via ground teams from Ipsut Creek campground to 7,200 feet on Lower Curtis Ridge.

Around noon, Gottlieb and Borgh arrived at the 11,800 foot accident site. Gottlieb attempted a medical assessment and relayed information to medical control via cell phone. Only limited care could be provided due to the conditions, patient and rescuer safety concerns. The team also prepared the area and set ice anchors preparing for a technical rescue. The weather improved throughout the afternoon and at 2:30 pm, the contract helicopter delivered a sling load to the 8,800 foot camp, while a supply cache was transported to Thumb Rock. The stabilizing weather also allowed the Chinook insertion team to head for the mountain at 4:30 pm.

As the Chinook lumbered over the mountain at 5:03 pm, Cooley was extracted via vertical litter hoist. He was immediately flown to Madigan Hospital and, very sadly, pronounced dead. Gottlieb and Borgh descended Liberty Ridge with Richards to spend the night at Thumb Rock.

Tuesday, May 18th - Gottlieb, Borgh and Richards descended the remainder of Liberty Ridge and were flown off the mountain from 8,800 feet along with the two other climbing rangers overseeing field aviation operations. All other field personnel descended to Ipsut Creek Campground, picking up the caches on their way.

Analysis:

Cooley and Richards were accomplished climbers, and this accident was not a result of any lapse in judgment or lack of skill. Cooley’s short, but ultimately fatal fall seems to be the result of an unfortunate misstep. Cooley was wearing a climbing helmet, but sometime during the fall he hit his head on a rock that contacted his temple just under the helmet brim. That impact eventually caused his death.

Any serious injury on a remote route at high elevation can be life-threatening due to the difficulty of access and evacuation. This accident highlights the difficulties of high altitude rescue on technical terrain, particularly when exacerbated by poor weather. Aviation is a key element of many successful upper-mountain rescues of climbers with serious injuries. When weather precludes flying, the survival of a critically injured climber is often compromised.

The fact that Richards was able to care for his climbing partner for almost 60 hours on a small exposed platform that he chopped in ice during poor weather speaks highly of him as an alpinist, rescuer and friend. The NPS strongly recommends choosing climbing partners carefully, considering not only the ability to reach the summit, but how a partner will perform in the event of an emergency or stressful situation.

While many were saddened by the outcome of this extended event after so much effort by so many people, it should be noted that the rescue was also a great success in that Richards returned safely and no rescuers were hurt. Without his climbing partner Richards would have been placed in the difficult position of soloing the route in order to reach safety.

Reference:
Search and Rescue Reports

PanShiBo

Alpine Tip #23 - Don't climb in questionable weather

Although technically it is possible to climb in so-so weather (low-visibility, strong winds, rain, or even whiteouts), a minor accident can easily grow into a serious one because help can't be readily available. Before the climb, check weather for the climbing day AND the following day too, so if air evacuation is required, rescue helicopter can fly to the accident site.

See Tip 16 for the related accident: the climber's life could have been saved if not inclement weather following his short fall.

Photo: dense clouds covering Coleman-Deming Glacier, Mount Baker WA, Jun-7 2014

PanShiBo

..

PanShiBo

How to Break Nylon & Dyneema® Slings [Vid]
About fall factor, knots and sling material (dynamic / semi static / static (Nylon) / static (Dyneema) ).

"Never position yourself above the anchor" - you have been already told that at the Alpine Workshops, but here is a very supporting video of the same idea released by DMM lab.

..Tying a knot in a Dyneema® sling weakens it ..leading to sling failure in a fall-factor 1 ..

Video about drop-tower test conducted by DMM:
http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge ... lon-dyneema-slings/

References
1. The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
2. Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber