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发表于 2012-9-26 16:46:49
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I am very fortunate to meet Robin/everie/Daisy/季候鳥 in Denali. If Robin's car has one more seat, I will certainly jump the ship.
I made the last minute decision and didn't find buddy for the trip. I arrived 9/10, and left 9/18. It was a driving tour, 2500km in 9 days, 2 night tent camp in wonder lake, 2 night in hostel, 4 nights are car camping. I rent a subaru from Avis, the car handling is super.
I flew in Fairbanks --> Denali --> ANC--> Seward --> Cooper Landing --> Valdez --> Denali Hwy --> Denali lottery driving tour to Wonder lake --> Fairbanks --> Chena hot spring --> Flew out FAI
http://goo.gl/maps/aFnBd
Road condition: 30 miles north of Seward there are construction, about 15-20 delay. Sterling highway has some construction, about 10-15 delay. Denali Hwy has a lot of pithole, I drive about 25-30 mile per hour and find out trouble.
Robin said Dalton Hwy is tough, particularly when there is truck driving in other direction. I heard Old Edgerton Hwy/Mccarthy road is very bad after paved road, but I didn't get chance to drive on it.
I opt out cruise/flight tour, I think it's right decision due to the heavy rain and wind in Seward/Valdez.
the trail I hike:
1)The Alpine Trail which runs steeply up Thorofare Ridge in strong wind, and trail is covered with snow. only me and the ranger.
2) upper Russian lake trail. I didn't record how many miles I hike, it should be 4 miles one way. The signpost doesn't show milepost. Far away, I can see a glacier, the shape is quite similar to Exit Glacier. didn't see a soul on the trail, but some mountain bike track high up in the mountain. a lot of bushwhack and I get wet 100% here.
3) McKinley bar trail, start at 9 and back 11:45am
4) walk to reflection pond from campground. I wish I catch the shuttle. With tripod, it's a long hike.
About wildlife:
1)in Denali, saw grizzly 3 times , 14 Dall sheep in the river valley, 4 wolfs, 1 bull moose, couple of ptarmigan, no caribou.
2)in Kincaid Park, 3 cow moose and the calf.
3)2 Caribou in Denali Hwy
For photography, the memorable spot:
1) reflection pond in Denali, sunrise/sunset in Wonder Lake campground
2) 5 mile south of Copper center on Richardson Hwy
3) somewhere close to Hope cut-off on Seward Hwy
4) Matanuska Glacier, not inside the private property, but on the recreation area (right by the hwy)
Turnagain arm, Denali Hwy, Park Hwy, Thomas Pass, Polychrome in Denali supposed to be very good, but it's raining hard or fall color pass the peak already.
Temperature wise, lowest temperature is in Wonder lake (15F), Fairbanks is pretty mild(30-60F), Seward and Valdez is raining, luckily 3 days in Denali is sunny. it snows from 9/7-9/9 in Denali, and park road after salvage river close temporally. Other than that, it's pretty warm in day time, particularly in Fairbanks, it's about 55 degree during daytime.
No mosquito in Denali NP, but a lot of them in the south viewpoint on Park Hwy, and in Seward/exit Glacier. No mosquito in Valdez (maybe due to heavy rain).
the only possible chance to see northern light is 9/10 night (15F) at wonder lake, but too tired and cold to get up. Some guy in the park said they saw it.
I followed this site for the forecast: http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast. it's level 1 when I was at Fairbanks.
I end up wear my hiking boot, instead of trail running shoe. Some snow covered on trail in Denali. And in cooper landing's Russin River trail, I get wet 100%, so the Vasque Breeze Gore-Tex Hiking Boots make my foot comfortable.
Regarding food, I brought my Primus TiLite Stove, I am so glad I bring this. It's cold at Wonder Lake.
about the timing, 9/9-18 is good time because less visitor, The two hostel I stayed, I didn't make reservation online, just walk in. Gift shop cut price to 50%.
The down side is the fall color pass the peak. Next time I will do it around Labor day weekend. Robin said the most impressive place is on Dalton Hwy (during labor day weekend) -- it might due to fall color is long gone in Denali at 9/10).
for the fall color, Fairbanks (9/17-18) and 20 mile south on Park Hwy is in peak; 9/14-16 Thomas pass on Richarson Hwy, Matanuska Glacier on Glennallen Hwy, Hope cut-off on Seward Hwy is slightly pass the peak; Chena hot spring road(9/17), Denali Hwy(9/16), Denali National Park (9/9) pass the peak.
Most memorable moment: sunset by Reflection pond on 9/17, The park close for the season on that day. I can claim I am the last visitor in the park. I left wonder lake around 8:45, and back to park entrance around 11. A true solitude experience.
for the expense: flight ticket, I use AA mileage, 25k miles for round trip; for car, I rent mini-suv for $220/9 days from avis; for gas, It cost roughly $250 for 2500km driving. average $4/gallon, but $4.7/gallon at entrance of Denali park. 2 night hostel are $25/night. camper's bus and two night at wonder lake is about $80. a seafood dish is ranging $20-35. If I put flight ticket aside, the total cost is about $800. |
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发表于 2012-9-25 17:58:08
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发表于 2012-9-27 22:19:46
发表于 2012-9-27 22:26:07