Some photos

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-12-30 20:39:32

2017 TOP TWELVE

2. Elephant Butte, Utah, the highest point in Arches National Park.

This trip definitely belongs to our "Do it again!" list. 8)

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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-12-31 08:13:42

2017 TOP TWELVE

3. Mount Kinesava, Utah

Before the climb Vera, as always, went around to "gather information" on the route. A tall American US park ranger, looking down and sizing Vera, who is very short, pronounced "It is NOT a hike! It is a BIG mountain!" 8)

TIP: Zion National Park in Utah is an excellent place to hang around in winter time.
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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

数码叮叮 · 发表于 2017-12-31 08:36:10

2017 TOP TEN 1. Alpine 101 Course

Boshi and Vera: It is a life change course! Thanks very much for your guidance and mentoring on the fundamentals of mountaineering. Happy New Year!

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-12-31 11:47:38

2017 TOP TWELVE

4. Lady Mountain, Utah

Getting off the shuttle bus, Vera always being diligent with her task "to gather all information possibly available", approached a group of climbers. "Where is Lady Mountain?" she asked. They pointed out, it was right there in front (or rather high above to be presize) of the bus station. Then the question followed (skeptical of course) "Do you carry a climbing rope?".

Typical landscape of the Lady. ( This is not the crux! )

There is not many alpine peaks that have a shuttle bus stop right next to the trailhead. With Lady Mountain you start climbing almost immediately after getting off. Which also means that your trip is not over until you get back down. It is steep there, better be back before the dark.

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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-12-31 13:42:43

2017 TOP TWELVE

5. Grand Wall Rappel
https://www.crossna.org/forum.php?mod=redirect&ptid=28505

It was such an epic trip! Excuse me for using the common cliche, but it was really "character building". You get to know your climbing partner in a way you can't know otherwise. And you get to know yourself too: here it's simply impossible to be fake.

Looking forward to repeat!

PHOTO: Wow! That's lots of air! After the first rap you will be 100% committed, you can't change your mind and easily walk out, there is only one way - down. Ten pitches, two roofs, bracing for unexpected. 8)

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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-12-31 18:18:50

2017 TOP TWELVE

6. Mt. Yushan, the tallest peak in Taiwan and also the highest mountain in East Asia and the Far East.

In case you didn't know, to climb this one is hard not because it is difficult, but because of their permits system. Locals wait for two-three years to get there. However, foreigners get separate quota. Filling an application itself is a super crazy headache. After dealing with this kind of stuff, one can't help but realize that we in North America are rather spoiled, where basically one can climb anything anytime as one wishes.

As a bonus, we also climbed XueShan, the second highest mountain in Taiwan and in East Asia. Not surprisingly, and to my delight, when Vera went to a police station to get their permit (yes, one needs also a police clearance, that's after one provides an ID of a Taiwanese national as a guarantor, and a separate park permit), she was informed that "No one climbs it in one day!" 8)

Speaking about Taiwanese guarantors - without one you can't climb certain peaks (e.g. XueShan) and you can't fake it - the police will actually make a phone call to verify the identity!
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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-12-31 20:18:30

2017 TOP TWELVE

7. Fuji-san, Japan, the country’s tallest peak.

"A wise man climbs Fuji once. Only a fool climbs it twice." - old saying. 8)

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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2017-12-31 20:50:14

2017 TOP TWELVE

8. Mount Wilcox, Alberta

Finally, after two failed previous attempts, we climbed this one. We missed the fork and entered some class 5 terrain, arriving at the top from the "wrong side".

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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-1-1 07:16:41

2017 TOP TWELVE

9. Longs Peak, Colorado, the highest point in Rocky Mountain National Park

This peak had been on our list for a few years. It was worth it! Despite its deserved huge popularity (located in a US National Park, and no permits required!) we were the only party on the summit.

Colorado's Boletus (牛肝菌) - found at elevation 3,000m were the tastiest we've ever had! 8)

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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-1-1 11:06:17

2017 TOP TWELVE

10. 四姑娘大峰 (5,025m), China

This peak has been on my list for more than 10 years! What else can I say?! 8)

Not many people can correctly identify what it is that makes the serious mountaineering to stand apart from hiking, rock climbing, ice climbing, golfing, knitting, etc. The answer is simple but not so obvious to many: it is the absolute necessity for one to have an alpine climbing partner: hard to find and even harder to keep. Without realizing the actual reason, people join alpine clubs like BCMC, ACC, VOC - to find someone to climb with. If everyone had a climbing partner, these clubs would cease to exist. Ironically, alpine clubs don't have many alpine trips posted on their online schedules: no-one in his mind will climb with a bunch of strangers he never met, but once found a climbing partner, they don't need the club anymore and leave to go climb together elsewhere. Those who failed to find a climbing partner eventually give up alpine altogether and take up on skiing, ice-skating, swimming, running, cycling, etc. Think about it. 8)

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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-1-1 13:20:27

2017 TOP TWELVE

11. Mount Hood, Oregon

...being Oregon's highest mountain, it is one of the loftiest mountains in the nation based on its prominence.

A classic steep-snow climb. Very popular too. Good parking that they allow to car-camp at. As all the crowd left early (a.k.a. "alpine start"), and we of course didn't bother and had a very good sleep instead, we were at the top when everybody had already left. Good memories, as always. :)

Speaking about infamous "alpine start". Nobody has ever explained (using the reason, not the emotions) to me why bother to travel dangerous technical terrain like zombies, without previous night sleep, in absolute darkness. Is it safer? I doubt it - the surface is still cold and frozen, hard and icy; you can't see well what you are doing and where you are going. That's what killed someone there a few weeks earlier - a slip, a fall, and a fatality.
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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-1-2 07:16:24

2017 TOP TWELVE

12. Mt. Shasta, CA

每个新的一天都有可能是你此生的最后一天。
阳光洒满田野，痛苦点亮灵魂。

https://www.crossna.org/forum.php?mod=redirect&ptid=28951

终于你到达了顶峰，但意外往往发生在归途。

D210
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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-1-4 13:21:10

2018.01.03 Unnecessary South

If it's the third year in a row that we begin with this trip to Unnecessary South, then it already can be called an annual tradition, no? 8)

See 2017 here and 2016 here.

vera · 发表于 2018-1-4 13:22:48

2018.01.03 Unnecessary South (contd.)

2018，不管你是否愿意、是否欢迎，它真的来了。点子多多的博士，在ACC上贴了元旦登高：Unnecessary South Peak，唔，看来博士对它绝对是情有独钟啊，否则怎么会连续三次都选它？（谁能猜对个中缘由？猜中的，可以试试到博士那里领奖哦！）

从圣诞到新年，推及整个寒假，是我们这个Health care领域的“OT”期（overtime），几乎每天都有OT offer，因为太多sick call了。我所在的两个单位都问了我是否可以元旦上班，我便推了一个、接了一个。那怎么去Unnecessary？怎么办？看来2018博士的第一个trip，要与我擦肩而过了。看天气预报，都在说1月1号是晴天，再看雪崩情况，都满足了博士的treeline必须是“LOW”的要求。得得得，只剩下眼馋的机会了。（唉，无奈啊！我最不喜欢在阳光明媚的日子里上班！）但Gloria和Lily报了名，我就替她们高兴，因为我知道，对她们这样求知欲强的人，博士肯定不会只是hiking而已，他一定会“折腾折腾”她们(in a good way)。（哈哈，果不其然！）

31号上班到晚上11点，雪崩指数妥妥地一直在low/low/low，并称一直有效到2号下午1400，好，铁板钉钉，我心理上已经做好了等着看大片的准备。身在曹营心在汉，我一边工作，一边阳光下Unnecessary长长的山脊时不时地出现在我眼前，也真有意思啊，每一年去那里都是天气奇好，看来今年也不会例外。

虽然1号要上班不能睡懒觉，但奇怪了，不知哪根筋搭错，三点多就醒了，顺便看了预报，我简直不敢相信自己的眼睛：雪崩提示变成了Moderate/Moderate/Low！怎么会这样？怎么可能？会不会是我错点了别的区域？我重新打开链接，South Coast，没错；issue的时间，居然是昨天6pm前的。可是昨天下午6点后看的并不是同样的结果。不得其解，就发给了安全第一的博士，顺便也发去了我的困惑。不一会儿，博士的邮件到了：Trip status-- Cancelled，博士改成了3号！

这不就是老天在眷顾我吗？上帝奇妙地给了你机会，绝对不能错过，马上报名！随后，Gloria、Lily也都上了waiting list；再过一会儿，我们的名字都上了确认名单。

Unnecessary South，几经波折，有缘者终会相见的（我超信！）。这不，我们来了！

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-1-4 13:23:20

2018.01.03 Unnecessary South (contd.)

This trail (HSCT south) is one of the best on the North Shore in winter: avalanche safest (because mostly under treeline or just a ridge walk), parking at the safe ski area (no potential break-ins), excellent views, a healthy 10-hours work-out (15km total distance, 1,500m elevation gain)

PHOTO: View from St. Marks over Howe Sound

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-1-4 20:31:45

2018.01.04 BCMC Trail

California Climbers' Salute at the Chalet

vera · 发表于 2018-1-5 07:32:30

2018.01.04 BCMC Trail (contd.)

真没想到，今天竟然会有机会走一走BCMC！

因为预报都说今天要下雨，昨天10小时2018的首秀 Unnecessary South之后，根本就没想到还会有什么意外发生，所以一贯把装备都放在车里的我，竟然把背包整个背进了家门。一早就去上班，还特别地忙，忙得都没时间休息。偶一上网，咦，博士BCMC的召集帖一大早就贴出来了，赶紧报名。为什么呢？因为上班、爬山两不误，这样的机会也不多，能抓一次就抓一次，不是吗？但是我的小冰爪也不在（要求的gear没有，那怎么行？），求助之后，还是博士有办法，带了crampons给我，解决了这个大问题。

三点一刻，准时接了博士，wow，往狮门桥方向双车道！我们顺利地到了北温，松鸡山的parking也有位，真的是ZERO麻烦，令人好舒心。我们像往常一样，特别check了头灯、PASS，就向TH走去。“不知道什么时候要穿冰爪？” “马上。立刻。从一开始。” “你怎么知道？” “因为我不久前还来过。” 博士很自信。

GG的门，意料之中地关着。下到parking，沿左侧带冰的小道，走上去BCMC的路。雪呢？没有！带着一丝困惑，继续前行。上到trail，一眼望去，一点白色都不见，哪有冬日的痕迹？看来最近的气温实在太高了。一直到#80，才看到些冰，博士停了下来，冰爪时间到。自此，冰雪只是断断续续，#125左右那个shortcut，也不是百分百的snow trail, 哦，雪竟然化掉了那么多，快到时，还听到潺潺的水声，这不就是冬天过后的感觉吗？踩在湿雪上，不是清脆的，而是需要一点力才可以提起脚来迈向下一步，但是，走在BCMC上，怎么都是我喜欢的，静静地跟着，随便想着什么、不想什么都行，完全就是一个属于自己的世界。

到了，看到夜色中的chalet，见不到晃动的人影，我不禁叹道“真安静啊”，“不对，你错了，不是这样的。” 确实，我看到的只是一个假象，一走进去，马上就是人头攒动，大都是滑雪的，热闹极了。CCS？当然要！一次，两次，就算每次都拍得好，三次是必须的。有此经历的，一定明白我的意思吧？好中选好，乐此不疲，这也是博士的风格之一。想起Lily昨天拍合影时说的“我就在这里站着不动了”，为什么？因为精益求精的博士很可能要“再来一次”，那我们当然要好好配合他！

在圣诞灯火依然明亮的夜晚，我们结束了2018 的第一次BCMC。看着星空，我盼望着雪快点下吧，下吧，还要再冷一点，这样就可以跟着博士去climbing了！期待！

Lynn2014 · 发表于 2018-1-5 13:27:40

Top Twelve, 高山仰止 :cool!: :cb:

PanShiBo
2017 TOP TWELVE

12. Mt. Shasta, CA

[quote]每个新的一天都有可能是你此生的最后一天。
阳光洒满田野，痛苦点亮灵魂。

https://www.crossna.org/forum.php?mod=redirect&ptid=28951

终于你到达了顶峰，但意外往往发生在归途。

D210
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2017 TOP TWELVE LIST here[/quote]

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-1-5 18:09:11

2018.01.03 Unnecessary South (contd.)

California Climbers' Salute at St. Marks

vera · 发表于 2018-1-7 14:33:55

2018.01.03 Unnecessary South (contd.)

到了Cypress的滑雪场，蓝天，完全的阳光灿烂，加上温暖无风，爽极了！连忙取了许可证，整理好背包，正准备抬脚呢，博士的第一个作业就来了：

-- check beacon 并保持打开状态
-- check radio 调到同一频道，测试通话并锁住
-- GPS定位：你得知道你的车在哪里（举例：曾经有人爬Matier时因为没有mark帐篷的位置，结果绕着帐篷走了一夜，也没找到）

一小段的小冰爪之后，要换雪鞋了，第二个作业到：假设现在whiteout，你要回到车里，告诉我要走哪个方向、走多远？（他们三个忙着交流各自的GPS，我就给他们拍照片）

走上熟悉的HSCT，经过那个Lions的“view point”，想起曾经在这里失踪的人们，心里不免生出很多杂七杂八的感慨。博士可不会闲着，还不停地变换着他的“drill”，而且还开始计时，要求一分钟之内必须给出答案：先复习到TH有多远？Lily和Gloria都很棒，都提前完成了（不能不赞！）。再走一段，转问“到目的地现在还有多远？” 这一改变，大家都愣了一下，“目的地？” 哦，原来是问到山顶的距离，那就先找到顶峰的坐标 . . . . . . 同时，博士还教她们怎么校正GPS，说在使用之前要先校正，否则可能会得到错误的结论。

就这样教着学着、用着走着，我们到了St Mark，Check：到Unnecessary South1.9km。在这么优美的地方，稍作停留那是必须的，他们一个劲儿地拍，可我的小傻瓜机太傻了，实在撑不起这样的大场面，就不凑这个热闹了。博士还给我们品尝了他的自制饮品（确实非常好喝），我们猛夸他，他说起配方来的样子真是好得意哦！

小憩之后，整装待发。虽然只有1.9km，但我知道，用不了多久，考验你的部分就到了，那就是先下后上，而且坡度还不小：下要小心翼翼，上要不屈不挠。以前爬山的时候特别怕这样的，因为现在怎么下去，等会儿还得怎么上来。但是，我也和博士说了，自从去了Holy Cross，我就再也没有这样的问题了，或者说，这样的情形就再也不能把我打败了。（不信？那就去Colorado试一下吧，一定有效！）

今天，要到这座Unnecessary的山，这些迂回曲折、上上下下，却都是necessary、必须面对的。反过来想想，有时候我们为着一些其实meaningless的“目标”，整日操劳，到最后也不知道自己到底在追逐什么，真的很ironic。方向，一个正确的方向，比什么都重要！（在对的路上的一小步，远胜过误入歧途的百步、千步，我觉得）

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