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发表于 2018-2-19 07:44:57
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2018.02.12 Spindle Peak via Spindle Couloir (contd.)
When "The S.O.S." Button was pressed?
We carried SPOT and Satellite phone - Vera had SPOT and I had the phone. We also carried our two-way radios. I had regular cell phone as well. After she slipped, I saw her tumbling down, head down, head up, sideways, bumping up and hitting the surface, ice-axe in the air. For that kind of technical icy steep slope, which we front-pointed all the way up, with two axes, it is impossible to self-arrest. All you can do is to hope that your ice-axe won't pierce through your stomach in the fall. The fall lasted only 2-3 seconds. She didn't scream or yell. Suddenly it was quiet. I couldn't see her. I paged her on the radio "你在吗"？ There was silence, but I could hear the beep of her radio down below. I could hear its weak but sharp echo from the north walls of Widow Maker. I finished the last rappel and started downclimbing. I paged again and again "你在吗"？ Silence again, except the same remote beep of her radio. Then I saw the blood on the snow. It was a single small red frozen piece of Slurpee. I picked it up, looked close at it and wanted to keep it, which was silly, of course. A sinister voice inside me whispered "See that? You might not need to hurry anymore". I kept paging Vera, but noticed that I couldn't hear the beep of her radio anymore. "你在吗？ 你在吗!？"
Further down I found her broken sunglasses (which I picked up), a pair of gloves teared off her hands. I put the gloves in the inner pocket of my down jacket but they kept falling out. Some other voice inside me yelled "Stupid! You are wasting your time! Hurry!". Then I saw her, on her knees, hands waving. She yelled "Call 911!", I yelled back, "Press SPOT SOS button!". She slowly lay down, facing the snow, as if preparing to sleep. I hoped, like five years ago on Crown, there will be cell phone signal, and tried to dial 911 from my cellphone, but it didn't work. I tried to use sat phone, but the electronic voice on the other end would say "You can't dial 911". I felt I indeed was wasting time, BIG way. I resumed down, quick, it was still some distance to do. Then I saw her SPOT sitting on the snow, also teared off her pack in the fall. I picked it up. That's when I pressed the SOS button. Now, for the SPOT to send emergency message, it takes some time to get working, the log below shows the very first SOS received by the GEOS International Emergency Response Center. It was 17:55.
Vera's radio was lost in the fall too, so I was paging the device which she couldn't reply. The only thing she didn't lose was her camera, but in the fall it cracked open and the SD card with our group photos on the summit was gone (you have to press it hard to let it out, so it took some impact to do so). By the way, all devices were girth-hitched to the backpack straps with lanyards, so "lost" basically means "torn-out". |
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