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Mt. Rainier 雷尼爾山 - 四千米級的挑戰 2011

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 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-5 22:04:54 | 显示全部楼层
Ended up we're hanging out inside the Paradise Inn to wait out the rain and chill. Bill and Patch came back from the registration office and distributed the Blue Bags.

Use the "Blue Bags" to carry out human waste. They contain one clear bag, one blue bag, and twist ties. To use the "Blue Bag," defecate on the snow away from the climbing route and rest areas. Collect the waste using the light blue bag like a glove. Turn the blue bag inside-out and secure with a twist tie. Place the blue bag in the clear bag and secure with a twist tie.


After almost 80 min and TL decided to start the climb regardless the wet weather. Our destination of this evening was the lower camp from the beaten path. We camped at 1600m West of Alta Vista and at the bottom of Nisqually Glacier.

It was a bless the rain stopped when we're setting up the tents and ready for the evening!

My BD Infinity 60 weighted almost 40 lbs+ with 2 person tent, sleeping bag, stove, climbing gears, c

My BD Infinity 60 weighted almost 40 lbs+ with 2 person tent, sleeping bag, stove, climbing gears, c
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 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-6 08:37:02 | 显示全部楼层
En-route to lower camp in the rain.
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Finally!

Finally!

Setting up the ropes. 4 persons per team.

Setting up the ropes. 4 persons per team.

Time to rope up!

Time to rope up!
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-6 22:58:34 | 显示全部楼层
Day 3 Lower Camp

Woke up with better weather than yesterday! Apparently it rained pretty hard last nite but I was too tired to notice it with ear plugs!

Today we would be practicing the proper use of ice axe, (no self arrest due to the wet weather condition!) Belay techniques.

Hip Belay demo.

Hip Belay demo.
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Lower camp site in the background.

Lower camp site in the background.

Ice Axe on uphill side and rope on the downhill side.

Ice Axe on uphill side and rope on the downhill side.

Heather in her Hip Belay position.

Heather in her Hip Belay position.
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-6 23:25:27 | 显示全部楼层
:wink:

Ulyana and Ania testing out the snow anchor.

Ulyana and Ania testing out the snow anchor.

Sonya is deaf but she has rock climbing experience.

Sonya is deaf but she has rock climbing experience.

Bill is based in Alaska and he is a very experienced guide for Denali and South America Peaks.

Bill is based in Alaska and he is a very experienced guide for Denali and South America Peaks.
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发表于 2011-8-7 03:10:20 | 显示全部楼层
Congrats! Thanks for sharing. Very enjoyed your TR.
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-7 11:39:30 | 显示全部楼层
googoo
Congradulations! 敬仰!


格格
恭喜恭喜,过程很羡慕,PP也很漂亮。


lulululu
Congrats! Thanks for sharing. Very enjoyed your TR.


Thank-you!  :wink:
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-7 11:47:33 | 显示全部楼层
Day 4 Lower Camp - Camp Muir

Today we relocated from lower camp to Camp Muir with all our gears. We're planning to stay there for 2 days and start the summit on Thursday evening. The weather was perfect and setting the stage for the nice summit day.
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The last day on the lower camp. The valley was sunny as you can see but the cloudy was still hanging

The last day on the lower camp. The valley was sunny as you can see but the cloudy was still hanging
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-8 18:00:55 | 显示全部楼层
En-route to Camp Muir.
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Resting at Pebble Creek

Resting at Pebble Creek
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 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-8 19:49:43 | 显示全部楼层
En-route to Camp Muir.  :wink:

Camp Muir finally!

Camp Muir finally!
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Resting on Moon Rocks

Resting on Moon Rocks
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 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-8 20:36:17 | 显示全部楼层
Arrived at Camp Muir  :wink:

The Sunset at Camp Muir.

The Sunset at Camp Muir.

Top down view of our camp site.

Top down view of our camp site.

Cathedral Gap. This is the standard route from Camp Muir - Cowlitz Glacier - Ingraham Flat - DC.

Cathedral Gap. This is the standard route from Camp Muir - Cowlitz Glacier - Ingraham Flat - DC.

My REI Arete ASL 2 tent for this trip.

My REI Arete ASL 2 tent for this trip.

Cowlitz Glacier, Cadaver Gap and Cathedral Rocks in the backdrop.

Cowlitz Glacier, Cadaver Gap and Cathedral Rocks in the backdrop.
发表于 2011-8-8 22:26:01 | 显示全部楼层
nice, thanks for sharing
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-9 19:07:49 | 显示全部楼层
Day 5 Camp Muir

Cam Muir - our base camp for the next two days and today we're practicing How-to Rappeling, Glissading, Self-arrest and Crevasse Rescue.
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Beautiful day.

Beautiful day.

We need to rappel ourself down the crevasse and self rescue back to safety.

We need to rappel ourself down the crevasse and self rescue back to safety.

Bill and Stewart just setup the anchors for crevasse rescue.

Bill and Stewart just setup the anchors for crevasse rescue.

Muir Public Shelter, which will accommodate about 25 people on a first come, first served basis.

Muir Public Shelter, which will accommodate about 25 people on a 
first come, first served basis.
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-9 20:24:37 | 显示全部楼层
Crevasse Rescue
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 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-11 19:37:41 | 显示全部楼层
Glissading and Self-arrest practice.
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Dan leaded the team to assess the slope and snow condition.

Dan leaded the team to assess the slope and snow condition.
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发表于 2011-8-12 08:57:51 | 显示全部楼层
谢谢分享过程!

怪不得看你前一阵在研究炉子等设备,原来是为这个做准备。

等你贴完了再提问。
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-12 22:15:42 | 显示全部楼层
Summit Day

Camp Muir - Cowlitz Glacier - DC - Crater Rim - Columbia Crest

Had a nice dinner around 5ish and went to bed before 6pm. Woke up at 10pm as planned. Everyone roped up and ready to roll by 11:30pm. Headlamp on and ice axe on the side. Weather was perfect! Attempt to summit had begun. We were told to carry tons of food and at least 3L of water.  Pressure Breathe and Rest Step are the key!!

We separated with two teams of 12. Four in one rope team. Total of six rope teams altogether! There were already 2 teams started one hour ahead of us and 3 RMI teams right on our heels. Also had one solo climber to wrap it up!

Stephanie, Patch, Erika and Maryana. Taken before we started the summit.

Stephanie, Patch, Erika and Maryana. Taken before we started the summit.

Resting on top of the DC.

Resting on top of the DC.

Wind picked up big time on top of DC. We put on the down jacket right the way!

Wind picked up big time on top of DC. We put on the down jacket right the way!

Little did we know, dawn had arrived!

Little did we know, dawn had arrived!
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 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-14 13:24:00 | 显示全部楼层
:wink:
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5 seconds later, the whole sky brighten up!

5 seconds later, the whole sky brighten up!
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-14 13:33:27 | 显示全部楼层
:wink:
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发表于 2011-8-15 08:35:39 | 显示全部楼层
虽然开始天气不好,后面是越来越好!后面简直是perfect!

听上去你们去之前并没有集体训练,在5天的爬山过程中边学习,边前进. 那前面就是自己进行体能训练,准备好装备,不够的或不常用的最后再租,是不是?

你们的领队是经常组织,每年要带队登顶几次,还是今年就这一次?

你从神马时候开始报名,准备的?谢谢!
 楼主| 发表于 2011-8-15 15:49:52 | 显示全部楼层
英子
虽然开始天气不好,后面是越来越好!后面简直是perfect!


Yes, it was awesome! I was a bit worry on the first day! Rain rain and more rain!!! Thank God I had the plastic boots!

It was a blessing that the rain stopped when we're pitching the tents on the first nite. Second day was cloudy but not a single drop of rain!

英子
听上去你们去之前并没有集体训练,在5天的爬山过程中边学习,边前进. 那前面就是自己进行体能训练,准备好装备,不够的或不常用的最后再租,是不是?


Yes, we're a bunch of strangers in a strange place!  :wink:

They will provide you the equipments list and you can take it from there. I just rented the plastic boots but I will have some comments on that later on!


英子
你们的领队是经常组织,每年要带队登顶几次,还是今年就这一次?


Dan is busy in Nepal and he does this type of trip only once a year! I met up with him last weekend and he's thinking the Emmons Winthrop route and stay at camp Schurman next year. The camp is less crowdy and less busier than Camp Muir! The Emmons route is a bit longer and steeper but you can stay in the camp for one more nite to recoup!

英子
你从神马时候开始报名,准备的?谢谢!


I registered 3 months prior to the trip!
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