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发表于 2011-8-28 12:15:04
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Dan Mazur
Brief background on our Team Lead Dan Mazur.
SummitClimb
Daniel has been active in climbing the highest peaks of the Himalaya for many years. His personal link with the region and its peoples began in 1986 when he traveled and trekked throughout Tibet and Nepal with friends, then in 1991, joined together with Anatoli Boukreev and friends to ascend Mount Everest followed by 7 of the world's highest 8000 metre peaks, including Everest Tibet , Everest Tibet Training Climb , K2, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Everest Tibet Basecamp Trek and Gasherbrum 1. He has been leading and organizing successful and safe overland, trekking, and mountaineering expeditions for 18 years, to Tibet, Nepal, Tadjikistan, Pakistan, India, China, Africa, and North America.
Daniel Lee Mazur was born in Illinois in October 1960. His family came from Zlotow, Poland, and Bristol, England. As a boy he spent his summers exploring the wilderness waterways of Canada by canoe with a YMCA group. He was an active Boy Scout for many years and was taught to ski by his father Robert. At age 12 his mother Mary started bringing Chinese students home to live in the house, so he learned his first words of Chinese around the dinner table and while doing chores. He first tasted the high peaks at age 17, while a student at the University of Montana, climbing Gunsight Peak and the Sperry Glacier in Glacier National Park.
SummitClimb
Dan Mazur is most widely known for his discovery and assistance in the rescue of Lincoln Hall, an Australian climber on Mount Everest on 25 May 2006. Lincoln Hall had been 'left for dead' by another expedition team the previous day at around 8700m on Everest after collapsing and failing to respond to treatment on the descent from the summit. Mazur and his fellow climbers - Andrew Brash (Canada), Myles Osborne (UK) and Jangbu Sherpa (Nepal) - in abandoning their own attempt on the summit in order to save Hall's life epitomised the noblest traditions of mountaineering. Their sacrifice was underscored by the death of a British climber; David Sharp, who died a few days before Hall, lower down on the same route. Approximately 40 people said they saw Mr. Sharp in distress, and walked past him, but no one rescued David Sharp, and he subsequently died. Sir Edmund Hillary, who made the first ascent of Everest in 1953 with Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, spoke out against those 40 people, and said that nothing like that would have happened in his day.
National Geographic Adventure
...American mountaineer Dan Mazur, 45, came upon a man sitting in the snow at 28,000 feet (8,534 meters) also on the Northeast Ridge, near an outcrop called the Mushroom Rock. It was 7:30 a.m. and the man had obviously been on the mountain all night.
"I imagine you're surprised to see me here," the climber said to Mazur's SummitClimb team. Considering the circumstances, this seemed to be a fairly lucid statement. By now, the man had on neither hat nor gloves. His down suit was unzipped to the waist, his arms out of the sleeves. He had no sleeping bag, no ice ax, no oxygen apparatus, no sunglasses, no food, no water. Unanchored to the mountain, he was sprawled on a cornice, a mere two feet (0.6 meters) from the 8,000-foot (2,438-meter) precipice of the Kangshung Face.
The man turned out to be 50-year-old Lincoln Hall, one of Australia's most experienced Himalaya climbers. The day before, he had reached the summit with a team of Sherpas but developed cerebral edema on the way down. After a desperate struggle to save him, the Sherpas had concluded that he was dead, then, under orders via radio from their team leader, had pushed down to Camp III in the night to save their own lives.
On the morning of May 26, oxygen-starved and still in the hallucinatory grip of edema, Hall was convinced he was on a boat, not a mountain. Salvation, he believed, lay in going overboard, down the Kangshung Face. As British climber Myles Osborne, one of Hall's rescuers, later reported, "He seemed to be in deep distress, shivered uncontrollably, and kept trying to pull himself closer to the edge of the cornice, to the point that we physically held him back and eventually anchored him to the snow."....
Full article from National Geographic Adventure Sept 2006 edition
http://www.nationalgeographic.co ... limbing-season.html |
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发表于 2011-8-28 09:59:54
