Mt. Rainier 雷尼爾山 - 四千米級的挑戰 2011

WanchaiBoz · 发表于 2011-10-8 15:48:26

It was taken on July 29/30, 2011.

Canon D60, f4.0, ISO 6400, 20 second exposure every 25 seconds. Shot from near Sunrise parking lot. Begun at 11:45PM ended 3:05AM

WanchaiBoz · 发表于 2011-10-22 16:02:15

Why Plastic Boot???

Good Boots, Bad Feet

You have heard the stories: bleeding shins, whole foot blisters and something called trench foot. Mountaineering is tough but you didn’t know mauled feet were part of the bargain. Relax, by doing a little homework you can concentrate on bagging that peak and not your aching feet. I offer some advice, which is not exhaustive, but hopefully sheds a little light on the miry world of mountaineering boots. There has been an explosion of boots on the market, including leather and the new hybrid boots.
For the sake of brevity, I want to look at plastic.

Why plastic?

A double plastic boot is the key to keeping your feet warm and dry when it’s cold and wet out on the glacier. The outer plastic shell is a waterproof barrier and protects your feet from getting wet. Plus, maintenance is little to none; you won’t have to worry about putting enough wax on your boots. Plastic boots are equipped with an insulated liner that will keep your feet toasty warm for several seasons without having to be replaced. The liner is removable so you can pull them out and sleep with them at night. This will help to dry them a bit from perspiration and keep them from freezing at night.

Fitting

A proper boot fitting is the most important aspect in buying a pair of boots. When you go shopping, allow yourself plenty of time and find out if any staff has attended clinics by Phil Oren. He is a leading boot fitter that has developed the Fit System, which is the best system to properly fit boots. It is a six-step system that includes: 16 point foot examination, proper sock selection, measurement (both weighted and un-weighted), boot selection, stabilize foot with foot bed and modification where needed.

Customization

After you have been fitted with the proper boot, customization is the final step. The newest product out on the market is custom heat molded liners. One of the most popular liners is from Intuition Sports and is made out of ultralon and comes pre-molded which speeds the customization process. To customize the liners they are heated and placed into boots and then the boots are worn until the liners are cooled. Once the liners are cooled they will hold the shape giving a perfectly customized fit. (see: www.intuitionsports.com)

Repair

Your boots should last a number of seasons even through the hardest abuse. Plastic holds up well to the elements but even good boots wear out. When the soles start to wear thin its time to ship them to Dave Page Cobbler. Dave Page is the world’s finest mountain boot repairer. He is renowned for his repair work on boots (he repairs all boots for REI). His specialty also includes repairing Birkenstocks and resoling athletic shoes.

**The above information on boots was compiled by Alpine Ascents International's Program Manager, Brent LaDoux.**

WanchaiBoz · 发表于 2011-12-10 06:54:20

Disappointment Cleaver route on Google Earth.

WanchaiBoz · 发表于 2013-1-23 06:02:33

Dan is setting up the Winter Climbing School next week. Apply accordingly if you are interested. Info as follow.

Hello, I hope you enjoyed the third week of January and are getting excited for our free of cost Winter Climbing School, Wednesday 30 January, 2013 - Tuesday 5 February, 2013.

Here is what is covered in this newsletter:

A. Application
B. Update from our research trip
C. Location of the school
D. Schedule & dates
E. Arrival instructions
F. Insurance
G. Course activities
H. Equipment
I. Optional gear to bring
J. Snow shoes or skis
K. Renting equipment

Practicing abseiling and ascending on fixed ropes and ice. Roping up as a team to learn safe glacier travel.

A. Will you be joining us, if so, please fill out the "Glacier School Application". In order to find the application, please put your cursor on the Contact/Application button on the upper right of www.SummitClimb.com and then go down to "applications" and then choose the relevant Glacier School application from there. Thank you very much.

B. We just returned from our second research trip and found lots of winter climbing opportunities and are getting excited for your visit. This time we took some photos and are including them in this email. Can you see them?

Potenial glacial area for practicing on what we saw on our recent reconaissance of local spots in Washington.

C. Location of the School:

The winter climbing school is in Washington state, exact location to be determined according to conditions.

D. Schedule of the Course:

CONFIRMED Dates:

Wednesday, 30 January: Arrive Seattle, arrange your own travel to Olympia, Washington. This can be done by shuttle bus service, driving a car, car pooling, etcetera. Sleep at my house in Olympia, Washington.
Thursday, 31 January: In Olympia Washington: Gear Review, Shopping, Packing. Sleep at my house in Olympia, Washington.
Friday, 1 February: Early AM Departure for destination, hike, snow shoe, ski into location, set up camp.
Saturday, 2 Feb: Practice ice, snow climbing, winter camping, avalanche safety, etcetera. Camp.
Sunday, 3 Feb: Practice ice, snow climbing, winter camping, avalanche safety, etcetera. Camp.
Monday, 4 Feb: Exit hike ski, snowshoe out to car, drive back to Olympia, have a party. Sleep at my house in Olympia, Washington.
Tuesday, 5 Feb: Depart Seattle/Olympia, Washington.

Dan and Stewart on our recent reconaissance mission to find out where the ice is in. Our teams roped up and learning safe glacier travel.

E. Arrival instructions: it has been requested that you arrive on Wednesday, 30 January. You are welcome stay in my house in Olympia. There are plenty of couches for you to use, in which you can roll out your sleeping bag. We don't have any extra sleeping bags to share, unfortunately. Please be extremely respectful of the privilege of staying here, and please be very quiet inside and outside of the buildings, as I live here with my young family.. The latest you need to arrive if you wish to stay here is 11:00 p.m. If you wish to arrive later than that, please find other accomodations. Thank you.

By the way, some members prefer to stay in one of our local hotel-motels.

Our house is one mile from the downtown, so a downtown hotel-motel will be best. Here is a site where you could learn more:

http://hotel-guides.us/washington/olympia-wa-hotels.html. We don't have any transport for you between the hotel motel and our house, so you would need to arrange that.

My address is:

2017 East Bay Drive NE
Olympia, WA, 98506

Olympia is located 110 kilometres south of Seattle and 80 Kilometres south of Seattle airport (known as Sea-Tac, SEA). You will need to provide your own transportation throughout the Winter Climbing School. This includes getting to and from Olympia and the airport. You can rent a car, take a shuttle van, share a ride with other school participants, etcetera.

It's very easy to find my house, a few miles straight off of the major I-5 highway that runs north-south between Seattle and Portland. Once you reach Olympia, just exit at "Port of Olympia" then slowly and carefully follow signs for "Port of Olympia", then continue on Plum Street, driving straight north on Plum, which becomes East Bay Drive. There are big black numbers on a white signboard nailed to the fence in front of my house, on your left.

You can park on the street. If you need directions, please refer to a map website such as yahoo maps or mapquest. Here is a link to our house from mapquest:

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map ... S&addtohist
ory=&searchtab=home&formtype=address&popflag=0&latitude=&longitude=&name=&ph
one=&level=&cat=&address=2017+East+Bay+Drive+NE&city=&state=&zipcode=98506

I will carry my phone with me at all times, and it is: 360-570-0715. If you reach the answering machine, it might be because Washington is still a very rural place and I am outside of the coverage area. Please always leave a message on the answering machine, with your call-back number (be sure to carry your mobile/cell phone if you have one).

I will be out of town climbing all day on Wednesday, but should arrive back in Olympia before midnight on Wednesday night, 30 January. Come on inside and make yourselves at home anyway. We will leave tea making facilities out for you, so go ahead make yourself a cup if you like.

Please use the bathroom in the basement, not in the top floor. Thank you.

You won't be cooking or eating any food here, as there are too many of us, you will be buying all of your meals at local restaurants. There are restaurants in the center of town within 30 minutes walk of the house.

The course will officially start at 8:30am on Thursday morning, 31 January, when everyone wakes up, has a wash, and we walk or drive to a neighborhood cafe, sitting down to breakfast by 9am. During breakfast, Dan will present an orientation, we will have a discussion, and you will complete the required paperwork.

By 10:30 am, we will be back at the house, and everyone will spread their gear out in the garage and we will look at everything and compile a list of what is needed, then we will drive and visit a few mountaineering equipment shops, where you can purchase/hire what you need.

We will be back in Olympia late that evening, and set off for the mountain on Friday morning. The grocery stores here are open 24 hours, so it is no problem to buy grocery-store food at anytime. Normally we purchase our food on Friday morning at a large grocery store at the same time as we put final fuel in the cars.

F. Insurance is Required:

YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE **MANDATORY** SPECIAL INSURANCE FOR THE CLIMB. IT COSTS ABOUT $60. PLEASE CONTACT MARCIE AT: 206-633-5000, MOhlinger@statravel.com .

Please bring your proof of insurance with you and show it to me before our departure. Thanks.

G. Suggested Activities of the Course:

1. Snow cave/igloo construction;
2. Snow camping and cooking;
3. Self arrest technique;
4. GPS, map and compass;
5. Avalanche detection and practice;
6. Route finding;
7. Roped glacier travel;
8. Snow belay techniques;
9. Ice and snow climbing;
10. What other activities would you like to practice?

H. Equipment.

Please bring the equipment from the www.SeattleGlacierSchool.org website, here is the link: http://summitclimb.com/new/defau ... =y&prid=723 .

The above link is a bit long so, in case the link is "broken" please be sure you have cut and pasted the entire long link into your browser. Thanks

I. Optional gear to bring: if you have things that are not on the personal equipment list like stoves, tents, avalanche beacons, shovels, ice climbing protection (pickets, screws, etcetera), please feel free to bring them and test them out. Otherwise we will have all the necessary group gear for the team.

J. Please note: In addition to the eqipment mentioned above, please also bring mountain touring skiis or snowshoes, thanks.

K. Don't have the necessary equipment? Please just come here to Olympia and rent or buy it locally!

What else can you think of?

I look forward to chatting, meeting, and to climbing together with you during the winter climbing school. Thank you very much. Welcome to Our Team and Best Mountain Regards!

-Dan Mazur

Email: Dan@SummitClimb.com and Dan@SummitTrek.com ;

Telephone: 1-360-570-0715 (please leave a message in case I am out climbing and walking);

Web: www.SummitClimb.com and www.SummitTrek.com ;

lulululu · 发表于 2013-1-23 08:21:43

WanchaiBoz
Dan is setting up the Winter Climbing School next week. Apply accordingly if you are interested. Info as follow.

Hello, I hope you enjoyed the third week of January and are getting excited for our free of cost Winter Climbing School, Wednesday 30 January, 2013 - Tuesday 5 February, 2013.

Here is what is covered in this newsletter:

A. Application
B. Update from our research trip
C. Location of the school
D. Schedule & dates
E. Arrival instructions
F. Insurance
G. Course activities
H. Equipment
I. Optional gear to bring
J. Snow shoes or skis
K. Renting equipment

Practicing abseiling and ascending on fixed ropes and ice. Roping up as a team to learn safe glacier travel.

A. Will you be joining us, if so, please fill out the "Glacier School Application". In order to find the application, please put your cursor on the Contact/Application button on the upper right of www.SummitClimb.com and then go down to "applications" and then choose the relevant Glacier School application from there. Thank you very much.

B. We just returned from our second research trip and found lots of winter climbing opportunities and are getting excited for your visit. This time we took some photos and are including them in this email. Can you see them?

Potenial glacial area for practicing on what we saw on our recent reconaissance of local spots in Washington.

C. Location of the School:

The winter climbing school is in Washington state, exact location to be determined according to conditions.

D. Schedule of the Course:

CONFIRMED Dates:

Wednesday, 30 January: Arrive Seattle, arrange your own travel to Olympia, Washington. This can be done by shuttle bus service, driving a car, car pooling, etcetera. Sleep at my house in Olympia, Washington.
Thursday, 31 January: In Olympia Washington: Gear Review, Shopping, Packing. Sleep at my house in Olympia, Washington.
Friday, 1 February: Early AM Departure for destination, hike, snow shoe, ski into location, set up camp.
Saturday, 2 Feb: Practice ice, snow climbing, winter camping, avalanche safety, etcetera. Camp.
Sunday, 3 Feb: Practice ice, snow climbing, winter camping, avalanche safety, etcetera. Camp.
Monday, 4 Feb: Exit hike ski, snowshoe out to car, drive back to Olympia, have a party. Sleep at my house in Olympia, Washington.
Tuesday, 5 Feb: Depart Seattle/Olympia, Washington.

Dan and Stewart on our recent reconaissance mission to find out where the ice is in. Our teams roped up and learning safe glacier travel.

E. Arrival instructions: it has been requested that you arrive on Wednesday, 30 January. You are welcome stay in my house in Olympia. There are plenty of couches for you to use, in which you can roll out your sleeping bag. We don't have any extra sleeping bags to share, unfortunately. Please be extremely respectful of the privilege of staying here, and please be very quiet inside and outside of the buildings, as I live here with my young family.. The latest you need to arrive if you wish to stay here is 11:00 p.m. If you wish to arrive later than that, please find other accomodations. Thank you.

By the way, some members prefer to stay in one of our local hotel-motels.

Our house is one mile from the downtown, so a downtown hotel-motel will be best. Here is a site where you could learn more:

http://hotel-guides.us/washington/olympia-wa-hotels.html. We don't have any transport for you between the hotel motel and our house, so you would need to arrange that.

My address is:

2017 East Bay Drive NE
Olympia, WA, 98506

Olympia is located 110 kilometres south of Seattle and 80 Kilometres south of Seattle airport (known as Sea-Tac, SEA). You will need to provide your own transportation throughout the Winter Climbing School. This includes getting to and from Olympia and the airport. You can rent a car, take a shuttle van, share a ride with other school participants, etcetera.

It's very easy to find my house, a few miles straight off of the major I-5 highway that runs north-south between Seattle and Portland. Once you reach Olympia, just exit at "Port of Olympia" then slowly and carefully follow signs for "Port of Olympia", then continue on Plum Street, driving straight north on Plum, which becomes East Bay Drive. There are big black numbers on a white signboard nailed to the fence in front of my house, on your left.

You can park on the street. If you need directions, please refer to a map website such as yahoo maps or mapquest. Here is a link to our house from mapquest:

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map ... S&addtohist
ory=&searchtab=home&formtype=address&popflag=0&latitude=&longitude=&name=&ph
one=&level=&cat=&address=2017+East+Bay+Drive+NE&city=&state=&zipcode=98506

I will carry my phone with me at all times, and it is: 360-570-0715. If you reach the answering machine, it might be because Washington is still a very rural place and I am outside of the coverage area. Please always leave a message on the answering machine, with your call-back number (be sure to carry your mobile/cell phone if you have one).

I will be out of town climbing all day on Wednesday, but should arrive back in Olympia before midnight on Wednesday night, 30 January. Come on inside and make yourselves at home anyway. We will leave tea making facilities out for you, so go ahead make yourself a cup if you like.

Please use the bathroom in the basement, not in the top floor. Thank you.

You won't be cooking or eating any food here, as there are too many of us, you will be buying all of your meals at local restaurants. There are restaurants in the center of town within 30 minutes walk of the house.

The course will officially start at 8:30am on Thursday morning, 31 January, when everyone wakes up, has a wash, and we walk or drive to a neighborhood cafe, sitting down to breakfast by 9am. During breakfast, Dan will present an orientation, we will have a discussion, and you will complete the required paperwork.

By 10:30 am, we will be back at the house, and everyone will spread their gear out in the garage and we will look at everything and compile a list of what is needed, then we will drive and visit a few mountaineering equipment shops, where you can purchase/hire what you need.

We will be back in Olympia late that evening, and set off for the mountain on Friday morning. The grocery stores here are open 24 hours, so it is no problem to buy grocery-store food at anytime. Normally we purchase our food on Friday morning at a large grocery store at the same time as we put final fuel in the cars.

F. Insurance is Required:

YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE **MANDATORY** SPECIAL INSURANCE FOR THE CLIMB. IT COSTS ABOUT $60. PLEASE CONTACT MARCIE AT: 206-633-5000, MOhlinger@statravel.com .

Please bring your proof of insurance with you and show it to me before our departure. Thanks.

G. Suggested Activities of the Course:

1. Snow cave/igloo construction;
2. Snow camping and cooking;
3. Self arrest technique;
4. GPS, map and compass;
5. Avalanche detection and practice;
6. Route finding;
7. Roped glacier travel;
8. Snow belay techniques;
9. Ice and snow climbing;
10. What other activities would you like to practice?

H. Equipment.

Please bring the equipment from the www.SeattleGlacierSchool.org website, here is the link: http://summitclimb.com/new/defau ... =y&prid=723 .

The above link is a bit long so, in case the link is "broken" please be sure you have cut and pasted the entire long link into your browser. Thanks

I. Optional gear to bring: if you have things that are not on the personal equipment list like stoves, tents, avalanche beacons, shovels, ice climbing protection (pickets, screws, etcetera), please feel free to bring them and test them out. Otherwise we will have all the necessary group gear for the team.

J. Please note: In addition to the eqipment mentioned above, please also bring mountain touring skiis or snowshoes, thanks.

K. Don't have the necessary equipment? Please just come here to Olympia and rent or buy it locally!

What else can you think of?

I look forward to chatting, meeting, and to climbing together with you during the winter climbing school. Thank you very much. Welcome to Our Team and Best Mountain Regards!

-Dan Mazur

Email: Dan@SummitClimb.com and Dan@SummitTrek.com ;

Telephone: 1-360-570-0715 (please leave a message in case I am out climbing and walking);

Web: www.SummitClimb.com and www.SummitTrek.com ;

Thanks for sharing, I wish I had time to go.

jsolder · 发表于 2013-1-24 10:45:14

以你的实力，上去决没有问题。在好天气周期，从山下出发登顶再回到山下，应该2天就能搞定！

hello_kitty · 发表于 2013-1-24 10:56:55

I want to go to Rainier too.
Hope someone will organize the trip.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2013-1-24 12:06:30

hello_kitty
I want to go to Rainier too.
Hope someone will organize the trip.

If this is not a joke, I may be willing to provide you some essential (but not complete) training/advice, this may include eventual alpine trip to summit of mt.Baker via tourist route (Roman Wall), yet I don't have any plans to go Rainer any time soon. To be serious, you will need to start from passing a belay test in local climbing gym. 8)

ALEXYIM · 发表于 2013-1-24 12:10:06

不要少看這個山, 每年也有一, 两個因意外而死亡的.

hello_kitty · 发表于 2013-1-24 12:32:10

PanShiBo
[quote]hello_kitty
I want to go to Rainier too.
Hope someone will organize the trip.

If this is not a joke, I may be willing to provide you some essential (but not complete) training/advice, this may include eventual alpine trip to summit of mt.Baker via tourist route (Roman Wall), yet I don't have any plans to go Rainer any time soon. To be serious, you will need to start from passing a belay test in local climbing gym. 8)[/quote]

Thank you for your suggestions. I haven't done any research for Rainier. I just saw many people went there, i thought it might be not that hard. Sorry, I am not that serious, as you mentioned, probably i am not ready for it for a while. The trips I am interested in are not much challenging and risk, but good view and enough exercise.
Any trip I will go for it when i completely ready and confident. That's important to me and my family.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2013-1-24 12:58:35

hello_kitty
..Any trip I will go for it when i completely ready and confident. That's important to me and my family.

Exactly. That was my initial concern and confusion, as consequences of an accident on such a trip can be very serious, especially for the loved ones. Alpine mostly attracts non-family types ( = 屌丝 ? ).

hello_kitty · 发表于 2013-1-24 13:02:39

PanShiBo
[quote]hello_kitty
..Any trip I will go for it when i completely ready and confident. That's important to me and my family.

Exactly. That was my initial concern and confusion, as consequences of an accident on such a trip can be very serious, especially for the loved ones. Alpine mostly attracts non-family types ( = 屌丝 ? ).[/quote]

Thanks! Your comments and suggestions are always valuable.
We are lucky to have you in our hiking club.

马赛克 · 发表于 2013-1-25 17:29:36

good job Rick

thanks for sharing!

panolover · 发表于 2013-1-25 17:42:36

PanShiBo
[quote]hello_kitty
..Any trip I will go for it when i completely ready and confident. That's important to me and my family.

Exactly. That was my initial concern and confusion, as consequences of an accident on such a trip can be very serious, especially for the loved ones. Alpine mostly attracts non-family types ( = 屌丝 ? ).[/quote]

博士居然知道屌丝这个词 :yipe: :smcf:

那听说过钻石王老五吗？ :sm60: :smb0:

		自动登录	找回密码
密码			注册