The route ahead of us is graded AD- (harder than"slightly difficult" but easier than "fairly difficult") e.g. Garibaldi NE Face - which "was steep". With 12 successful technical alpine trips on Vera's resume, will this one be a success too? I have attempted this route three times in the past and failed twice! 8)
Keith's Hut is probably the best of this kind ( and Mt. Rainier camp Muir's is the worst ). This floor will be filled with sleeping bodies of backcountry skiers in the early morning, which we will have to step over to sort our climbing gear and cook breakfast. 8)
离开木屋上升后不久，博士就停下来了，干什么？测量雪地的温度！从木屋到山顶，拔高约1000米，这样也可以估计出山上的温度来。一看，零下好几度呢，博士很高兴，说太好了，这就是他要的，他说，“Nothing makes an alpine climber happier than cold weather!"因为作为经验丰富的领队，对安全的考虑是他的本能。(唉，要学的东西太多了！）
Although it may seem that lead climber does most of hard work breaking the trail, it is not true - life of the second is constant struggle with trailing rope and keeping her balance with only one hand carrying ice axe. 8)
Break time at Matier-Joffre col. No sun and rather cold - exactly what we need. 8)
可不行啊，办不了也得办啊！一个ice-axe完全插下去，不巧的时候，它都不给力，hold不住，只好再换一个尽可能远的地方插下去，然后把它当成anchor把自己拽上去（臂力在此很有用，因为除了你自己，还有背包的重量），再后来看到高处的博士时而将双镐插入后甩动几下双臂，一定是胳膊太累了. . . . . .就这样不知过了多少步，有一两次偶尔停下来时，我偷偷地回望，看远处的山景可以，往下看则太吓人，看了都晕，不知道自己是怎么上来的。跟博士一说，他就说，回头往下看，”not a good idea!"（这可是经验之谈哦，最好记住它）
Passing Joffre Peak, seen at the back with prominent Aussie Couloir - we climbed it almost exactly one year ago. Today we will be higher than Joffre's summit. 8)
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发表于 2016-3-15 20:21:03
