Some photos

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-8-27 13:46:32

本帖最后由 PanShiBo 于 2018-9-1 06:46 编辑

2018 08 25 Red Lake Peak (3,067m) & Steven's Peak (3,066m), Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, California

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Gaining Red Lake Peak (3,067m)

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CCS, just below Red Lake Peak (3,067m)

.Downclimbing standard route (class 3). If you don't know the exact line, it's very easy to immediately get onclass 5 (which we did).

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CCS at Steven's Peak

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-1 06:32:11

本帖最后由 PanShiBo 于 2018-9-1 07:50 编辑

2018.08.29 California Climbers' Salute (in California!). On the summit of Mt. Whitney (4,421 m), the highest summit in the contiguous United States. See trip report here: http://bit.ly/2ouZXPz

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-1 08:26:41

本帖最后由 PanShiBo 于 2018-9-1 08:38 编辑

2018.08.29 Mt. Whitney (cont'd)

After having climbed ~250 peaks (in five years) together, some high, some low, some easy, some very hard, in all seasons in many different areas, we still don't understand the concept of so called "alpine start" - we keep asking everybody who does that, but don't get anywhere except "because everyone else does it". There is no glaciers to cross on Mt. Whitney, neither is there rockfall or snow (another question is why people go climb snow in summer, when winter is the proper time for it - it is snow afterall!). Whitney standard route is class 1 tourist trail, well marked and well maintained, all the way to the top. Why bother to start at midnight, sleep-deprived, walk like a zombie in the darkness? Why not instead have a good rest and start at sunrise? .
PHOTO: 7 minutes on the trail, moon is setting, sun is rising. Mt. Whitney is at the far back.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-1 08:59:03

本帖最后由 PanShiBo 于 2018-9-1 09:31 编辑

2018.08.29 Mt. Whitney (cont'd)

After staying in Lake Tahoe area (five 3K peaks climbed in great blue-sky weather), unexpected visit to an American hospital's emergency room (with a bill of "just" $2,400 USD) and a failed approach of White Mountain (need HC 4x4 vehicle, certainly not Toyota Matrix), we drove south. We skipped our PLAN-A destinations, Virginia Lakes and Yosemite NP, because of depressing thick forest-fire smoke. Then Vera asked me exactly what I was thinking at the moment (真的高山流水是不是？) - why not climb Mt. Whitney, 单攻 style. Why not!? We have already climbed Mountaineering route and backpacked the tourist trail, so this time let's do it in one day. ( I now really think this trail is the best day-hike ever. ) So we set out car GPS to familiar to us Lone Pine's Visitors Center - we have been there already twice.

PHOTO: Typical granite walls of High Sierra. From Mt. Whitney trail. Blue skies, forest-fire smokeless..

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-3 16:53:03

本帖最后由 PanShiBo 于 2018-9-3 16:55 编辑

2018.08.29 Mt. Whitney (cont'd)

At the high altitudes, you will be a lot faster when you walk slowly. If you run, you might never make it. We made 10km in exactly 3 hours to the altitude of 3,700m above sea level.

PHOTO: At the Trail Camp (3,700 m) with Mt. Muir (4,273 m) at the back (climbed 2016-08-04).

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-4 08:56:21

2018.08.29 Mt. Whitney (cont'd)

I personally beleive that Mt. Whitney trail is the world-best day hike. But, as always, opinions may vary. :)

PHOTOs: At the top of Mt. Whitney (4,421 m)..

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PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-6 15:09:19

2018.09.05 California Climbers' Salute @ Mt. Shuksan, WA

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-6 16:42:21

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

Mount Shuksan, WA must be climbed even only because it belongs to the infamous top-ten Peaks with most Unsuccessful Attempts.

PHOTO: Climbers on Sulphide Glacier, as seen from the summit.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-6 17:00:12

本帖最后由 PanShiBo 于 2018-9-6 17:17 编辑

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

The standard route (mid face) is furnished with rap stations every 30m, so one can rappel from the very top all the way down. Which we did - took us ~7 minutes per person per rap on average. :)

PHOTO: Mt. Shuksan as seen from Sulphide Glacier. At the base can be seen 12 climbers approaching rock face, all commercial (IMG and RMI) - we will catch them on the mountain. Surpise - no alpine start (anymore?!), even for the guided trips!

vera · 发表于 2018-9-6 20:12:28

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

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vera · 发表于 2018-9-7 05:17:00

本帖最后由 vera 于 2018-9-7 05:34 编辑

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

Mt Shuksan, 我知道这座山，缘起于bcmc的帖子：去年、今年，一直很流行，似乎是俱乐部的经典trip. 但多变的天气，结果常常是cancelled...... 这些大大增加了我的好奇心，便开始时不时地问问博士，看他是否有意向。

夏天到了，岩石干了，是攀岩的季节，或者对我们来说，就希望优先选择可以和攀岩结合起来的登山，这样，Shuksan倒是符合这些条件的：它混和了glacier travel, rock climbing, scrambling, steep snow, ice，backpacking ... 你想要什么结果，自己搭配就行，总有相应的路线符合你的要求。

怎么样，博士，去吗？"这个有glacier travel, 我们最好利用夏天练习alpine rock." 好啊，我们就去Class 2-3 (往往能走到Class 4), 所以有了Eiffel, Nigel, Pugh, Round Top... 这一系列令人难忘的行程。

八月中，秋天快到了，Shuksan的天气似乎不错啊，我们去吗？"Smoky, view不好，去干嘛？又不是为了爬山而爬山，enjoy才重要。"

就这样，一而再、再而三，9月开始了。4号早晨，一封邮件悄然而至: " 想去Shuksan吗？这两天天气不错。" Wow!! 我立马回复：想！当然想去啦！什么时候见？(生怕错过了回复的截止时间:万一有呢？反正越快越好)

在博士发来gear list之前，我就开始思想上准备了(不主动是不行的，时间紧张), 并且把要带的陆续放进车里，以免忘记。(宁愿多带，因为一般到了TH，还会做最后调整)

1100, 出门。接上博士。1200, 完全按照博士的设定时间，准时启动了车：我们要开往Shuksan! 我在心里默默祈祷：Shuksan, Shuksan, 你的机会终于到了，这是你的舞台，我们是你的观众，请让我们欣赏到一个充满魅力的你吧！
.PHOTO: Sunrise from our camp site.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-7 05:30:32

本帖最后由 PanShiBo 于 2018-9-7 05:32 编辑

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

Getting used to a brand new pair of alpine boots. The 75L expedition backpack is new too.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-7 07:07:34

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

Recording her 247th peak, in the summit register of Mount Shuksan, WA.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-7 07:49:57

本帖最后由 PanShiBo 于 2018-9-7 07:56 编辑

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

Mt. Shuksan's standard route offers a very rich set of moderate but sustained mountaineering challenges: good (~8km/1,200m-gain) approach, glacier travel, backpacking, low-angle solid rock (~200m) and snow. Alpine multi-pitch rappel is included too!

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-7 08:46:26

本帖最后由 PanShiBo 于 2018-9-7 08:50 编辑

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

Ideal camping spot: a small rock platform at 1,980m. Rather private too. A pool of fresh melted water just step away. Climbers from commercial tents upper up had to climb down the snow to collect it from the stream. We found it by accident (or by intuition), in the dark, with our headlights on.
PHOTO: Our brand-new tent (we like it better than MSR HubbaHubba).

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-7 12:51:04

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

This crevasse looks pretty cute, however, you don't want to be anywhere near here in a whiteout. Or just after a fresh (first of the season) snowfall.

PHOTO: Sulphide Glacier, by Vera

vera · 发表于 2018-9-7 14:07:22

本帖最后由 vera 于 2018-9-7 15:00 编辑

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

Day 3 - sunrise as seen from our tent.

vera · 发表于 2018-9-7 14:57:46

本帖最后由 vera 于 2018-9-7 15:13 编辑

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd
就在bcmc风风火火谈论着 Shuksan的时候(当时我也报了一个，故可静观论坛讨论)，趁着那热度，我就开始搜罗trip reports, 看得头晕脑胀，routes不少，但是大多集中在chimney. 看来看去，除了天气(天最大，没有第二), 觉得不能掌控的地方还有：一是许可证。由于这样组织的活动几乎都在周末，如果又逢好天，那这条抢手的路线是scramble者们争先恐后要得到的，可是营地有限，最佳好像是在Chimney的上面露营，这样对第二天登顶有利。但是很多TR里都提及因为得不到这样的permit, 不得不另择他处，这样summit day 就会很漫长(>14hrs )，而人在心累体累时都更容易犯错。二是这条路线因为牵涉到绳降，多个TR里说到要排队等待，有时会等很久，这样就会完全打破你原来的时间表，搞得你措手不及。

即便这样，作为报名者，也只能追随或者放弃。当时组织者还在国外，周六大早的trip, 周五晚才回来，另外该领队还没有下好的GPS, 加上天气恶劣，太不靠谱，所以我就先撤了。(后来敌不过老天，the organizer finally cancelled the trip at the last minute. 哈哈，我撤得英明！)

一波三折、好事多磨的Shuksan, 就是这么折腾人，只见几个帖子是改了又改，延了又延，还是难以成行，最后可能落得个明年再见。

因着这些经历，我在周一( 09.03)就摸底地打了电话给Ranger station, 对方说sulphide route 在weekdays没问题, 目前只有2 sites 有人用(total 6)。机会是留给有准备的人！第二天博士的邮件就到了，问的信息还真安定人心。

曾在微软工作的博士，最好什么都要compute, 计划好时间，我们约下午2点到了70miles 处的Sedro-woolley Ranger Station(我第一次看到两层楼的！这么大!) 当然，没有任何悬念地得到了permit, 保险起见，我们申请了2 nights at high camp.

一切顺利，唯有一事意外：我们没准备防熊桶！可以借，但是必须在0800-1600的工作时间内归还，不能drop off. 否则会在你的信用卡里扣90块。这就意味着如果我们第二天登顶，必须3点前返回TH, 也就是说1200前就要从营地下撤，否则根本还不了桶。

开什么玩笑？这样赶着爬山还有意思吗？不行，我们肯定不干！即便下山了，也不可能那么早。最后，我卸了博士的包袱：no worries, 我们该怎样就怎样，大不了我后天来这里还桶，还可以借此再游一下美国，逛逛Costco什么的，也不错。

事后证明：三天两夜的准备，PERFECT!

PHOTO: Class 3, sustained, ~200m up.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2018-9-7 16:19:42

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

Testing the new 75L expedition backpack, with 43lb of gear, 38% of the effective body mass. Over ~8km, ~1,200m up. Not counting 5lb insulated alpine boots. It's our comfortable regular summer weight, in winter would be a bit heavier.
.PHOTO: On Shannon Ridge.

vera · 发表于 2018-9-7 17:56:15

2018.09.05 Mount Shuksan, WA - cont'd

从ranger station到Shannon Ridge TH, 40miles, 开车要1小时，其中有几英里的FSR, 但是不算太糟，Matrix还可以应付(以后就难说了). 但是这样颠颠簸簸，睡意油然而生，我们二人不约而同："到了TH, 必须nap一下！"

小睡，精神就来了，铺好tarp(车内专门用来整理gear的), 开始最后的打包。熊桶就挺重，体积也不小，没办法，试着精简，最后过磅：我的43lb, 博士的48lb, 不轻，但也属于正常的。按照博士的格言：安全有关的gear, 绝不能short cut. Too heavy? Then ALPINE is NOT for YOU! Go home, or do sth else! （好尖刻啊，不中听吧？不过，在理！）

1645hr, 我们正式走向trail. 晚吗？嗯，反正不早。到营地约8km, 拔高1000多米，向导公司在网上公布的itinerary都写的是需要5~6小时，这样算来，我们是晚了。但是，我们不是customer, 应该会快一些，虽然是重装，但争取天黑赶到也并非不可能。那就试一试？好，走起！

山路是意想不到的好。前面的4km, 与Garibaldi 湖的有得一比。后来即便有些树根，但也绝不像Wedgemount Lake的trail那样令你抱怨。平缓上升，一直到绿葱葱的铺满草甸的山脊，此刻，快要日落，Baker就在你的左边，似乎伸手可及，这是特别舒心的一段。然后向右横切，踩着石块，绕过前方的山体，几百米后，再沿石坡右上，此刻天色渐暗，一个雪坡到了。感谢我的新鞋子，一脚下去，硬得给我安心，全然没有slip的感觉，虽然雪很硬，但是我没有像二探Spindle那样紧张得我第二步都迈不出去(博士结果采用了snow pickets 来running belay), 而是一步一步、踏踏实实地走了过去(这个体验，现在想着还叫我开心)。

几段雪坡过了，天黑了，岩石中的trail模糊起来，我们戴上了头灯，几分钟后，又是一个较陡的雪坡！(对于没穿冰爪的我们，感觉并不安全) 走了几步，博士退了回来，看着我的脚下: 也许我们可以在这里露营！

耶，这是我当时最想听到的话！！我们都不喜欢在夜色里行走，如果可以避免，那一定敬而远之。我们配合默契，不用说话就知道自己该做什么，很快，我就在温暖的被窝里舒服地坐着。水在哪里？wow, 就在帐篷的边上！(早晨看到这个tarn, 我吃惊死了)

我准备mountain house, 博士也烧开了水。太棒了，很快，热乎乎的美味温暖着我们的胃，天上的星星也亮起来。"我看到了牛奶的河！" ---- 嘿，你可以文学一点吗？那叫银河！不叫牛奶的河！！(我真被他打败了，乐翻了我！)

第二天日出后醒来，才深刻地体会到我们的营地是多么地超级棒！绝佳！！
PHOTO: Sulphide Glacier as seen from the summit of Mt. Shuksan, WA

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